How to disassemble older Best padlock?

[i_b_larry]

I have a number of Best padlocks in my collection. In the first two pictures below, the padlock on the left is a “B” series body. I assume that one on the right is an earlier type. The B series differs in many ways; not only is the bottom of the lock different but the locking mechanisms are not the same. The B series uses a dual locking ball system and the earlier models use some sort of sliding bar.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/ ... 0cbde3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/ ... 0c28d0.jpg

Recently I purchased an older Best brass-body padlock without keys. No problem. I have lots of cores with keys and a drill press to remove the old core. I have done this before but this time I ended up with little bits of brass shavings everywhere. I now need to disassemble this lock entirely and clean it out.

I am stuck because I am not sure how to remove the plug, pictured below. (The plug I am referring to is the mostly circular piece that sits next to the core.) It looks like it is just pressed into place but so far I have been unable to dislodge it. I am reluctant to start prying against anything inside the lock body for fear of damaging it. Before I get carried away I wanted to find out if there is some secret to removing this plug?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/ ... a16a09.jpg

I have downloaded tons of information from Best Acess System's website but none of it addresses the older locks.

[Raymond]

I have never taken that particular lock apart but I suspect that the 'plug' you are referring to will rotate. You may have to use a small flat tipped punch on one side to rotate it. When turned it will probably come out. Dont hit the punch so hard that you swell the brass and make it non-rotating.

[averagejoe]

Yup, the plug needs to come out to get it apart. Best used to make a tool for this.

And actually all Best padlocks new and old are "B" series. Before the aluminum ones came out there was the 1B, 2B, ect and the differences were the shackle and body size. Since the Aluminum ones came out, the brass locks are 11B, 21B, etc while the aluminum ones are 12B, 22B etc.

The lock on the left I believe is an 22B772 while the one on the right is a 42B722.

I have never seen a newer logo lock with the double dog locking system but I have seen old logo ones with the ball bearing system.

[i_b_larry]

I have never taken that particular lock apart but I suspect that the 'plug' you are referring to will rotate. You may have to use a small flat tipped punch on one side to rotate it. When turned it will probably come out. Dont hit the punch so hard that you swell the brass and make it non-rotating.

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried tapping gingerly both clockwise and counterclockwise but there was no movement. Closer examination with a magnifying glass shows that the plug intrudes into the core chamber, preventing it from rotating in either direction.

I think the plug is pressed into place but I cannot help but be suspicious that there is some trick to this, like turning the shackle to the 9 o'clock position while holding the lock on its side while standing in a tub of cold water.

[i_b_larry]

Yup, the plug needs to come out to get it apart. Best used to make a tool for this.

And actually all Best padlocks new and old are "B" series. Before the aluminum ones came out there was the 1B, 2B, ect and the differences were the shackle and body size. Since the Aluminum ones came out, the brass locks are 11B, 21B, etc while the aluminum ones are 12B, 22B etc.

The lock on the left I believe is an 22B772 while the one on the right is a 42B722.

I have never seen a newer logo lock with the double dog locking system but I have seen old logo ones with the ball bearing system.

Thanks for the reply, averagejoe.

Best Access currently admits to making only three padlocks: 11B, 21B, and 41B. According to their literature, the locks are chrome plated brass. Their literature also shows all three models being made only with the locking ball system. I can find nothing on their website about any other padlocks.

I purchased the lock on the left brand new and its package identifies it as a model 21B772-L-M. The "L" means that it does not retain the key when unlocked and the "M" means that it has been drilled for a chain clevis that has not been installed.

My first guess was that before Stanley purchased them, Best made all their locks configured like the one on the right in my first photo and that Stanley continued building Best locks like that for a period of time before switching over to the current configuration. Sounds logical, right? Then just last night I was surfing on eBay and found a pre-Stanley Best padlock configured just like the current Stanley/Best padlocks. So my theory is out the window.

My next step will be to design and build a tool to pull the plug from underneath. In my mind I am seeing some sort of C-shaped device with two parallel arms.

[GWiens2001]

Being a brass bodied padlock, might that be retained with a brass pin through the body? A number of brass bodied locks do that. A puller might destroy the lock. Not familiar with that particular lock, but just giving a caution.

Gordon

[Pickmequick]

That lock uses a control key to remove the core.

If you dont have this then you're quite stuck as it is near impossible to pick to the control line.

