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BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Bump keys and lock bumping finally have their own area. Discuss making bump keys, proper bumping techniques, and countermeasures here.

BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby TinkererBell » 30 Nov 2013 21:20

I'm handcrafting a bump key for my set of BEST SFICs, and need expert advice. Efforts so far have yielded no success:

The target locks (which I own) are 7-pin BEST SFICs; the blanks I'm cutting from are non-OEM, but correct (G) keyway. Since I don't have a micrometer or calipers, I've used my set of operating keys and a ruler as reference for spacing and depth.

The nut of my question is: What's the ideal way of shaping the peaks and roots of a bump key for a BEST SFIC? What should I be doing differently?

I've done my best to space the roots at .150” (3.8mm) from center-of-cut to center-of-cut. In terms of positioning the cuts properly on the blade, I first eyeballed the operating keys for reference, then used a round file to make cuts that were almost a 9—but not quite that deep.
ImageFigure 1.
Then I referred to the table of A2 bitting and pin specs published in the April 2008 issue of ALOA's "Keynotes" (page 26). I measured the proper distances for each cut from tip stop to bow, and marked each position with small hatches/notches along the lower blade. I then then used a #0 pippin file for the finer work of shaping roots cut to a depth of "9" that hit the center of each reference point I'd measured and marked earlier.
I then filed back the tip, the tip stop (on the bottom), and the shoulder—so as not to break anything.

My first stab at hand-cutting this bump key was premised on filing roots and peaks approximating the geometry of a "99" that appears on one of my OEM operating keys (See Figure 1, specifically, the biting in the top (OEM) key for pins 6 and 7), consistent also with a machine-cut BEST bump/depth key I saw online. In other words, I tried to make flat roots cut to "9" and peaks as symmetrical as my tools and hands allowed, like so: ^-^-^-^-^-^-^-^.
ImageFigure 2.
I attempted bumping with it; no joy.

My new theory at this point was that I'd shaped the peaks a little wonky (none were a perfect 45 degrees), and that my "9" cuts should have been deeper. I also read a different (competing?) strain of thought regarding the ideal shape of a BEST bump key: Since SFICs favor the "pull back"(/"one click") bumping method (according to TOOOL and—as I recall, though perhaps falsely?—other posts on this forum), the bump key's roots should be cut slightly deeper than "9", and should not be flat. Instead, the peaks and roots should form a shape that looks like this: ^^^^^^^^.
So I modified my first (unsuccessful) key accordingly.
ImageFigure 3.
That didn't work either.

As you can see in Figure 3, the (re)modified key has roots cut below "9" depth. You may also notice the peaks are not very high (relative to an imaginary plane set at "9" depth), and conjecture that the peaks are too shallow/small or spaced to transfer the striking force. While it is entirely possible this is the case, I should note that I've watched and felt how the #7 pin (the pin most anterior to me; i.e., closest to the bow) moves over each peak as I insert the key into the cylinder. From my observations, pin #7 (from which I'm generalizing about the rest of the pins) still moves a considerable amount vertically over each peak, and presents what would seem to be an appropriate amount of tactile resistance. I also don't feel any loose play between the pins and peaks when the bump key is inserted at the "pulled out one click" position.

TECHNIQUE: I've tried bumping my BEST SFICs both dry and with WD-40; in rooms with warmer and colder temperatures; using the bottom of a stapler, a screwdriver handle, or wrench; without anything around the bump key's shoulder and also with a rubber band, or a bicycle inner tube, or foam earplugs. I've refrained from turning the bump key prior to the moment of contact, so as to avoid binding the pins.
No success yet. But I know this thing is bumpable. I believe it's the key, not me.

QUESTIONS: Please have a look at the photos; tell me what you think:

(1) What's the ideal geometry for a BEST SFIC bump key's biting? Flat roots or "V-cut"? To what depth? How about the first peak—bigger, smaller, same size?
(2) What have I done right, and what have I done wrong?
(3) What must I do to craft a bump key that works on a BEST SFIC? (...Ideally using only the resources I've mentioned earlier.)

In advance, thanks so much for your advice and experience. :D
Image
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby xylac » 30 Nov 2013 23:12

First of all, there's a forum for lock bumping, in which you might have better luck.

