How about this one? I invented it ...

[marginal]

Hello people.

I just wanted to share a high security lock I designed.
Please, take a look at it and give me your feedback, I'd really appreciate.
Here's the link to the explanation of the functioning of the lock: http://ubuntuone.com/7N4HavOFuySLXGaJLJBX98
And here's the link to the drawings: http://ubuntuone.com/4Byp6PgvhEk86sYv9ZRwLE

Regards.

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EDIT mh:
New .pdfs added by marginal » 2013-06-02 18:01
Description: http://ubuntuone.com/589fL7CS67TsDJUhxTBNxv
Drawings: http://ubuntuone.com/13AKvgbNxaNghTel6YEDc8

[MacGyver101]

Very interesting idea. Thank you for sharing.

A few off-the-cuff thoughts:

• Forming the key by milling the groves -- but leaving the peaks required to interact with the pins -- is going to be expensive (whether it's done as one piece or two pieces that are welded). Might it be cheaper to have dimples in the key, rather than peaks?
  
• It's not clear to me how the cylinder is going to be pinned and assembled? Presumably the "cylinder housing" post (E4) in the center is fixed and remains stationary... which means that the outside "cylinder plug" sleeve (E5) would have to be slid in after the drivers and springs are inserted into the "cylinder housing" and then somehow attached to the tailpiece? You'll need a plug follower of some sort for assembly -- and I may just not be picturing it properly, but I'm not sure how that would work?
  
• This design only allows for the lock to be turned in one direction (hence your return spring); that will restrict it from being used in a lot of applications that require something be left in an unlocked state. You might want to think of some sort of arrangement where you screw the key in first and then push it in before turning -- and have the key trapped once pushed in (i.e., have ball-bearings engage into dimples on the outside of the key) so that you can rotate it clockwise or counter-clockwise in order to be able to leave the deadbolt/doorknob/whatever in an unlocked state?

Again, very neat design idea. Hope those thoughts/suggestions are of some help.

[GWiens2001]

Any bets on how long it would be before John Falle comes up with a pick tool for $8,000 a pop?

I like your idea. Servicing this lock would be, shall we say "a female canine". MacGyver has some good points about dimples in the key being cheaper to tool/manufacture than spires.

What if you had profile discs at the end of the lock cylinder that rotate as the key (shaped with the same tubular spiral-cut-grooves) is inserted? The discs could prevent the key from being fully inserted into the lock, therefore preventing the pins from being lifted to the shear line. They could be shaped so as to provide a hard stop on the key, so that it will feel as if the key is correctly placed when it is not. They could also line up gates for a sidebar secondary locking mechanism like a disc detainer lock.

Gordon

[marginal]

Very interesting idea. Thank you for sharing.

A few off-the-cuff thoughts:

[list][*]Forming the key by milling the groves -- but leaving the peaks required to interact with the pins -- is going to be expensive (whether it's done as one piece or two pieces that are welded). Might it be cheaper to have dimples in the key, rather than peaks?

[*] It's not clear to me how the cylinder is going to be pinned and assembled? Presumably the "cylinder housing" post (E4) in the center is fixed and remains stationary... which means that the outside "cylinder plug" sleeve (E5) would have to be slid in after the drivers and springs are inserted into the "cylinder housing" and then somehow attached to the tailpiece? You'll need a plug follower of some sort for assembly -- and I may just not be picturing it properly, but I'm not sure how that would work?

Again, very neat design idea. Hope those thoughts/suggestions are of some help.

Hi MacGyver101 and thank you for your input.

It is a good idea to use dimples instead of peaks indeed.
Concerning the assembly, the springs E3 and the bottom pins E2 are assembled one by one, before the cylinder housing E4 is being inserted in the cylinder plug E5.
A plug follower is needed, would it be only to hold the top pins in place.
And only after that assembly has been performed, the cylinder housing E4 is attached using a screw onto the lock base D2.
On the other hand, the cylinder plug D5 is attached to the cylinder plug holder D7 through openings in the lock base D2.

I'll think about your suggestion on modifying the rotation later on, being a little busy now.

Thanks again.

[marginal]

Any bets on how long it would be before John Falle comes up with a pick tool for $8,000 a pop?

I like your idea. Servicing this lock would be, shall we say "a female canine". MacGyver has some good points about dimples in the key being cheaper to tool/manufacture than spires.

Gordon

Hi Gordon.

