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Can one of you experienced pickers tell me what is going on when I try lifting pins and none of them seem to be binding? Drives me nuts,especially Master Lock padlocks! They just push up and then fall down.
Last edited by Squelchtone on 28 Dec 2013 23:46, edited 2 times in total.
Reason:please make titles have a hint as to what the post is about, this helps in searches for future generations
Two questions before considering my response: Have you tried Top of the Keyway (TOK) tension? Also, have you tried picking in the other direction (turning plug ClockWise instead of Counter-ClockWise / Vice Versa)?
DennisK wrote:Can one of you experienced pickers tell me what is going on when I try lifting pins and none of them seem to be binding? Drives me nuts,especially Master Lock padlocks! They just push up and then fall down.
What lock is this?
Generically, I would ask whether you are actually applying tension? The tension tool could be stuck, or there is not enough tension applied, especially if there is a spring. For example, I once picked a lock, and the cylinder wouldn't turn, because the tension tool was caught in rivets on the base of the padlock (I used the wrench out a bit and then opened it).
YouLuckyFox wrote:Two questions before considering my response: Have you tried Top of the Keyway (TOK) tension? Also, have you tried picking in the other direction (turning plug ClockWise instead of Counter-ClockWise / Vice Versa)?
Yes,tried both
What lock is this?
Generically, I would ask whether you are actually applying tension? The tension tool could be stuck, or there is not enough tension applied, especially if there is a spring. For example, I once picked a lock, and the cylinder wouldn't turn, because the tension tool was caught in rivets on the base of the padlock (I used the wrench out a bit and then opened it).
Do you know about binding order? If not then you might be setting the binding order wrong. The binding order is the order that the pins need to be set in a given rotational direction. This image can apply in real life to most residential door-locks and padlocks (Pin Tumbler only). Let's look at this lock plug for example:
As you can see, some locks have irregularities in their drilling. This is because some pin holes were drilled offset in the manufacturing process.. (Oh well, nothing is quite perfect) This one isn't exactly like everyone lock, but this can be used as a good example. In this lock plug, you need to pick the 2nd or 5th pin before continuing to successfully open the lock, depending on the rotational direction on the plug. This is done by holding tension down on the lock (Clockwise or Counterclockwise) and feeling for a pushy pin, not a springy pin. If this lock works perfectly, you will hear a slight click, or feel a slight stop coming from a single pin. Make sure not to push the pins too hard.Hopefully this helps! Good luck.
HerrMannelig wrote: Try really heavy tension, and lessen it as needed.
I agree. Considering that the lock is functional and you are actually imparting torque on the plug (and haven't jammed up the tension wrench), it sounds like an issue concerning incorrect tension.
Nice illustration KPick!
If you do not manipulate the lock, then the lock will manipulate you
HerrMannelig wrote: Try really heavy tension, and lessen it as needed.
I agree. Considering that the lock is functional and you are actually imparting torque on the plug (and haven't jammed up the tension wrench), it sounds like an issue concerning incorrect tension.
Nice illustration KPick!
Guys I've tried all I know to do (which is amateurish at best),and nothing is working. With heavy tension,it's like I'm pushing on solid metal as far as feedback is concerned.I suspect I have a lot more practice coming in my immediate future! But I do appreciate everyone's suggestions.
DennisK wrote:Guys I've tried all I know to do (which is amateurish at best),and nothing is working. With heavy tension,it's like I'm pushing on solid metal as far as feedback is concerned.I suspect I have a lot more practice coming in my immediate future! But I do appreciate everyone's suggestions.
I have not had this particular lock, but I have had locks which are particularly troublesome compared to the other locks of the same model. The individual manufacturing differences which make picking possible can also sometimes make a lock which is harder to pick than usual.
Or it could just be lack of experience...it is hard to tell sometimes especially if one has not had a lot of samples to work with.
I have a Wilson Bohannan lock which I can sort of pick, but not consistently. It is a basic pin tumbler lock.
Maybe we can swap (and then swap back when we're done)?
Some of the master locks have the anti-bump driver pins. This combined with a very short key pin can make it appear like the pin isn't there. If this is the first binding pin, frustration will commence.
LeeRM wrote:Some of the master locks have the anti-bump driver pins. This combined with a very short key pin can make it appear like the pin isn't there. If this is the first binding pin, frustration will commence.
