Re-Keying a Schlage Lock

[chaos4zap]

I found a Schlage lock at a thrift store without any key. I thought it would be good practice and want to Re-Key it. I have Re-Keyed locks before, but can't seem to figure this one out. Pictures to said lock are at the link below. Does anyone have experience on this type of lock and have any advice on what the trick is to get the core out of the cylinder?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54609108@N03/?saved=1

[femurat]

I think you have the same lock.

Cheers

[chaos4zap]

I think you have the same lock.

Cheers

Thank you. It does look like the same lock, can you share with me this "bypass" method that you figured out from the locksmith?

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Easiest way to bypass that is to pick it. It's just your standard "C" keyway, 5/6 pin. Nothing too difficult. You'll see a lot of those in commercial buildings in conjuncture with mortise locks. Schlage reps have done a great job selling those to high rises. I've seen them all over the country.

[chaos4zap]

Easiest way to bypass that is to pick it. It's just your standard "C" keyway, 5/6 pin. Nothing too difficult. You'll see a lot of those in commercial buildings in conjuncture with mortise locks. Schlage reps have done a great job selling those to high rises. I've seen them all over the country.

Uh...it has been picked. Picking this lock seems to do nothing to release the core. Take a look at the pictures. In the link above, someone mentioned a special key you can get to trigger some sort of release inside the lock.....I'm trying to figure out how to trigger that latch without buying this special key, thereby by-passing it.

[Evan]

Uh...it has been picked. Picking this lock seems to do nothing to release the core. Take a look at the pictures. In the link above, someone mentioned a special key you can get to trigger some sort of release inside the lock.....I'm trying to figure out how to trigger that latch without buying this special key, thereby by-passing it.

The control sleeve/pin is all the way at the back of the core...

You must lift that additional pin in order to rotate the control sleeve and disengage the retaining lug found at the back of the core... This must be done when the lock is in the key pull position -- this is why you are having difficulties removing the core, you can not pick the core first then try to manipulate the control pin after you have rotated the plug, it all must be done at the same time...

The "special key" you keep referring to is a control key blank, with Schlage LFIC keying systems the control key can be any bitting which will operate the lock cut on a control key blank...

~~ Evan

[Tyler J. Thomas]

Uh...it has been picked. Picking this lock seems to do nothing to release the core. Take a look at the pictures. In the link above, someone mentioned a special key you can get to trigger some sort of release inside the lock.....I'm trying to figure out how to trigger that latch without buying this special key, thereby by-passing it.

I guess you should clarify further in the future.

Once it's picked, move it as close as you can back to the locked position. Take a hook pick and manipulate the back pin that will engage the control retention pin. You need to lift up slightly and rotate clockwise. It will only rotate a bit. Once you feel it rotate, pull out.

[bjornnrojb]

I have purchased one of these SFIC Schlage cylinders on sale from my distributor and am playing around with it. Picked it fast (pins are all 1 depth) and took the plug out but was surprised to find that the back pin is quite flimsy. If you push it up and rotate the lock, the whole ring falls out with the little pin! Anyway it seems like it would be quite a job to pick this to control if it was already in a lock that couldn't be disassembled. I will have to wait for my distributor to get the lock I ordered. Apparently LFIC padlocks aren't a hot ticket item because I've already been waiting four months for KDL Hardware to get my padlock in!

[cledry]

I have purchased one of these SFIC Schlage cylinders on sale from my distributor and am playing around with it. Picked it fast (pins are all 1 depth) and took the plug out but was surprised to find that the back pin is quite flimsy. If you push it up and rotate the lock, the whole ring falls out with the little pin! Anyway it seems like it would be quite a job to pick this to control if it was already in a lock that couldn't be disassembled. I will have to wait for my distributor to get the lock I ordered. Apparently LFIC padlocks aren't a hot ticket item because I've already been waiting four months for KDL Hardware to get my padlock in!

You are describing a Schlage LFIC core not a Schlage SFIC. My local supplier has 128 of those padlocks in stock.

[cledry]

Easiest way to bypass that is to pick it. It's just your standard "C" keyway, 5/6 pin. Nothing too difficult. You'll see a lot of those in commercial buildings in conjuncture with mortise locks. Schlage reps have done a great job selling those to high rises. I've seen them all over the country.

Uh...it has been picked. Picking this lock seems to do nothing to release the core. Take a look at the pictures. In the link above, someone mentioned a special key you can get to trigger some sort of release inside the lock.....I'm trying to figure out how to trigger that latch without buying this special key, thereby by-passing it.

Easiest way is to make a control bump key.

[Sinifar]

The LFIC control is nothing more than a longer SC-4 key. Cut a regular key back about another "space" - that is cut towards the head about .150 top and bottom. the 7th position is for the control pin. It is cut to a 6 depth, .245. No steeple.

You can't do this for Primus or Everest, as you would need to also space out the side bar cuts.

LFIC is not "0" bitted from the factory but "1", so keep that in mind.

Sinifar

[cledry]

The LFIC control is nothing more than a longer SC-4 key. Cut a regular key back about another "space" - that is cut towards the head about .150 top and bottom. the 7th position is for the control pin. It is cut to a 6 depth, .245. No steeple.

You can't do this for Primus or Everest, as you would need to also space out the side bar cuts.

LFIC is not "0" bitted from the factory but "1", so keep that in mind.

Sinifar

You can do it on Everest, I do it all the time. You only need to move the shoulders slightly and the side cut is wide enough to still actuate the pin. I also make control bump keys for these locks and it works quite well. Cannot do it for a Primus though.

[cledry]

BTW the dark core is probably a construction core, meant to be replaced when the customer installs their own cores.

[jeffmoss26]

It's probably the standard 'black' construction core, of which I have several.