New Technique To Open Lever Locks In Seconds???

[mmcc]

Well, I'm relatively new to this game. I've become quite good at pin tumblers, but just getting around to security pins. I haven't gotten around to lever locks just yet, but I have one sitting in front of my with a clear perspex screen on it. Perhaps it my lack of knowledge of existing methods, but something occurred to me that may allow me to open every lever lock in a matter of seconds.

Looking at the mechanism, it struck me that we needed something that could match the levers dynamically. The obvious choice would be some form of adjustable key. But since no one has developed this, I'm assuming that it is impractical. Then I remembered watching a video on Youtube in regards to a substance called D3O. Its is basically a gooey liquid that turns into a rubber upon impact. They are using it in motor cycle protection equipment to protect drivers on impact.

I was thinking that we could create a key with this gooey liquid and impression the mechanism. Then, by applying a quick burst of force, turn that goo into a solid and use it to open the lock. It would be very similar to a bump key for lever locks.

Has anyone considered this? Anyone see potential issues? Anyone want to give it a shot????

[Altashot]

I just read about that D3O stuff. Pretty neat.

I don't think it would work as a key. When operating a lever lock, there are really no impacts with the lever. They ride smoothly on the key and reach their proper height when the key is close to perpendicular. At that point the D3O would soften again and the levers would drop...

It seems like a good but strange idea...I don't really know what to think of it.

Why don't you try it? You may develop something new.

M.

[mmcc]

In this case there would be an impact, or at least contact with enough kinetic energy to cause the D3O to harden, that's not the issue. A proper key moves smoothly in the lock because of the way the mechanism works. Here, we are essentially impressioning the lock and the acceleration of the pick/curtain pick, would be enough to cause the D3O to harden. With a properly designed pick, this would raise the mechanism by the 1-2mm required, allowing the bolt to move.

We should be able to use any non-newtonian fluid, but I am just wondering if the D3O has better properties than cornstarch and water. In particular, a more rigid surface when it hardens.

Anyone know where I can get a sample of D3O????

[mmcc]

Well, I have just contacted the manufacturers of D3O requesting a small sample to carry out the tests. So, hopefully they will either reply by email or join this thread pretty soon.

In case this falls through, does anyone know of any other decent non-newtonian fluids that might be suitable??? I will try to dig up a list.

[EmCee]

Nice idea if it worked, but I think you are thinking it 'backwards'...it's the key that operates the levers, not the levers that operate the key.

Your method depends on the levers reaching the correct positions (gates level with stump) and then not moving from those positions when you apply the force.

However, the levers don't know when they are in the correct position, they just move up with the key until the maximum height of the respective cut is reached, at which point the key stops pushing them up any further (or until they can't move up any further...such as might happen if you used a blank key).

With your method, applying force when you start to feel pressure from contact with the levers would just lift the levers more during the fractional time taken for the goo to harden. The consistency of the goo versus strength of the lever springs is also relevant...the goo will lift a lever only until the pressure from the spring overcomes the lift and the lever starts sinking into the goo instead of rising with it.

When the bolt is tensioned, one lever is likely to bind slightly ahead of the others, in the same way that one pin binds first in a pin cylinder. However, if it binds firmly enough - even if it's in the right position and the gate is level with the stump - then that will be the pressure that stops the goo-key moving further so the sudden force will harden it with one lever possibly in position and the others out of position with their gates either above or below the stump.

There are tools available to locksmiths that allow a lever lock to be impressioned and, in general terms, an 'adjustable' key to be made up to open the lock. However, they are expensive and essentially specific to a particular brand of lock.

Otherwise, impressioning with a key blank that fits the lock and then gradually cutting/filing bittings until you have a working key is the longer-winded version of what you are trying to speed up.

Don't stop thinking or testing though!

[mmcc]

ok, but I'm wondering if you are over-thinking this. Looking the 5 lever Mortice I have in front of me now, I can basically see that a movement of 2mm will open the lock if only I could apply an even upwards force to each of the levers (excluding the rotation of the curtain of course).

