Slaymaker "scout" combination lock

[Safety0ff]

Raimundo corrected my mistake about the arc thing, it's an non issue. Since your lock is like the one in the instructables break down it you probably won't be able to shim it (i'm talking about the locking dog's configuration.) You could still drill right throught the locking dog it you really wanted.

[nothumbs]

Most commercial shims are rather thick at .005-.007 in thickness. I much prefer shim stock at .002 or .003 for shims for opening combo locks. The .002 works best by needs a gentle hand or it tears.

[Trip Doctor]

You know... if it's a really cheap lock.. you might be able to just use a metal pole or something to prop into the top part of the body of the loock and hammer down on it, and it'll pop open. I've even seen people kick some cheap locks open. Then you can use a flashlight to shine inside and find the combo... or just buy a new lock for 3 bucks.

[construct30]

The lock is a cheap lock, but it came off something that belonged to my granddad. Would like to keep it, silly, I know, but I'm getting sentimental in my old age.

[semolian]

Hi Every One!

I have what i believe to be the same lock body as the "Scout", but it has the long bicycle shackle and no combo. After google-ing slaymaker i found some photos of the Scout and a bicycle lock:





The bodies seem to be identical, the dials are a bit different. My bicycle lock dial has the "SLAYMAKER" logo and the little red pointer arrow pointing south directly to the number 6 when held so you can read the logo like in the first photo, where other locks have different "Logo's" or symbols in the center of the dials. Not sure if there is any relevance to the logos/symbols in the center of the dials. My logic tells me that the guts of these are the same.

My lock is locked open... I dont have the combo.
I dont think it will close until the combo has run.
This is my point... If the other posters with similar locks ( with no combos) that are locked CLOSED were able to shim open there locks with the hopes of peering into the works thru the hole in order to de-code, they may be faced with what I have here.
When I look down the hole and wiggle the locking dog and look for the interior works to give me a clue to a number (like in a Master lock).
ALL you can see is that locking dog part... no gears or nothing. When I apply tension using the shackle I press it into the hole which stiffens the turn of the dial until i reach about 9.5 - 10.5, where it loosens. There are several other suspicious spots as you turn the dial under tension, but not as obvious as the previously mentioned one. The dial only has 12 numbers, but there are little un-numbered tic marks between them, so im not real sure how much room for slop there is.

The real point of the post was to say that you might not be able to look down into the lock once its been opened. I doubt ill ever get my combo, until i start keeping systematic track of the combos ive tried.

[Raymond]

The pictures shown are for Masters, American and other similar locks. They are more advanced that the old Slaymaker. The Slaymakers shown can NOT be shimmed. There is no spring loaded locking bolt. Instead the bolt and fence are one solid piece of metal. This bar fits on a pivot near the bottom of the lock. Moving up the bar, the fence contacts the wheels on the inside and the opposite side of the bar is molded into a shape that moves into the shackle cut-out when pivoted outward by turning the combo wheels.

Putting direct pressure inward on the bolt also puts direct pressure on the drive wheel. It is directly behind the bolt and not visible through the open shackle hole. The wheels cannot be seen. Sometimes you can also feel a combo wheel when turning the dial and putting pressure on the bolt, but not always. The gap at 10 is most likely the last number of the combo because the drive wheel is slightly larger than the other two combo wheels.

If you cannot clearly feel any other gaps open the lock by trial and error. Dial only the whole numbers. For example: 3 turns right to 0, 2 turns left to 0, right directly to 10 - test shackle. Then directly left to 5 and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 15 (skipping 10 because two numbers will not be the same) and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 20 and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 25 and right to 10 - test shackle; and continue around the dial.

Good luck

When you have completed 'walking 'the second wheel around completely, start the process over with the next first number and repeat. This process will go very quickly all the way around.

[semolian]

Thank you for your reply!

I have no intention of sounding ungrateful, or sassy in any way.
I Respect your opinion greatly, however, This dial only contains nums 1-12, setup like a clock with min/sec tick marks all the way around.
Just like in the photos I linked to earlier today. Perhaps they did not link properly.

I will agree that the last num is MOST likely the 10 spot.
I don't understand your example to:

"3 turns right to 0, 2 turns left to 0, right directly to 10 - test shackle. Then directly left to 5 and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 15 (skipping 10 because two numbers will not be the same) and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 20 and right to 10 - test shackle; left to 25 and right to 10 - test shackle; and continue around the dial."

What about all the numbers between 0 and 5? Like 2,3,4 and 6 thru 9 and 11 thru 14 ? (based upon the assumption that my dial had 40-60 numbers on it - which it doesn't)
My logic tells me to run thru the combos trial and error, like you said, only starting with: 1-1-10, 1-2-10, 1-3-10... 1-12-10.
Then: 2-1-10, 2-2-10, 2-3-10...2-12-10 and so-on till the shackle goes in (or the right combo is hit, rather). About 144 possibilities, if my math is correct. (I suck at math)

Is this sound reasoning to any one else?

Thx!

[Raymond]

My apologies. It was too late and I was thinking of dials numbered differently. I was thinking the large numbers were 0, 5, 10, 15 ... 95, 0 instead of 1, 2, 3, 4, ....11, 12, 1. Ignore the small marks between the main numbers as they are just for show. Your combo will be whole numbers only and not like 6.2 or 3.1. Instead the combo will read something like 7R-2L-10R.

The dialing sequence given is to set the first number on one test number and then to progress the second-wheel in an organized manner, testing after each second-wheel movement. After you have gone around testing all the second numbers, progress the first number one step and repeat the second number testing. This is nothing more than testing all possible combinations in an organized and efficient sequence.

[semolian]

Thank You, Raymond!

Your suggestions played a big part in motivating me to successfully getting this locks combo!

I made an attempt using your method, but kept getting tripped up by going passed the 10, or trying to remember if i passed the potential 2nd number for the proper number spins, and "I-dont-know-what-all"!!

LOL.

In my compartmental mind, it turned out to be more effective to go the long way, mentioned above.

I had been fairly successful using this method on Master Lock spin dials.

Luckily for me, I started with the number 1, the combo turned out to be 1-9-10

Cool old lock from a yard sale, brought back to life!! 25 cents!

Thanks Again To You, And This Forum!

Semolian.

[Murderbydeath]

This thread was a great read, and a great guide on how to get similar locks open if one has lost the combination. Nice work!