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by Ambro » 1 Jan 2013 2:28
Hello all, This is my first time here, I've been browsing the forums for a bit doing some reading and was hoping some of you experts would be able to assist me with a problem I'm having with an ACEII Tubular lock. My grandfather had a gunsafe and recently passed, no one knows where the keys are for the safe, I tried SPPing it, became frustrated with the darn thing, I believe the issue was due to lack of sufficient tension. I've tried about a dozen times making a custom tension wrench with a wire coat hanger and a pair of pliers but it's not catching inside, I'm assuming this is due to my bend not being spot on or perhaps due to wear on the inside of the cylinder. Anyhow, I was looking around online at some of these tubular lock picks and came across the "new" version of the Southord TPXA-7: http://www.southord.com/Lock-Picking-To ... PXA-7.htmlI didn't see any mention of this being specifically useful for ACEII type tubular locks but was particularly interested in the description "The new SouthOrd tubular lock picks allow adjustment of picking needle pressure, giving them the versatility to pick even tubular locks with higher spring pressures." My understanding is that the ACEII locks have variable tension springs which make these types of picks rather useless. In doing a bit of research on google, I've read a few different forums with mixed information on various success and failure with ACEII locks and the Southord pick but no one seems to go into detail what their method is, I'm not sure if this is due to the competitive industry or to thwart potential criminals. At any rate, is their a specific technique to having increased success with these types of locks or perhaps a better pick suited for this purpose? Before anyone suggests drilling the lock cylinder and replacing it with another lock, I'd like to avoid this route if humanly possible, I'd much rather be able to learn how to properly pick this lock and be able to decode the original and make a copy. Any information on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Thanks all
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Ambro
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by averagejoe » 1 Jan 2013 4:25
Your best best is to call a locksmith to do it properly. If the lock does need to be drilled or gets broken he/she will have replacements for it.
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by Ambro » 1 Jan 2013 4:49
averagejoe wrote:Your best best is to call a locksmith to do it properly. If the lock does need to be drilled or gets broken he/she will have replacements for it.
AverageJoe, thank you for your suggestion, I've called around my area and every locksmith I've spoken with either doesn't want to touch it because it's a gun safe or are charging a horrendous amount of money. The highest I've been quoted thus far was 700 dollars, I'm not joking. Anyhow, I'd prefer learning the proper way to do this so I can save myself an arm and leg! 
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by EmCee » 1 Jan 2013 8:25
What was the lowest quote? Did you contact local locksmiths with local 'real' addresses and numbers, or just use the telephone directory or search engine, in which case the contacts with the biggest ads and top search results tend to be nationals who do frequently charge a lot more than a local locksmith would charge.
I don't know what typical charges are in the US but can't believe they're that much different from the UK. In normal working hours I wouldn't expect a 'proper' locksmith to refuse the job because it's a gun safe unless they have reason to doubt you have legal right of access, and I wouldn't expect the charge to open it to be more than around 100 dollars unless they have to travel a long way to reach you or unless they have to drill and add the cost of a replacement lock.
Unfortunately you've found a site that deals with lockpicking and assumed it's a free-for-all advice site. I don't blame you for that, but if you read the rules of the site (which most casual visitors do not) you'll see that you've crossed two areas of limitation - firstly that the site is primarily for hobby lockpickers and there's a rule about not picking locks that are in use; and secondly that discussion of high security locks (which means not only locks that are per se designed to be high security but also any locks used to secure valuables, including vending machines, coin boxes, cash/valuables safes and most definitely gun safes) is not allowed in open forum, for obvious reasons.
I'm not sure how it works in the US, but in the UK if someone dies an executor has to be appointed to administer the estate, and that includes dealing with the Will (if any) and identifying and gaining control of all assets. If there's a locked safe among the assets it would be the duty of the executor to gain access - otherwise how can they ascertain whether it holds anything of value? If the keys are not available, the executors would be able to call a locksmith and the cost would be covered by the estate.
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by keysman » 1 Jan 2013 10:47
EmCee wrote:..... Unfortunately you've found a site that deals with lockpicking and assumed it's a free-for-all advice site. I don't blame you for that, but if you read the rules of the site (which most casual visitors do not) you'll see that you've crossed two areas of limitation - firstly that the site is primarily for hobby lockpickers and there's a rule about not picking locks that are in use; and secondly that discussion of high security locks (which means not only locks that are per se designed to be high security but also any locks used to secure valuables, including vending machines, coin boxes, cash/valuables safes and most definitely gun safes) is not allowed in open forum, for obvious reasons......
+1
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by Darkness1569 » 1 Jan 2013 11:18
It is also a safe so we cannot talk about gaining access to it in the public forum, because anyone can goggle it and some people will use the information for criminal actions. They have a advance area that has a "safe" section but you have to get granted access to it, here is the link for the info on getting into the advanced area. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2474
“Why do they lock gas station bathrooms? Are they afraid someone will clean them?”
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by Ambro » 1 Jan 2013 18:32
Thanks for all of the information guys, it's very much appreciated.
I was able to locate the administrator's thread for new members of this site and I understand and respect the rules.
I'm really looking forward to furthering my skill in the world of lock picking and am glad I stumbled upon this forum with such a wealth of information. I'll continue to contribute and further hone my skills as a hobbyist and am looking forward to sharing my experiences with you all.
Thanks again.
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by Ambro » 1 Jan 2013 19:00
EmCee wrote:What was the lowest quote? Did you contact local locksmiths with local 'real' addresses and numbers, or just use the telephone directory or search engine, in which case the contacts with the biggest ads and top search results tend to be nationals who do frequently charge a lot more than a local locksmith would charge.