Secondly, I haven't heard of bumping an SFIC before. I looked through the link, and didn't find anything referencing SFIC or interchangeable cores. The two shear lines should be significantly separated, so the process of bumping would need to separate the pins either entirely at one shear line or entirely at the other. Statistically, this should be less likely than bumping a regular pin tumbler lock (of course, mechanics of bumping are never that simple). If there are 7 pins and we assume each pin stack gets set at one of the shear lines, about 63/64 attempts will be unsuccessful. This is assuming 100% success rate in bumping a lock with a single shear line. Have you had much luck bumping other locks? That'll determine whether it's an issue of technique, bump key shape, or feasibility.

One thing you may try is removing the pin stacks and seeing if you have more luck. Bumping just one pin stack of an SFIC should be just as difficult as on a normal lock. However, it should be twice as hard with two, four times as hard with three, etc. Perhaps the key was cut correctly, but bumping SFIC may just be infeasible.

(This post has another possible solution-- may or may not actually work: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12498)
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby TinkererBell » 30 Nov 2013 23:50

xylac wrote:I haven't heard of bumping an SFIC before. ... bumping SFIC may just be infeasible.

It's not only feasible, but it's been discussed with some frequency on this site in the past. Some members on this site (like keysman) claim upwards of a 50-80% success rate bumping BEST SFICs. See, e.g., here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16506 or here viewtopic.php?f=9&t=34448&start=0
Indeed, there are videos online of bump keys opening BEST SFICs.
xylac wrote:This post has another possible solution-- may or may not actually work: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12498

That link suggests filing off the bottom of the bump key and inserting a tension tool, to be used simutaneously. That doesn't make sense for at least two reasons: First, it would still bind the pins while you're striking, preventing them from jumping; second, it critically weakens the key, which is already weak because it's cut to "9" (or deeper).

Would anyone who's bumped an SFIC (BEST or otherwise) care to offer their experience? Would any bump key aficionados care to offer constructive criticism on my key making attempts? Come on, guys —please spare my feelings.
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby keysman » 1 Dec 2013 23:41

Image


Take a look at your factory key, notice the flats at the bottom of the cuts ( see the arrows in the picture) these flats allow the key pins to “ rest” at the correct depth for that cut, The hand cut key has too steep of slopes, so the key pin cannot consistently drop down below the sheer line. So widen out your flats and you should have better results.
Calipers that will work fine for hobbyist use are available from many companies . Harbour Frieght http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ?q=caliper check the front page for current discounts etc.
Everyone who eats potatoes eventually dies. Therefore potatoes are poisonous.
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby phrygianradar » 2 Dec 2013 1:17

I have bumped SFIC locks from homemade bump keys; it works. I agree with what keysman said about making more rest room for the pins and would add one thing. Your peaks are way too high! I have had much better success with just a little sloping hump. I start by making my vallys with a round file to give a little "launch ramp" type of effect and then flatten it out with a square file. The peak should be very shallow. I have made many bump keys and it just comes down to spending quality time shaping the key; much like whittling. It is like an art form to make a nice bump key that works well and won't be too nasty rough on the lock. Remember; little humps. I am by no means an expert, this is only my experience with bumping and fashioning the keys to do so. Have fun, don't over think it, be creative, and be legal! :D
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby dll932 » 2 Dec 2013 15:42

If it's a Coremax, good luck! These have a moveable member in the core that must be pushed in before the core will turn.
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby TinkererBell » 2 Dec 2013 19:55

The hand cut key has too steep of slopes, so the key pin cannot consistently drop down below the sheer line. So widen out your flats and you should have better results.

I took your advice, keysman, and splurged on a set of nice calipers today. Then I tried cutting a new bump key, following your advice about widening my flats. Here are the results:
Image
I measured the OEM key and found that the roots are .080" for their flattest part, and about ~.090" total, up to the base of the adjacent peak. The peaks were .257" tall from the base of the blade, and the 9-cut roots were .212" from the base of the blade. I cut my bump key accordingly.
I've still had no success, but my fingers are throbbing from repeated "bump" strikes.
After I strike and turn the key, I can hear the pins unbinding and falling back into position. So I know things are moving. I'm not sure what to do with that information, though.
I start by making my vallys with a round file to give a little "launch ramp" type of effect and then flatten it out with a square file. The peak should be very shallow.

