Calling all bump key specialists

[LockDocWa]

These pins and springs are an invention from Ilco.
This product is known as the Ilco 1500BH ( Bump Halt )
They are designed to all but eliminate the possibility of
bypass by bump keys. Have you tried them?
Were you able to bump these open?
If so, how much time was added to your bumping success?
Not really interested in SPP statistics, Only about how they deter the bump key.

[atticRR]

is that a super spring thats designed to just mash down on the top of the driver? seems pretty valid to me. I am also interested in what people have to say about this.

[Teddy Picker]

is that a super spring thats designed to just mash down on the top of the driver? seems pretty valid to me. I am also interested in what people have to say about this.

It's hard to tell because of scale. I'd guess that is a stronger spring, but that's nothing new. What looks different from the pins I've seen is that extra bit on the pin. It seems like the extra thin bit of metal protruding into the spring might be there to strike against the inside of the cylinder, bouncing it back with the same kind of concussive force that bumping works on in the first place.

This would probably work best with one or two of these in a lock. That way these bounce back at different rates than the neighboring standard pin stacks. Bouncing at different rates still allows the shear lines to open (this is unavoidable without larger changes to the design) but the shear lines are not open at the same time. The greater the difference in bouncing rates, the harder it will be to bump the lock. The extra bit of metal on the pin will cause it to bounce back much faster than just a strong spring would.

Another upside to these pins is that they might be long enough to foil a comb pick. Their effectiveness against both bumping and comb picks would be increased by pairing the special driver pins with longer key pins.

[Klinx104]

i have bumped this, (bought them specifically for this),
but it took two or three times longer...
that said, i'm a bit n00by, so it mighta just been the
fact that i thought it shoulda been harder...

[LockDocWa]

Here is a photo of a comparison in springs.
Top spring = tangle resistant.
Middle spring = Bump Halt.
Bottom spring = typical cylinder spring.

The Bump Halt is made with, easily, twice as heavy material.

[minifhncc]

I actually bought these and use them. It makes considerably picking harder too. The thing with these bump halt pins is that, for them to be effective, they should be placed with #1-#3 (i.e. short) bottom pins, which makes sense.

[minifhncc]

A downside is that the spring is quite stiff. It makes removal and inserting the key a bit harder too.

[capt.dunc]

i would of thought that these pins would have had light springs to use the newtons cradle effect to it's best advantage, ie. key bumps and the energy transfer causes them to jump easily leaving the driver as a middle pin across the shearline. i'd also guess these are more effective against the minimal movement technique, but maybe not so great against the back one whole valley approach where the driver pin will pass the shearline twice.

ps not a fan of bumping, so from a picking stand point how are they with reverse picking?

[minifhncc]

so from a picking stand point how are they with reverse picking?

The stiff spring makes it a tad hard.

[dll932]

A downside is that the spring is quite stiff. It makes removal and inserting the key a bit harder too.

All the more reason to keep your locks lubed.

[dll932]

FYI-
http://www.locksmithledger.com/article/ ... technology

[YouLuckyFox]

I'd also guess these are more effective against the minimal movement technique, but maybe not so great against the back one whole valley approach where the driver pin will pass the shearline twice.

I am very interested in making my locks more bump resistant. Would someone explain what the back one whole valley and minimal movement techniques mean?

[oppjd]

A downside is that the spring is quite stiff. It makes removal and inserting the key a bit harder too.

Perhaps placing the spring in pin position #5 or #6 (depending on the number of pins in the lock) would make key insertion a lot easier since only the last cut would contact the spring vs in position 1 where the entire key would have to drag through it.

[bjornnrojb]

Where did you find these springs? Does a locksmith distributor have them?

[alockguru]

Where did you find these springs? Does a locksmith distributor have them?

I know this is a little old but hlflake carries them.
They have a kit for rim/mortise locks and then a kit for KIK knobs/Bolts.
Looks like the "kits" come with 10 springs/10 pins and are running at about $6.