Lowest quote was 450, which to me still seems a bit high. I'm located in California, USA, everything is more expensive here, that's just how it works in the land of Hollywood  I did contact local locksmiths out of the phone book and did a google search for locksmiths in my general area and you're absolutely right, the ones I found on google were definitely more expensive. EmCee wrote:I'm not sure how it works in the US, but in the UK if someone dies an executor has to be appointed to administer the estate, and that includes dealing with the Will (if any) and identifying and gaining control of all assets. If there's a locked safe among the assets it would be the duty of the executor to gain access - otherwise how can they ascertain whether it holds anything of value? If the keys are not available, the executors would be able to call a locksmith and the cost would be covered by the estate.
EmCee, it works very much the same way here in the US and according to the will, my mother is now the primary executive of the estate. We have legal documentation stating as such and would obviously provide that information to a locksmith if required / requested. I've explained this over the phone to the locksmiths I've contacted, but here in the states, I'm assuming that more often than not, locksmiths come across more criminals contacting them than honest customers, hence the hesitation on their behalf. Otherwise, I'm not sure why they'd turn away the business. This isn't an inconvenience in any sort of way, i'm actually excited to be able to learn more about locksmithing in general and now that I've come across this site, it will allow me to further my experience! Thank you for the information EmCee, Cheers.
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Ambro
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by Squelchtone » 1 Jan 2013 20:22
If your "safe" has an ACEII on it, its more than likely something made by Stack On, which just means its a 1/8 inch steel wall (or thinner) cabinet, and not what we here at the forum commonly refer to as a real safe like a mosler or diebold.
What Iwould recommend is to find a real brick and mortal locksmith shop (or a reputable mobile lockout service, that isnt the first thing you see in the phone book (lots of phony scammer locksmith wanna be cowboys out there these days) nearest your house, and either take the cabinet with you depending on how darn big it is, or have your mother call that locksmith shop, and explain she is the executor of the will and there is an ACE-2 lock on the gun cabinet. When you say safe, locksmiths will quote high because safe work is fraught with difficulties and a real safe does cost $300-$1000 to get into, but that tubular lock should be a no brainer for a any reputable locksmith, as long as they are comfortable with your story. If anything have them come out, and agree to pay the drive out fee ($50 usually) so they can look at it at least and give a realistic quote and check the paperwork you have at the same time so they can be more comfortable knowing they are opening a container for someone who has the right to get into it. If you want a real safe guy, go to SAVTA.org and look up a local safe technician and call and eplain the situation and make sure to mention it is a cheap gun cabinet with ACE lock and not a combination safe, otherwise the high quotes will continue.
Good luck, and thanks for understanding our house rules about discussing certain topics with caution. Squelechtone

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by Ambro » 1 Jan 2013 20:44
squelchtone wrote:If your "safe" has an ACEII on it, its more than likely something made by Stack On, which just means its a 1/8 inch steel wall (or thinner) cabinet, and not what we here at the forum commonly refer to as a real safe like a mosler or diebold.
What Iwould recommend is to find a real brick and mortal locksmith shop (or a reputable mobile lockout service, that isnt the first thing you see in the phone book (lots of phony scammer locksmith wanna be cowboys out there these days) nearest your house, and either take the cabinet with you depending on how darn big it is, or have your mother call that locksmith shop, and explain she is the executor of the will and there is an ACE-2 lock on the gun cabinet. When you say safe, locksmiths will quote high because safe work is fraught with difficulties and a real safe does cost $300-$1000 to get into, but that tubular lock should be a no brainer for a any reputable locksmith, as long as they are comfortable with your story. If anything have them come out, and agree to pay the drive out fee ($50 usually) so they can look at it at least and give a realistic quote and check the paperwork you have at the same time so they can be more comfortable knowing they are opening a container for someone who has the right to get into it. If you want a real safe guy, go to SAVTA.org and look up a local safe technician and call and eplain the situation and make sure to mention it is a cheap gun cabinet with ACE lock and not a combination safe, otherwise the high quotes will continue.
Good luck, and thanks for understanding our house rules about discussing certain topics with caution. Squelechtone
Squelchtone, Thank you for the advise and for the link. I'd agree that as soon as the word safe is mentioned, it drives the price up, at least that's been my experience thus far. I was able to find a local mobile locksmith who's willing to drill out the cylinder and replace it with another of our choosing, he's offering to do this for $175 and is licensed. Being a novice to the world of locksmithing, this has really sparked a bit of excitement in me so I think I'm going to hold off, buy myself a decent lock pick set and try to SPP it. I was originally using a homemade pick and tension wrench that I really didn't put a whole of effort into and I attribute a portion of my lack of success to that. Being that I'm a novice locksmith enthusiast, I'd rather be able to feel the success of doing this myself. Anyhow, I apologize in advance to the administrators, mods for not reading the forum rules ahead of time and discussing work on an "in use" lock, it won't happen again in the future. Thanks again for the advise and information.
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Ambro
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by Raymond » 1 Jan 2013 22:15
I cant resist getting in on this one. Most of the advice is right on. I would like to add that if this gunsafe is many years old it might be a Homak. These AceII locks usually have a code stamped on the face of the lock. Getting a locksmith to you or taking the box to a real locksmith could result in a replacement key being cut by code at a considerably lower charge.
Happy new year to all!
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by cledry » 1 Jan 2013 22:48
Can you just pick it up and cart it to a locksmith shop? If you came to my shop I would charge no more than $30 for the job if it is just secured by the ACE lock.
Jim
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by Bob Jim Bob » 2 Jan 2013 6:04
I suggest you learn to pick the lock, the reward and the story will be excellent.
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