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by Teddy Picker » 23 Nov 2012 23:15
In the spirit of the pick preference thread: what's your go-to tensioning tool? Or, if you could have only one tensioning tool, what would you choose?
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by Altashot » 23 Nov 2012 23:47
I have a total of 7 tension wrenches. My go-to is my heaviest one. Thick and un-bendable it can operate a deadbolt or flip up Adams Rite. Close second, my lightest one. It's long and flimsy, I can bend it however I want to fit where my heavy one wont.
M.
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by GWiens2001 » 24 Nov 2012 0:36
Depends on the lock I intend to open. Most quick and easy pin tumblers, I grab a wiper blade tenesioner that is bent inn both ends, each end about 3/4 to 1" long, used in More difficult used at EOK.
More difficult locks, another set if tenioners thin to about 3/6", bent short enough to sit at Tok without touching the to pins
Smalller locks, smaller tensioner.
Big locks with heavy clinder covers, heavier return sprigs, out come the big guns. A couple of heavy, double ended tension wrench set (two of then) , each end just about 1/2 pin longer than the other side. These are quite strong,
Gordon
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by catsoup » 24 Nov 2012 4:13
Its usually a pretty obvious choice depending on the keyway/lock.
I tend to go for standard right-angle bends over twisted wrenches though.
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by Solomon » 24 Nov 2012 11:58
For euro cylinders I generally use one of the peterson flat 5 set. There are 3 variations, 2 are pairs in different thicknesses. Depends on the keyway which one I go for. I never really bother with the flimsy ones, not even for raking.
For rim cylinders I prefer to use bottom of keyway tension so I tend to use standard HPC wrenches on those. If I have to use TOK then I'll use one of the flats, but only if I really have to cos I find it pretty uncomfortable.
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by atticRR » 2 Dec 2012 22:14
i use whatever wrench that allows me the most space for my pick-generally if its a small keyway i use TOK and if its a large, cavernous, keyway i use BOK. I had a hard time getting the hang of TOK tension, once i got the hang of it its my preferred method now. if im rakin' usually i have to go BOK, although i have managed the opposite a few times. Also, all my wrenches are bent from wiper inserts of differing widths. On the same topic- for you guys who often pick euros (like you solomon) when you are referring to BOK are you meaning you have the wrench in the bottom, like where the pins are? thats always caused me a bit of confusion since your lockies are all crazy and quite obviously installed all locks up side down 
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by kierkegaurdian » 17 Dec 2012 15:00
atticRR wrote:i use whatever wrench that allows me the most space for my pick-generally if its a small keyway i use TOK and if its a large, cavernous, keyway i use BOK. I had a hard time getting the hang of TOK tension, once i got the hang of it its my preferred method now. if im rakin' usually i have to go BOK, although i have managed the opposite a few times. Also, all my wrenches are bent from wiper inserts of differing widths. On the same topic- for you guys who often pick euros (like you solomon) when you are referring to BOK are you meaning you have the wrench in the bottom, like where the pins are? thats always caused me a bit of confusion since your lockies are all crazy and quite obviously installed all locks up side down 
What do "TOK" and "BOK" stand for? SOrry, I am new and not up on the lingo 
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by GWiens2001 » 17 Dec 2012 16:55
kierkegaurdian wrote:atticRR wrote:i use whatever wrench that allows me the most space for my pick-generally if its a small keyway i use TOK and if its a large, cavernous, keyway i use BOK. I had a hard time getting the hang of TOK tension, once i got the hang of it its my preferred method now. if im rakin' usually i have to go BOK, although i have managed the opposite a few times. Also, all my wrenches are bent from wiper inserts of differing widths. On the same topic- for you guys who often pick euros (like you solomon) when you are referring to BOK are you meaning you have the wrench in the bottom, like where the pins are? thats always caused me a bit of confusion since your lockies are all crazy and quite obviously installed all locks up side down 
What do "TOK" and "BOK" stand for? SOrry, I am new and not up on the lingo 
TOK - Top Of Keyway. (Center of the plug, where the pins can be seen) BOK - Bottom Of Keyway. (Where the flat edge of the key goes) Gordon
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by EmCee » 18 Dec 2012 3:08
atticRR wrote:On the same topic- for you guys who often pick euros (like you solomon) when you are referring to BOK are you meaning you have the wrench in the bottom, like where the pins are? thats always caused me a bit of confusion since your lockies are all crazy and quite obviously installed all locks up side down 
On this side of the 'pond' Euro cylinders are installed with the pins at the bottom. However, TOK/BOK have the same meaning (ie TOK = where the pins are).
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by kierkegaurdian » 18 Dec 2012 8:48
Thanks! I probably should have been able to piece that together 
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by MrAnybody » 18 Dec 2012 11:40
atticRR wrote: ...... Also, all my wrenches are bent from wiper inserts of differing widths.
Same here. I just pick the one out that usually works fine for a particular lock, and give it a go. I have a favorite every now and then. That's my "go-to".
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by Ferrari_is_life » 15 Jan 2013 18:26
I have the regular tension wrenches. I like the feel of the twisted handle. I was looking into purchasing a Spring Loaded Circular Tension Tool. Does anybody have any experience with this tool? It looks like it would be a big help in tight spots.. I was just wondering if it's worth the $40-$50?? Thanks !
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by catsoup » 15 Jan 2013 18:52
The circular spring loaded tension tools I think really reduce tactile response. I havent ever found them helpful. For tight spots, try top of keyway tensioners, the short ones that go infront of the pins. I personally use the peterson flat 5, and really enjoy a few of them for that exact situation.
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by Ferrari_is_life » 15 Jan 2013 19:10
catsoup wrote:The circular spring loaded tension tools I think really reduce tactile response. I havent ever found them helpful. For tight spots, try top of keyway tensioners, the short ones that go infront of the pins. I personally use the peterson flat 5, and really enjoy a few of them for that exact situation.
Thanks for the advice, I'll look for the top of key way tensioners. I did find the $40-$50 to be a bit expensive for such a simple piece, especially if it doesn't really do as good as other tools. Also, do the serrated tension tools really stop from slipping? -Zare
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by catsoup » 15 Jan 2013 19:50
I like the serrations, it allows for you to put the tool in not exactly perpendicularly, and it will still bind fairly well. This isn't a must-have though.
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