Servicing such a lock as well as "cutting" a key will be a very long and expensive procedure indeed.
That's why I believe such a lock could be used on a safe lock, where cost and service time are not really an issue.
Will be thinking about your suggestions concerning the modification of the functionning of the lock.

Thanks.

[MacGyver101]

Concerning the assembly, the springs E3 and the bottom pins E2 are assembled one by one, before the cylinder housing E4 is being inserted in the cylinder plug E5. A plug follower is needed, would it be only to hold the top pins in place.

Hrm.

You can't rely on gravity to hold the top pins in place -- so I agree that you'll need one plug follower there.

Won't you also need something to hold down the springs (E3) and bottom pins (E2) while you slide the housing (E4) into the plug (E5)? (And it's this second plug follower that I'm having trouble picturing; during assembly, wouldn't it need to slide towards the rear of the lock, where there isn't an opening?)

[ARF-GEF]

Am I the only one who sees a bunch of gibberish like "9bm��f;7���k���i���<䉅�H�@ :�" when I click on the links? What am I doing wrong?

[GWiens2001]

ARF-GEF,

Download Adobe Reader. Those are .pdf files.

Gordon

[bembel]

Click on right mouse button, save link as...

[MacGyver101]

Am I the only one who sees a bunch of gibberish like "9bm��f;7���k���i���<䉅�H�@ :�"

It's the Lock Matrix. All I see now is Schlage, Kwikset, Medeco...

[marginal]

Concerning the assembly, the springs E3 and the bottom pins E2 are assembled one by one, before the cylinder housing E4 is being inserted in the cylinder plug E5. A plug follower is needed, would it be only to hold the top pins in place.

Hrm.

You can't rely on gravity to hold the top pins in place -- so I agree that you'll need one plug follower there.

Won't you also need something to hold down the springs (E3) and bottom pins (E2) while you slide the housing (E4) into the plug (E5)? (And it's this second plug follower that I'm having trouble picturing; during assembly, wouldn't it need to slide towards the rear of the lock, where there isn't an opening?)

As I see it, only one plug follower is needed.
It slides inside item D5 under every top pin one by one until it reaches the end.
Then, the same goes for item E4 inside the same plug follower by pressing every spring loaded bottom pin.
After assembly, the plug follower is pulled out, and the assembled item is attached to items D2 & D7 using screws.
Does that make sense?

[Squelchtone]

Am I the only one who sees a bunch of gibberish like "9bm��f;7���k���i���<䉅�H�@ :�"

It's the Lock Matrix. All I see now is Schlage, Kwikset, Medeco...

YES! =) awesome!

ahhhh Matrix quotes reduces to locksport jargon... my day is complete.

Squelchtone

[FarmerFreak]

I can see how picking this lock would be difficult, but I'd hardly call it pick proof. Unless I'm miss-understanding the concept..

What is stopping a dimple pick from entering straight into the lock cylinder (not following the grooves the key follows)? Once the pick is under a pin it would be twisted to lift the pins, just like a normal dimple pick. If the keyway was thin enough that a pick couldn't enter that way then the key would most likely be too thin to stay in shape in someones pocket..

What is preventing a tension wrench with two (or three) posts on it from applying tension to the lock?

FYI, I'm pretty sure what you are calling dummy pins is really a new thing. Any lock pinned with the longest possible key pin would qualify..

It would certainly be a fun challenge. If this lock ever gets made I'd love to test it out.

[MacGyver101]

As I see it, only one plug follower is needed.
It slides inside item D5 under every top pin one by one until it reaches the end.
Then, the same goes for item E4 inside the same plug follower by pressing every spring loaded bottom pin.
After assembly, the plug follower is pulled out, and the assembled item is attached to items D2 & D7 using screws.
Does that make sense?

I think I may be misunderstanding one of the diagrams. If I understand you correctly, you're picturing the plug follower as a hollow tube: the bottom pins and spring (and E4) are trapped inside it, and the key pins (and D5) are outside of it. If so, then it can't be any thicker than the tolerance between your plug and housing... and if that tolerance is too big then you could front-shim the lock pretty easily? (Again, I'm probably just misunderstanding something: it's late.)

[marginal]

FYI, I'm pretty sure what you are calling dummy pins is really a new thing. Any lock pinned with the longest possible key pin would qualify..

Hello FarmerFreak.

The dummy pins are the ones making this lock "impossible" to pick.
You have let's say 50 pins in the lock, but only 10 of them are working.
How do you think you'll guess what are the right 10 ones to pick, and on the top of that in three different grooves in the same time?

Thanks.