Inverters

[Capt_Tom]

Anyone have pros or cons for any particular brand of inverter. I am looking for at least 3000 watts with a self cooling system. Also need at least two recepticals.

Thanks

[2octops]

I've had a lot of good luck out of redi-line generators and Vector invertors.

A 2500 watt Vector should have 3 plugs on it. What we do when we build out a new van run wire and plug ins in multiple locations just like wiring a house. Run them on one or two different circuits with just a heavy duty plug on the end that plugs into the invertor leaving at least one plug open on the invertor if needed.

Basically the wiring and plug ins are extension cords on steroids. It makes life very easy while working in or out of the van to have plenty of places to plug stuff in as needed.

A 2500 watt will run 3, 36" flourescent lights, a dremel, 1200, Bravo 2, Matrix and printer all at the same time. Individually it can run a 12" radial arm saw, Hilti hammer drill or mig welder with no problems. I have discovered that it does not like laser printers or saws alls.

I hope this helps.

[Capt_Tom]

Thanks for the reply. I have a 2000 Honda generator that I can operate when I need to, but currently I operate from a Ford Super Cab pick up. I was looking to put in a 3000 watt inverter that runs off of the truck's 12 volt and gives me enough power to run my new Blitz key machine and some extra light. When I change to a van (or tow-able) I will move it and the generator to that appliance. I will look into the Vector. How long have you had yours?

Thanks again

Tom

[pipescope]

I dont have a brand name to recommend but i do know that when you get to the 3000 Watt models they suggest that the inverter be hard wired directly to the battery, and the cooling fans not be obstructed, I have a 2000 watt in the company truck and i will some times run a 100 ' extension cord off it for drop lights and cordless battery chargers.

Pipescope

[zeke79]

I second the redi line inverters. They are pretty dang good. Also, be sure you calculate your 12v cable size according to the length of run and the amperage draw of the inverter. Install a second battery preferably a good deep cycle and isolate it from the vehicle battery. A heavy duty solenoid and relay should be used and configured so that when the van is running the secondary battery is taking charge but when the engine is off the second battery is isolated from the main battery because the solenoid is not engaged. This will prevent you from running down the vehicle battery with heavy loads. At max load with 90% efficiency a 3000 watt inverter can pull 275 amps so you will need heavy enough cable from the secondary battery to the inverter for that load. The cables from the vehicle battery to the isolation solenoid to the secondary battery can be a smaller size but 4ga is about as low as I would go personally. It will help when you buy your second battery to buy a model with dual post configuration to make wiring a bit easier.

[Altashot]

We use welding cables. I don't know the gauge, but it's about 5/8" thick. They never get hot.

M.

[Capt_Tom]

We use welding cables. I don't know the gauge, but it's about 5/8" thick. They never get hot.

M.

I would think that you being in WESTERN CANADA... you might want it to get hot.... LOL . I go out west to hunt, and when it gets down cold, we can't get charcoal fluid to light, or for that matter GASOLINE!!





Thanks to ALL for the GREAT INFO

Tom

[Altashot]

"I would think that you being in WESTERN CANADA... you might want it to get hot.... LOL . I go out west to hunt, and when it gets down cold, we can't get charcoal fluid to light, or for that matter GASOLINE!!!"

-LOL! I love winter! Snow is awesome! I wouldn't want to live where it's always warm, I'd miss winter. Besides, I don't consider it cold until the thermometer goes below -20 Fahrenheit. LOL! When the temperature reaches 70 degrees in the spring, I frigging cook. Any warmer than that is brutal to me...Darn good thing we have lots of lakes and rivers to swim in and cool off...I can't speak for everybody, but, we are northern people, and many of us love it!

We have 4 seasons here: Almost winter, winter, still winter and road repair season. LOL!

M.

[2octops]

I've got one Vector that is at least 15 years old that works fine. I think the last time I bought one was about 6 years ago for a new van. I've only had 1 smoke in almost 20 years.

The one in MY van is wired directly to the battery with welding cable and soldered ends. Another of my vans we just used a heavy duty set of jumper cables and cut the ends off.

I have ran them off a second battery before and that works well if it's set up properly with a battery isolator so that the second battery receives a charging signal from the alternator while the vehicle is running but does not draw any current from the cranking battery when the vehicle is turned off. You can typically find good isolators from RV dealers. I would strongly advise against trying to rig one up using a Ford starter solenoid. I know several that tried that and spend more in solenoids in a year than they would have for an isolator to start with.

