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by zeepia » 17 Dec 2012 10:51
Wanted to ask you first before I grab my dremel and grind it open... Here are all the pin stacks removed:  Now the plug turns but there is big torque needed at the beginning of the turn. To help my picking practices I would like to make it smoother or take it away, so I need to open this cylinder. But.  It´s made solid, at least it looks like it. Is there a way to open this without destroying it?
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by lockr » 17 Dec 2012 12:59
Just curious, but could the driver at the back be acting as a retainer of some sort?
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by Squelchtone » 17 Dec 2012 13:16
Is there a way to pry off the brass cap that keeps the tailpiece from falling out of the plug?
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by zeepia » 17 Dec 2012 13:32
Prying is not an option, it destroys the brass cap which continues below the tail piece. The tail piece is put there last. 
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by zeke79 » 17 Dec 2012 14:19
If the pins are out and it still requires a lot of torque then the sidebar groove in the plug is likely gummy/dirty. If you can't take it apart without destroying it then try flushing it with spray brake cleaner until it turns easier and then lubricate lightly.
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by spandexwarrior » 18 Dec 2012 8:23
Not sure about getting it open but that additional force you need to first turn the plug is because the sidebar is being pushed back into the housing. It might still need cleaned and lubed but it will always feel different than a standard pin tumbler lock as long as the sidebar is in place.
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by SnowyBoy » 18 Dec 2012 21:20
That's just a cap isn't it? The normal plate with 2 screws should be behind it. Never seen this... not least a Medeco Oval 
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by zeepia » 18 Dec 2012 23:22
Thank you all for suggestions, guess I take my dremel and cut that brass cap off. But definitely that tail piece is put there last, therefore I don´t believe there are any screws under it. When I cut it in half, I maybe need to improvise something to keep it closed. I was hoping for the miracle answer, maybe from inside of the keyway. But NOT while standing in the tub of cold water, not liking it I find it weird that this lock´s sidebar can´t be repaired if something goes wrong. The reason I want to take it away is that it´s rather stiff in the beginning, lifting the sidebar off the groove. Much more torque needed than for example in Assa Twin. I would like to practise with this lock also with only pins inside because I don´t have other Medecos to play with. I´ll tell you how it went.
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by MBI » 19 Dec 2012 2:16
If you can't find a way to remove the tailpiece non-destructively that is installed over the cap... As Mr. Spandex suggested, try cleaning it before something drastic like taking a dremel to it.
Soak it in a cup of solvent or light oil to loosen any stubborn crud, then once you've done that put the key in and turn it around a few times. Dunk it in solvent again, do that a couple more times.
Then flush it out really thoroughly with a degreaser like brake cleaner. Alternating between flushing it, and turning it to make sure you're freeing up any tapped grit.
Once you think it's clean, lightly lube it. The factory recommends Medeco lube, which is basically a blend of aerosol solvents as carriers, with finely powdered teflon powder in it. Once the solvent dries, it leaves the Teflon behind to lubricate the lock. You can see the white residue if you look in the keyway of a brand new Medeco. There are other similar commercial solvents out there which are similar if you can't find Medeco lube. If you can't find or can't spend the funds on that, just lube it with a very light Silicone lock lubricant, like LPS or something.
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by femurat » 19 Dec 2012 4:07
 Maybe the tailpiece is shaped like this and can be simply pulled out with pliers? Cheers 
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by zeepia » 19 Dec 2012 10:06
That tail piece isn´t coming off just by pulling it, at least not easily. I might give it another try.
I just heard that I´m receiving another Medeco lock next year so maybe I´ll leave this undestroyed. Thanks Gordon!
I think the sidebar isn´t so dirty but it´s just the nature of this lock to be so stiff at the beginning.
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by atticRR » 21 Dec 2012 22:48
have yo utried unscrewing the brass cap? maybe using channel lock pliers (or vise grips)? the brass piece must rotate with the plug and the plug has to come out the front, hmmm.....
looking at the picture of the front of the lock got me thinking, perhaps while rotating 360 degrees you will ;come across a slot that allows the sidebar to escape? probably not, but you would be able to see it from the 'bottom' of the key way. it has to be the brass cap really, did you try turning it 90 deg and really giving it a good firm push from the rear?
sorry about the rambling, i was sort of thinking as i was typing. I also have 1 medeco so i fully understand being hesitant to use excessive force. i also hate not being to figure out how to dis assemble something, drives me nuts. really looking forward to finding out how this shakes out.
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by Capt_Tom » 4 Jan 2013 11:48
Have you tried to push it through with the cap and tailpiece left on it?
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by zeepia » 5 Jan 2013 7:16
 Like Femurat suggested, it was shaped so that it could be pulled off. Or more closely, it could be pried off, pulling wasn´t enough. I almost hadn´t guts to use so much force but one must live dangerous sometimes Thanks all for your help!
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by lockr » 5 Jan 2013 13:32
zeepia wrote:Like Femurat suggested, it was shaped so that it could be pulled off. Or more closely, it could be pried off, pulling wasn´t enough. I almost hadn´t guts to use so much force but one must live dangerous sometimes 
That's awesome, glad you were able to get it apart.. now I'll know what to do if I encounter one of those cylinders! 
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