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combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Forgot how to dial the combination on that old safe? Think you got the right numbers but the handle is stuck? What safe should you buy? Ask your safe questions here!
Forum rules
You are posting this in This Old Safe, a public area of the forum.

Safe manipulation discussion is allowed, but safe drilling or other destructive entry is only allowed in the Advanced - Safes and Safe Locks area.

If you are a guest of the forum and have a safe you need to open, but you do not have the combination, we cannot tell you how or where to drill it.

combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby zandan » 9 Jan 2014 4:11

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
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I have an old safe as shown in the first image above at full view
as approximately 6 feet high, 3 feet deep and 4 feet wide.
Second image is of the two handles that turn on the two doors
to open the doors with the yale lock dial next to the right door handle.
Third image is of the yale combo dial alone.
Fourth image is with the Pacific Safe Equipment Company
label in Los Angeles which I believe to have been the licensee
in Los Angeles to sell this safe.
Fifth image is the brass tag of the manufacturer-The Safe Cabinet
Company of Marietta Ohio.
Sixth image is the serial number of the safe W1578 29 stamped
on the upper left hand front corner on the border of the safe

I've had this safe for approximately 50 years as it passed to me from
my father upon his passing away. Originally the safe was always kept
open with the combination printed on a piece of paper attached to the
inside of the left door. Inadvertently the doors were closed and the
handles turned down which of course locked the safe.

I thought I remembered the combination as a factory standard of
10 20 30 in some order that I have not been able to duplicate correctly.
I've tried it several ways with the six permutations of these three
numbers. I've tried starting with 4 turns right or left and then 3
then 2 then 1 to open. I've also tried the same thing either right
or left with beginning 3 turns only then 2 then 1 with
no positive results.

I do remember that the safe opened when coming
around on the last turn when it tightens up around either 10 and 90 or
10 and 0. Also one of my memories of opening this safe is that once
in a while the second to last number before the safe opened often
had to be offset just a bit to just one or two dial marks either
past the second to last number or before the second to last
number in order to turn the dial to its opening position as
described above.

I know dialing counts every time one of the combo numbers is passed and
you do not want to make a full turn when you come to that
number unless you're repeating the turn for the number of turns needed
for that number in the combination and just stop on it with the last turn to it.
I've tried clearing the wheels with several turns (usually 5 or 6 turns either
right or left) before starting the turns for the combination but this
doesn't help either.

I hope all of this is clear. I've even tried putting in a fourth number like
5, 90, or 60 to see if this is might be a four wheel combo lock with these
additional numbers. On these additional 3 numbers I sometimes
find there is a tightening of the dial when they're passed but still no luck.
I'm 90 percent sure of the 10 20 30 numbers for the combo numbers
with only substitutions with a 5 60 or 90 for one of these three numbers
or added one at a time to the 10 20 30 for a 4 wheel combo lock.

Finding the contact points is rather difficult because the yale dial doesn't
always move very smoothly and the clicks I feel or hear seem to be
deceptive as to whether I'm hearing or feeling the clicks correctly. or
just the wear of the dial itself. I do get squeaks at different times as
well but not all of the time.

I have no manuals for either The Pacific Safe Equipment Company
or The Safe Cabinet Company. Both have long since been out of business.
I have found no references to the The Pacific Safe Equipment
Company at all and The Safe Cabinet Company closed business in about
1950. The Safe Cabinet Company was bought out by various companies
with the last one being Remington Rand but they have no records on
anything either.

I assume the safe was made in the late '30's or '40's from the looks
of it but I really don't know. It is in relatively good shape with no
scars or mars. Unfortunately the lighting for the pictures show the
surface as blemished but all surfaces are completely olive in color.
The Safe Cabinet Company manufactured it with a ME designation,
meaning its security was in the mid range of the safes they
manufactured.

That's about all I know. I've tried to use a stethoscope to hear the
clicks better but the thickness of the doors (they're about 6 to 8 inches
thick in a stepped down fashion) tends to act as a muffle in hearing
the clicks very well.

Don't know where to go from here but just keep trying various offsets
of the combination numbers. Sargent Greenleaf has a pretty good
manual on combo lock manipulation and I've followed the protocols
fairly well but am still trying with no effect. Sometimes I think I'm
on the right track when I can feel the dial tighten up around any of
the numbers above that I've mentioned but again it makes me think
I'm just not doing something right. Is is possible that the turns for
the combo numbers will repeat with the same number of turns for
each number or some numbers like right or left 4 turns to the second
number and then 4 turns to the third number or 3 turns the same
and 3 turns to the second number or what?

I would appreciate any suggestions. I'm going to the locksport meeting
January 17th to see if anyone there might be able to point me in the
right direction. It's a shame that it's locked because the safe is empty.
All locksmiths and combination lock manipulators really want to
basically destroy the safe with hacking out the old lock and
replacing it but this is not what I want to do. The Sargent Greenleaf
Manual has pretty much convinced me that, in their words, most
combo safe locks and be manipulated to open 80 to 90 per cent
of the time without any damage to the safe. I just need some
help here as to what my best course of action needs to be. Or
if there's any hobbyist safe manipulator in the Greater Los Angeles
area who would like to take a crack at it, I'd like to know one.
Last edited by Squelchtone on 9 Jan 2014 8:30, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: fixed your title so it isnt all caps.. all caps on the internet is the same as shouting at someone in real life.
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Re: COMBINATION SAFE LOCK MANIPULATION

Postby GWiens2001 » 9 Jan 2014 6:39

Can not go into details on manipulation of this lock on the open forums. However, since you mention Locksport meetings in the greater LA area, I seem to recall that Datagram posts information on a monthly Locksport meeting in that area.

