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Mortise Training Block

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Mortise Training Block

Postby IndigoChild » 19 Feb 2013 19:15

Well it looks like I am going to be doing a bit of welding and sanding and filing and cutting and tapping BECAUSE I acquired a variety of mortise cylinders when I found out my shop only keeps old used ones for parts. I threw some together and unfortunately I didn't have the Sargant at the time of the photos so it isn't in there. But this will work for progressive lock training.

Schlage
Image

Everest
Image

Medeco Biaxel
Image

My goal is to build a wood block of sorts out of sheet steel. It will have a threaded mortise hole with a large knurled knob on the side to act as the set screw. A removable flare to be moved from one side or the other mimicking all types of door frames I will make a switch on the back side to light up an led indicating it was picked and a small timer with oled screen so you can see how long your taking. Thats my goal.

I wanted to give credit to this thread for the inspiration that went into this design.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42977
Last edited by MBI on 3 Feb 2016 16:09, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Moved to the proper forum.
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby phrygianradar » 22 Feb 2013 21:51

That is a really cool idea, especially about the LED and timer. I have an idea for a practice board but for padlocks. The idea is to put as many real life obstacles on the board with the lock to simulate a real life experience. Like having a lock on backwards or jammed in a corner or something like that. It seems like every time I actually have to take a lock off something in real life, there is something that is weird about it. Like I have to crouch in a weird position to do it, or lay on my side or upside down locks etc. You should mount a little speaker on your board that says something like, "can you hurry it up", or "come on man, I'm late!" every 45 seconds or something :lol: that would be like the real deal!
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby IndigoChild » 22 Feb 2013 23:59

That is a serious set of epic ideas. You could almost dedicate a room to training with the locks in all sorts of positions with lamps and tables in your way and pounds of paper and files in the way on a file cabinet. And the moans and groans of a dissatisfied customer played at random intervals with a audio jack to plug it into surround sound or headphones so the people sound like they are behind you. But I actually found myself stuck. I dont know where to get a circle saw from so I can cut a hole for the mortise. I have the mortise tap set but no way to cut a hole.
"How does it work?"
"Only one way to find out. Open it up!"
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby GWiens2001 » 23 Feb 2013 0:06

Draw a circle the size needed, then a smaller one inside that one, 1/2 the radius of your drill bit, so if you drill the inner circle, the outer edge of the drill bit barely reaches the outer circle. Drill a series of connected holes all the way around the circle. Then you can use a carbide burr to clean up and trim the edges. Then use your tap. All done!

Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby IndigoChild » 23 Feb 2013 0:54

Well shoot I was hoping that 'where it was gonna go. I better do it on softer metal then. Then use aluminum paneling to cover it. sorta like a real mortise would be.
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby MBI » 23 Feb 2013 23:30

Take a look at the one Squelchtone built. Might give you some ideas.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42977#p323206

He uses threaded rings specifically made for mounting mortise cylinders. They can be used to attach them to a thin piece of sheet metal like you'd mount a cam lock, and they also have a knurled outer diameter so they can be pressed into wood securely. Ilco makes them, they're available at most locksmithing supplies wholesalers.
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Re: Mortise Training Block

Postby femurat » 25 Feb 2013 4:51

I'm glad to have inspired you, can't wait to see the results :mrgreen:
MBI gave you a great advice about the threaded rings. I've used a simple nut-like ring to keep the cylinder in place by friction, but I'm sure the rings showed here by Squelchy are way better.

Cheers :)
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