[Pickmequick]

Sorry, just re-read...........

That'll teach me to skim posts.

[Raymond]

I stated earlier that I had never disassembled one of these padlocks. However, I find that I did have one on my wall. I looked at it again and tapped the plug with a punch. The top section does rotate enough to clear the lugs holding it in place. It does not turn easily. Put some fine lube on it and tap one corner very carefully. It will rotate enough to come out. Then the rest of the padlock can be disassembled.

If you try to pull it, something will break or deform very badly.

[averagejoe]

Like I said, I have seen (and own several) of the old logo locks with the ball bearing system. These need a special tool to remove the actuator then remove the ball bearings.

I was talking with a friend about this and he sent me some pictures. The hammer that best made was used to put the plugs back it. It had a plastic head with a special end that helped rotate the plug back into place but did not help to take it out. He said he uses a piece of copper bar to get it started.





And the "hammer"



And another oddity for you to puzzle over A locking dog system lock that used the removable tailpieces like ball bearing locks. I have a company logo stamped one like this that stopped being made in 1992, so they have made ones like this at least 20 years ago.

[i_b_larry]

Averagejoe, I cannot thank you enough for the photos. I tried tapping mine to the side the other day but I was scared of doing some damage and did not strike hard enough. The photos show me exactly what I need to do. Without the pictures I would have been reluctant to try turning it again.

The other day I saw a photo of that hammer in a Best Acess manual. There was no real good explanation of what it was used for.

I will let you know in a few days how the disassembly goes.

[i_b_larry]

I stated earlier that I had never disassembled one of these padlocks. However, I find that I did have one on my wall. I looked at it again and tapped the plug with a punch. The top section does rotate enough to clear the lugs holding it in place. It does not turn easily. Put some fine lube on it and tap one corner very carefully. It will rotate enough to come out. Then the rest of the padlock can be disassembled.

If you try to pull it, something will break or deform very badly.

Raymond, thank you for the response and the advice. I will let everyone know what happens in a few days.

[i_b_larry]

Being a brass bodied padlock, might that be retained with a brass pin through the body? A number of brass bodied locks do that. A puller might destroy the lock. Not familiar with that particular lock, but just giving a caution.

Gordon

Gordon, thanks for the advice because it never occurred to me that there might be a pin. This is the only non-plated brass lock in my collect of Best locks, so I looked very carefully for a pin and did not see one. Since the other bodies are chrome plated I doubt that a pin would show through.

The pictures from Averagejoe and the advice from Raymond indicate there is no pin. Whew! I would hate to rip this little lock apart using the wrong techniques and I would really hate to turn it into Swiss cheese drilling out pins that are not there.

Speaking of drilling out pins, I have two old ILCO brass padlocks in a kind of art deco style. I had a key for only one of them and have been trying for years to dissassemble the keyless one to repair a damaged shackle. The two locks are similar but not identical and the cores look like they are removeable. I spotted a pin on the side of one lock and swore that I could see a pin in the body of the one I wanted to take apart. I drilled out the "pin" only to conclude that there was none there. Omitting the details for what some might consider a destructive disassembly, even though there was no pin the hole did allow me to gain access to a plug that held everything together. So drilling out imaginary pins is not always a bad idea.

[averagejoe]

Nope, no pins holding best locks together unless it has a pin/rivet holding a clevis and chain on.

[i_b_larry]

I have had to put this project on hold over the holidays. Averagejoe has sent me a lot of great information via PM.

Upon reflection, I am somewhat cool to the idea of turning the "plug" in the Best padlock as suggested in the pictures. Two things bothered me: First, it looked like there was some damage sustained by the plug even though the hammer blows were cushioned by the copper rod; Second, while the plug turned it was not removed. The photos reveal that there are no pins to be drilled out but in the end the plug is still firmly in the lock, just turned a few degrees.

What do you think of this idea? I put the lock (without the core) in the oven and let it bake at 450 for 30 minutes. The heat would cause both the plug and the hole to expand but the hole should expand just slightly more. After 30 minutes, pull the lock out with a pot holder, insert a pipe through the shackle and hold the body steady by standing on the pipe, and pull on the plug with a tool. While 450 is hotter than the normal lock environment, it should not be so hot as to damage the springs for the shackle and locking dog.

Shucks, I could spray everything with non-stick buttery-tasting Pam and bake a batch of cookies at the same time!