The idea is to let D3O mold around the levers in a liquid form. Then provide some rotational force causing it to stiffen. If I have created the right shape, it should be able to lift the levers by the 2mm during that sharp rotation. I think D3O will stiffen significantly enough to turn the lock without any problems. In short, during the rotation, we create a key out the D3O.

[mmcc]

oh, hold on, perhaps I am looking at this wrong. Its not quite obvious on my lock, but I thought the levers were all flush along the top. I'm just seeing that they are not. Let me have a better look and see if this causes problems.

[mmcc]

Well, I just tested that. I have 5 levers in this lock, but only three are employed in restraining the bolt motion. So, as far as I can see, my idea about the D3O should work, provided we can get enough stiffness during the rotation..

[EmCee]

I don't understand that.

Unless your lock is faulty or very odd and fitted with five identical levers, then a) the bolt stump has to pass through the gates of all five levers and b) the gates in the levers are at different heights (either cut in different positions or the bottoms of the levers are at different heights) so the levers have to be moved different amounts in order to line up their gates.

Looking at your lock through the perspex you can see the gate on the top lever and perhaps more. The top lever might need a 2mm travel to line up the gate with the stump, but not all the levers will require the same 2mm of travel. Bear in mind also that lever locks can also have false gates.

[mmcc]

My apologies, I was looking at the lock when it was open. Anyway, I took a photo of the lock at the point at which I feel the D3O exploit may work. See the following link:

http://i.imgur.com/1Efz1.jpg

Pay particular attention to where the teeth of the key meet with the levers. If we replace these teeth with D3O, then in the gel or goo stage, it should mold around the levers leaving an impression of the key structure. So, simple acceleration at this point should stiffen the D30, opening the lock. In fact, I am sure that some forms of glue may also be suitable here, but you will need to wait for it to set.

Do you now see how I intend to create a key on-the-fly out of D3O???

[mmcc]

I do see a problem is the arrangement of the back three levers, their natural positions do not expose the cutting of the key. This comes in the angle, or shape of the bottom of the lever. I don't know if that will be much of a problem, but I suppose I can test it.

[Squelchtone]

The lever pack rests by spring bias all at the same position when there is no key in the lock, all you would end up doing *IF* this idea even worked to apply force down a tiny keyway in order to harden some goo 2 to 4 inches inside a door and in the lock, would be to *MAYBE* make a very rough blank key.

I thought some lever locks have levers where the bellies are differently shaped, and some lever locks have levers that all rest in the same position, but the gates are in different locations on the side of the lever.

I'm no lever lock expert, but this honestly just doesn't seem like anything more than something you'd maybe see in a 007 movie.

Squelchtone

[mmcc]

You are very close on the idea of a blank key. I notice that the resting positions are very close to the bitting of the key. Further, that the shape and angle of the metal at the edge of where the lever meets the key, determines the height. I am wondering if this is enough to cause the D3O to stiffen in the right shape and provide a function bitting that is enough to open the lock.

I suppose the only way to know for sure is to test it. Sure, it does sound a little 007-ish, but then, we are picking locks.

[GWiens2001]

Being a goo before it sets, would be worried that in the moments before the goo sets, it would adhere to the levers AND the key. When it sets, it might then effectively glue he key to the levers and/or the bolt, killing the lock.

Admittedly, have not seen or worked with this material. But those are my concerns.

Gordon

[EmCee]

I thought some lever locks have levers where the bellies are differently shaped, and some lever locks have levers that all rest in the same position, but the gates are in different locations on the side of the lever.

Yes, that's correct.

mmcc - I can't quite see the photo you posted clearly enough but it looks as though the bitting on the key is just touching the first lever (from the top) and possibly the third and fifth levers, with the second and fourth levers hanging in the air. In that case, if you impression that pattern of 'lever bottoms', then the hardened goo will move all levers immediately whereas the key won't move levers 2 and 4 until it's rotated a bit further. If you have turned the key enough so that all the bittings are touching the bottom of all the levers, then some of those levers will have moved up a bit. How will you achieve that with the goo?

Most obvious problems, however, are what will carry the goo - you can't just put a blob of it in there with nothing to support it - and what about the goo that will get squeezed up between the levers?