medeco repinning

[vytor]

I have a medeco core that I would like to learn on and there is a brass tab on the top. Looks as if it could just slide off but haven't had a bunch of success on this. Maybe it was pressed on any help on that would be great.

Once the tab is off I should have access to the 5 springs and pins so that I can learn the lock a pin at a time. I saw a locksmith/LE learn like this on youtube.

Thanks

[Squelchtone]

a photo would help us a lot, as Medeco makes so many different models and cylinder formats.

Please upload photo to http://tinypic.com/ and then copy the [IMG] link in your reply here.

Thanks!
Squelchtone

[cledry]

I remove the caps with a broken hacksaw blade. With the teeth pointing toward the rear of the cap, tap it onto the cap and tap the front edge to slide the cap off.

[spandexwarrior]

If it's a brass strip it'll be difficult to get back on and you may destroy it in the process. These are generally not intended to be removed unless you plan on replacing it with a new one, they're staked in.

The best bet is to get a plug follower and take the lock apart that way. It can be a pain the first couple of times but it gets easier. If you don't have a key to do this, I would probably look for another lock since removing and replacing the strip over and over isn't really workable. The mortise/rim cylinders have screw caps on the pin chambers and the new KIK cylinders have a blue metal strip with a slit down the middle that springs out to lock - those are idea for you situation.

-Brian

[vytor]

Brian thank you that is what I was working with. What I ended up doing is smoothing the plate down because after it was taken out the brass plate rubbed the cylinder. And, yes this lock does not seem like one that would be rekeyed on a normal basis if at all.

Once I got the plate and lock working correctly I hit the head and toe with a very small amount of solder, could have used glue but this worked better. and even if the 3 pins I left in it at a bit high that is fine cause there is no key. But it is allowing me to work with the lock and get a feel for the angled cuts., pretty cool.

I will be looking for a lock that I can use that has the removable screws for rekeying. Sounds loads easier.

[Squelchtone]

Brian thank you that is what I was working with. What I ended up doing is smoothing the plate down because after it was taken out the brass plate rubbed the cylinder. And, yes this lock does not seem like one that would be rekeyed on a normal basis if at all.

Once I got the plate and lock working correctly I hit the head and toe with a very small amount of solder, could have used glue but this worked better. and even if the 3 pins I left in it at a bit high that is fine cause there is no key. But it is allowing me to work with the lock and get a feel for the angled cuts., pretty cool.

I will be looking for a lock that I can use that has the removable screws for rekeying. Sounds loads easier.

So is this a cam lock, KIK (key in knob), or a rim or mortise cylinder? On most locks you can remove the back cam, tailpiece, or circlip and you can use something called a plug follower, but it requires having a key, picking the lock, or ability to shim. This process allows you to not have to remove any staked in bible covers.

Squelchtone