I know guys that run everything from cars to 28' tandom axle enclosed trailers. I like a van personally but it all depends on where you are working. Some of the guys that work in the city doing only automotive or do not have to carry much inventory on hand can use much smaller vehicles. Guys that work out in the country or up north will use 4 wheel drive trucks set up for off road with camper shells because of the terrain and road conditions that they have to travel in the winter. A buddy does nothing but car auctions and large dealers out of a huge, enclosed trailer with a full workshop inside pulled by a 2500.

I like a van because I can easily get into car lots, residential driveways, loading docks and parking decks. I do have an open 12' trailer that I use for hauling doors and small safes as well as an enclosed trailer that I use for large amounts of hardware for big jobs. We do a lot of installations on new commercial construction. The enclosed trailer makes it easy to haul 20 panics, 80 closers and 150 levers or mortise locks. It also gives you an easy place to secure hardware and extra tools or equipment while on a large job site without having to worry about someone walking off with anything or the weather.

[zeke79]

I should have mentioned just what you state 2octops. The ford solenoids just will not handle continuous use. I don't recall exactly where I came up with the one I have but I do recall that it is a 100 amp continuous duty solenoid which is about all your alternator is going to put out while the vehicle is running the fan, fuel pump, lights etc. It cost me about $100 iirc plus a few bucks for a relay. Wire from 12v "ignition on" to the relay 12v signal input. When your ignition is on the relay gets power and powers up the solenoid and you're charging. Turn the ignition off, the power is cut to the relay which kicks the solenoid out and your batteries are isolated from each other.

The easy solution is just to pick up the isolation unit from an RV dealer and in the end, the time it saves over sourcing parts etc yourself probably costs about the same. For some reason I just have to do things the hard way.

[zeke79]

We use welding cables. I don't know the gauge, but it's about 5/8" thick. They never get hot.

M.

Depending on how close your auxillary battery is to your inverter you could be fine with lower gauge wire. For example if your inverter is less than 3' from your aux battery 4awg is fine for a 275 amp load. Up that to 9-10 feet though and you're looking at 0000awg. Chances are you will never see a full load situation on your inverter for very long but it's just good to size for capacity.

Also, don't forget you'll need either 3 high amperage wafer fuse blocks or 3 manual reset 12v breakers. Here is a generic diagram for an idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/ ... f882af.jpg

[Capt_Tom]

I should have mentioned just what you state 2octops. The ford solenoids just will not handle continuous use. I don't recall exactly where I came up with the one I have but I do recall that it is a 100 amp continuous duty solenoid which is about all your alternator is going to put out while the vehicle is running the fan, fuel pump, lights etc. It cost me about $100 iirc plus a few bucks for a relay. Wire from 12v "ignition on" to the relay 12v signal input. When your ignition is on the relay gets power and powers up the solenoid and you're charging. Turn the ignition off, the power is cut to the relay which kicks the solenoid out and your batteries are isolated from each other.

The easy solution is just to pick up the isolation unit from an RV dealer and in the end, the time it saves over sourcing parts etc yourself probably costs about the same. For some reason I just have to do things the hard way.

Yeah, I have a little "river ShacK" that i have wired for 12 volts DC when we are not using the generator. I got the idea of a Ford started solenoid after I saw one on a motorhome... It smoked after a couple of minutes of glowing red. The continuous use solenoid can also be picked up at RV suppliers. The diesel truck that I have has two huge batteries (heavy,too... I just replaced both last spring). It is my plan to use the inverter only when the truck is running. I have a battery isolator that I purchased for my charter boat before i sold it.

Thanks again for all the info guys

Tom

[2octops]

Did you know that you can purchase a 12v motor for most key machines as well as florescent and incandescent bulbs in 12v?

That might be an easy way out for some of your setup.

[shatar]

Although a bit pricy, you could get one of these...
http://www.spheralsolar.com/products/Em ... ystem.html
Run off the sun

[zeke79]

Glad to help. The way you're doing it will work out good.

It might not hurt though to check and compare costs of buying an aux battery (sealed, ventless) and putting it in the rear of the cab. It might actually work out to be less $$$ due to the fact you already have an isolator and could run 4awg from the front batteries to the aux battery instead of 0000awg to carry the load directly to the inverter over that long of a span. The length running from under the hood and directly to the inverter is just getting long which ups the required gauge of wire quickly. Heavy wire is expensive and 0000awg is just ridiculously tough to work with.

Each way has it's own pros and cons so go with what fits your needs the best.