How's this new photo, @phrygianradar & @keysman? My peaks are actually .012" shorter than those between the OEM key's OEM 9-cut, and the roots are .020" deeper. Any advice?
Image
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby TinkererBell » 2 Dec 2013 19:57

dll932 wrote:If it's a Coremax, good luck! These have a moveable member in the core that must be pushed in before the core will turn.

Thankfully it's not a Cormax.
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby Squelchtone » 2 Dec 2013 20:10

From the photo I can tell the cuts need to be more accurate. SFIC's, especially BEST brand, are very accurately made locks. To the naked eye that may look like a bump key, but there are 3 inconsistencies.

1. your root depths are not all the same, they're close but not the same
2. the heights of your peaks are not uniform across the blank
3. the angle on the \ of the valleys changes a little from cut to cut.

Of all these things I think the left valley wall \ of \_/ needs to be the same for all pins, and I wonder if you need to go just a little lower on the _ of the \_/ of each cut.

hope this helps,
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby Squelchtone » 2 Dec 2013 20:51

I took a photo of a BEST BE2 bump key, this one requires the pull out one tooth before hitting method. Looking at my key, you probably dont need to go lower, just have the angles on the valleys be a little more uniform and a lower angle by a few degrees.

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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby TinkererBell » 2 Dec 2013 21:16

Squelchtone wrote:1. your root depths are not all the same, they're close but not the same
2. the heights of your peaks are not uniform across the blank
3. the angle on the \ of the valleys changes a little from cut to cut.

Thanks so much for your feedback and the photo. I'll measure twice, file away, try again.
You key's a beauty! Did you hand file that?
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby Squelchtone » 2 Dec 2013 21:30

TinkererBell wrote:Thanks so much for your feedback and the photo. I'll measure twice, file away, try again.
You key's a beauty! Did you hand file that?


No, purchased on ebay with a bag of 25 other bump keys. It was cut to code on a key machine as far as I can tell.

I will say that in trying this bag-o-bumpkeys just now on some locks around my desk, bump keys are not magical and do not always work on the first hit. It's a timing issue and will require some practice. If you are tired of smacking your fingers, put a bra underwire (dont ask where I got one) through the keychain hole on the key and use that as a lever/tension wrench, but dont pre tension it before you hit the key.

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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby phrygianradar » 3 Dec 2013 1:01

Squelchtone wrote:
No, purchased on ebay with a bag of 25 other bump keys. It was cut to code on a key machine as far as I can tell.

Squelchtone


That is crazy and cool that you bought a bag of bump keys off eBay! I have seen disclaimers on eBay stuff that assures the mods that whatever being sold is not a "lock pick" or illegal and such. Did it actually say, "bump keys",or was it that you could just tell by the picture? Looks nice, too. Cool score!
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby Squelchtone » 3 Dec 2013 7:02

phrygianradar wrote:
Squelchtone wrote:
No, purchased on ebay with a bag of 25 other bump keys. It was cut to code on a key machine as far as I can tell.

Squelchtone


That is crazy and cool that you bought a bag of bump keys off eBay! I have seen disclaimers on eBay stuff that assures the mods that whatever being sold is not a "lock pick" or illegal and such. Did it actually say, "bump keys",or was it that you could just tell by the picture? Looks nice, too. Cool score!




This was a few years ago when bump keys were all the rage and ebay didn't know any better.
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Re: BEST SFIC bump key— How to make an ideal cut?

Postby Evan » 12 Jan 2014 0:02

TinkererBell wrote:
Squelchtone wrote:1. your root depths are not all the same, they're close but not the same
2. the heights of your peaks are not uniform across the blank
3. the angle on the \ of the valleys changes a little from cut to cut.

Thanks so much for your feedback and the photo. I'll measure twice, file away, try again.
You key's a beauty! Did you hand file that?


I am joining this thread very late, but here is my two-cents worth...

With the bitting tolerance of 0.0125" of an inch between depths with Best A2 keying systems even having a key that doesn't look right like the ones you posted pictures of would be almost impossible to successfully bump Best SFIC's with...

Machine made bump keys will work a lot more frequently than you would expect but like others have said SFIC's require very good bumping technique... Your hand filed keys were not accurate enough with the spacing of the bittings or the depths and pin seats... The geometry of the bittings needs to be uniform as to the ramps between the bittings or you will find you have less than successful results... Especially with the VERY tight machining tolerances with the SFIC locks...

~~ Evan
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