When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by l0ckcr4ck3r » 24 May 2013 1:28
I found this in the bottom of my tool box and started thinking... If any of you out there know anything about the stainless grade they use in these things, perhaps you could let me know if its worth making a pick out of. You can get the long handled versions on eBay for 3-4 bucks, the comfortable handle is already made you. 
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l0ckcr4ck3r
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by basepi » 30 May 2013 18:07
I'm no expert, but I know that most surgical instruments which need to keep a sharp edge are usually tempered steel.
I would say go for it, see what happens! And take lots of pictures to post here! =)
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by YouLuckyFox » 18 Jul 2013 22:13
Not much of an expert, either, but work with metal pretty frequently. Surgical instruments are usually made of "surgical stainless steel." 304 or 316 are commonly used; but I'll guess what you took a picture of is 304. I have turned and milled 304 and it is suitable for making picks out of, but not ideal, since it is not a spring steel. SouthOrd has stainless picks but they are out of 301 (which is a spring steel), to my understanding. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_steel_grades
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by steinb64 » 24 Oct 2013 7:02
You need to be careful when buying those scalpel handles. A lot of them are nickel plated brass and not stainless. There are quite a few of them made in Pakistan and other countries as well although they may be stainless they are of poor quality steel that is sometimes brittle and other times very soft.
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by vinnie » 28 Oct 2013 20:54
I've always heard that surgical steel is usually not the greatest quality for anything other than throw away tools. For instance the stainless used in scalpels and such doesn't actually hold an edge that well since it only needs to be used the once before they chuck em. I could be wrong though.
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by TCS » 29 Oct 2013 10:17
basepi wrote:I'm no expert, but I know that most surgical instruments which need to keep a sharp edge are usually tempered steel.
A scalpel blade needs a sharp edge, but a scalpel handle has no need of one. vinnie wrote:I've always heard that surgical steel is usually not the greatest quality for anything other than throw away tools. For instance the stainless used in scalpels and such doesn't actually hold an edge that well since it only needs to be used the once before they chuck em. I could be wrong though.
Blades would be thrown away, but many instruments are autoclaved and reused.
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TCS
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by Achyfellow » 29 Oct 2013 16:25
Is that a handle? In that case you could make pick tips which fit it, using a handle to make a tip seems like a waste...
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by TCS » 29 Oct 2013 16:59
Achifaifa wrote:Is that a handle? In that case you could make pick tips which fit it, using a handle to make a tip seems like a waste...
Yes, that's a handle, and the blades mount to that long thin tip via means of a hole in the blade. In theory you could make picks that used the same mounting system, which is an interesting idea. Here's a video that shows a little of how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqUxQ9jKMkgI wonder how well it would work since I could imagine with the different forces picks are subjected to as opposed to blades, it might want to come off. Or it might work just fine. It probably depends on the kind of pick as well. If you try it, keep us updated, it's an intriguing idea!
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TCS
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by TCS » 30 Oct 2013 11:35
Note, I don't think even the largest blade sizes are big enough to make a practical pick with much reach from, so you have to make one from scratch, and getting the mounting hole right, with good tolerances, might be a challenge.
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TCS
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by Dogrocket » 1 Nov 2013 18:09
I added a couple of cheap scalpel handles to my last amazon order (couple of bucks each, Pakistan "steel" - but so no loss if they didn't work out) - I love free shipping.
The handle is fairly hefty, and the tip is a lot shorter then I pictured.
The working area is about 18mm long, and about 3mm square (with a shallow groove running along the top and the bottom). As is the tip could probably be ground into a dimple lock pick (a short one), or possible forged out into a hook or diamond (There's enough metal that it can likely be drawn out a bit and curved). Stock removal on the handle to make the tip would certainly be feasible, but if the steel is any good it's a lot of metal to remove.
I'm going to give the forging approach a go over the weekend.
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by Dogrocket » 3 Nov 2013 17:26
I got a chance to break out the propane torch and anvil:  The middle handle is unaltered original for scale. The top handle was flattened out at the tip sufficiently to make a half-diamond (still needs some stock removal from the handle to extend the shank). Not in love with this pick at all. There was sufficient metal to draw the tip into a fairly decent hook. They still need to be heat-treated, ground to final shape and polished, but I don't have high hopes for the steel (Filed far to easily before I even heated them up)
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Dogrocket
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by l0ckcr4ck3r » 4 Nov 2013 0:58
Awesome Dogrocket!!! I really wanted to see how this would turnout, thanks for trying it out  Im waiting to see what the final temper will be like although i hadn't thought about forging out the tips. Its a much better option than paying 7 bucks for a long handled one and grinding down!
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l0ckcr4ck3r
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by Dogrocket » 9 Nov 2013 18:43
I started a new hook rather then finishing the original one (I'd let the tip get a little too thin to work with) I forged out my last blank into a rough hook, filed it down to profile and gave it the following treatment: 1. Heated the worked area to medium red heat, quenched in water. 2. Annealed by wrapping the handle in foil, placing it in the oven at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour, then let cool to room temperature for a few hours. Finally gave it a good sanding:  The resulting pick is fairly strong, has a little flex without bending (but I wouldn't call it springy) and has already opened a few practice locks. Total cost (not including the failed pick): $1.92, and about 2 hours. I like the result, but I think I still prefer windshield wiper blades - heat treating unknown quality steal that thin is problematic at best.
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