@l0ckcr4ck3r Did you use a centerdrill to pilot the holes? I see that the little holes in the picture that's second from the top look like they were made with something else. I am interested in making something like this and was planning on using a cutting wheel on my dremel, but I think this could be more accurate. Did you use a drill press, bytheway? Please forgive my unrestrained interest! You really did a great job!
I just placed the brass tube over a piece of dowel rod clamped in a vice and used a center punch and then a cordless drill. The wall thickness of the brass is so thin, it doesn't really matter if its not exactly perpendicular to the surface of the tube. Its kinda hard to get the spacing right when chain drilling... too close the drill bit breaks through and snags... to far apart and the holes don't link up and you got a lot more work to do with a needle file. i think you could just drill both ends of the slot and then use a dremel to cut the strait lines between them. It really helps to have a template stuck on the tube though but if you do, don't use the shipping labels that can be repositioned... the adhesive is not strong enough. after its all cut and filed just use rubbing alcohol to remove the label.
The shipping label idea is brilliant, thank you for your reply. I'll be making a set every time my Keedex master-follower doesn't do the job, that way I'll have a follower on one side and a top pin loader on the other . Thanks again!
Do you think a follower with only 1 hole (at around the middle of the tube so that it can move) would work as well? That should help to avoid any accidentally falling pins and give you a bit more control.
yeah, it would work fine and would help avoid accidentally letting any installed pins fall out. The only down side is you couldn't get a reference of where you were... it might be possible to mix in your head, which chamber you were loading.
Yute true. I would think you can bridge that problem with usigna marker an marking the 0°(middle) on the tube as well as "grading" it which sholuld help you chekc whcih row you are in. But if you are much more methodical than I am I think you can follow it in you head as well. I sure would get confused at some point or other, so that is a very valid point l0ckcr4ck3r.
Totally understand what you mean!!! i never even thought about using reference marks on the outside of the tube.... awesome idea!!! So as you say, mark the top of the outer core at 12 o'clock position then maybe scribe some crosshairs on the outside of the tube. As long as you lay out the pins and work through them logically, its not gunna be an issue
...This gives me another idea for a pinning tool for Euro cylinders in general...
l0ckcr4ck3r wrote:Totally understand what you mean!!! i never even thought about using reference marks on the outside of the tube.... awesome idea!!! So as you say, mark the top of the outer core at 12 o'clock position then maybe scribe some crosshairs on the outside of the tube. As long as you lay out the pins and work through them logically, its not gunna be an issue
...This gives me another idea for a pinning tool for Euro cylinders in general...
Wow, really cool. Do you run into trouble installing the plug? I use magnetic follower bits for these jobs, and it can be a pain taking everything apart. I'm simply curious of how the cylinder slips in. Seems the tool holding the pins in can make it a tight fit.
Well the pinning tool above was specifically for a Gemini Rim cylinder, so once loaded you would just remove it from the back of the outer core as you pushed the plug in from the front. I havent got many euro profile locks at the moment, so i just struggle along with a clip made from a wiper inset and tweezers... i think there is a better way though. Ive seen the magnet stacks and it looks easier than what im using right now. Im just thinking of a way to completely remove the step of trying to load drivers at the back of the lock with a pair of tweezers, thats the main problem i have with Euros.
l0ckcr4ck3r wrote:Well the pinning tool above was specifically for a Gemini Rim cylinder, so once loaded you would just remove it from the back of the outer core as you pushed the plug in from the front. I havent got many euro profile locks at the moment, so i just struggle along with a clip made from a wiper inset and tweezers... i think there is a better way though. Ive seen the magnet stacks and it looks easier than what im using right now. Im just thinking of a way to completely remove the step of trying to load drivers at the back of the lock with a pair of tweezers, thats the main problem i have with Euros.
The magnetic stacks are easy, but I was imagining removing the plug without removing the cam that is connected on most euros double cylinders. Sometimes there is simply a clip holding on the plug. I don't work on them often, and when I have to the are usually top loaded. I have turned away rekeys for capped bibles on euros because it is too time consuming to remove everything and use the magnets. I usually try and sell a new one in those cases. MDS makes a decent replacement.
Totally understand what you mean!!! i never even thought about using reference marks on the outside of the tube.... awesome idea!!! So as you say, mark the top of the outer core at 12 o'clock position then maybe scribe some crosshairs on the outside of the tube. As long as you lay out the pins and work through them logically, its not gunna be an issue
Exactly what I meant! I'm glad you like it ! What is your idea about repining Euro locks? They do sometimes give me a hard time...
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. Thanks again!