Look for his thread, and go to the meeting. Bet somebody there would know how to handle the meeting.

Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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Re: COMBINATION SAFE LOCK MANIPULATION

Postby Squelchtone » 9 Jan 2014 8:30

GWiens2001 wrote:Can not go into details on manipulation of this lock on the open forums.



Not quite yet, but I'm working on it ;-)

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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby Squelchtone » 9 Jan 2014 8:43

OP: you said very specifically that you tried the 10-20-30 combination by dailing right 4 3 2 1 or Left or right 3 2 1 .... maybe I'm just misreading you but most safe locks are opened by turning the dial Left AND Right to dial all the numbers, not just all left or all right..

The lock you have looks to me like a Yale 0700 based on the age of the safe, but Yale made so many locks, that it could easily be something else.

I have an old safe with a Yale dial that looks like yours and here are the dialing instructions based on my observations.

Turn Left 3 times past 10 and stop on 10 the 4th time
Turn Right 2 times past 20 and stop on 20 the 3rd time
Turn Left 1 time past 30 and stop on 30 the 2nd time
Turn Right until the dial stops dead. If the dial never stops and lets you keep turning it all the way around, then this wasnt the correct combination.
This should work if your combination is in fact 10-20-30 as you remember it.

good luck,
Squelchtone
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby torontosafecracker » 18 Jan 2014 14:32

A safe tech would most likely try and fix the issue with the binding of the dial. Sticky dials make it difficlt for even an experienced manipultor. 4 3 2 is the right dialing sequence. This is a hand change lock. I have a few references of this safe. I love how you want to keep the safe intact. Its really quite beautiful. Be very careful when steaightening the dial and dont be afraid to have a safetech work on it. If you are a safe tech my apologies but aligning the dial should be in your arsenal of skills. If not get one to work on it. As much fun it would be to open. Its not the easiest lock to learn on. My suggestion would be to start on easier locks then move up. Although some like to do the opposite... my 5 cents

Edit my first reply off my phone. My apologies for butchering the english language hopefully its still legible. Wont be doing that again i get the internet weds...lol
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby torontosafecracker » 18 Jan 2014 14:40

I am not completely sure. Ill go back and check but i think its an Oc5
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby LockDocWa » 18 Jan 2014 22:05

Do you hear or feel gears when you spin the dial?

Yales' with gears always give me a hard time.
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby torontosafecracker » 19 Jan 2014 12:29

It is an OC4 or a OC5 Difference being 2 wheels and driver, and 3 wheels and driver.
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby zandan » 22 Jan 2014 14:58

This is zandan and yes I believe that sometimes I hear
or feel gear movements. I'm not really sure if I'm hearing gear
movements, squeaks or clicks but when I do hear something-the hearing
of whatever reverts to feeling it because the safe walls
are so thick. I have also read from another post from elsewhere
on the internet that the safe manufacturer alternately
called itself 'The Safe Cabinet Company' or 'The Safe Company Laboratories.'

With the former label, which mine is, the post on the name stated
that with the name-The Safe Cabinet Company-the manufacturing
date would have been between 1905 to 1926 and The Safe
Company Laboratories was the name used after 1926. I don't
know if this was really true or not but this safe is in pretty
good shape to be in the earlier time frame. And again,
the company went out of business in approximately 1950
while being part of the Remington Rand corporation with
no manuals or reference materials available.

If this is a gear operated Yale lock, what exactly am I looking at
with getting it opened if the lock does have gears? You mentioned
an Oc5 and another Oc? designation for this lock. What exactly
does this mean in terms of manipulating the lock open or is it just
a label for a Yale gear operated combo lock? I believe it was stated
that there was a reference or whatever someone had to this safe or Yale
lock. Was this a manual or something else? I'd be interested
in any scans on the reference material which could be
posted here or at my email address: zandan@netzero.net

I've tried graphing this lock with the contact points at various places
and this becomes a real b___h with the other noises from the
dial that I believe give me false indications as to just where the gates/CPS are.

I was reading a post on the 'keypicking.com' website and one of the
posts stated that the CPS(contact points) were usually 15 to 25
dial points away from the gates or thereabouts. The post stated that
this was using the '90 degree' method in determining
where the correct CPS were. Is this usually so or is there something
else I should consider? (I assume 90 degrees means the dial is moved
back and forth about 90 degrees either right or left to pick up the
contact points or gates while occasionally turning the dial all the
way around and back to whatever the parking number would be)
and I'm not to sure just where I should work from for parking the dial.

I did watch the post on Youtube of Oldfast wherein he has three videos
of spinning/finding the contactpoint and gates on the three combo
locks he manipulated open. However, these videos are done with
the movements of the spinning done very fast-too fast for me to
see just how many times he did what he did with the amount
of turns back and forth, whether all the way around to the parking
number or whatever he was spinning around to. He had a dial
that moved very freely which isn't the case with my Yale combo
lock because of the sticking and the high and low points(I believe),
on the dial. Also, it would have been helpful for
Oldfast to put a text in the video which stated the numbers for
the combination to open the lock without having to follow his
spinning turns and stopping and restarting the video over and
over to see just what the successful numbers were, but he
didn't text the numbers into the video.

The other post-not Oldfast's- stated that he never did graphing and with
my limited experience in graphing, I can understand why he
doesn't graph. With graphing I get wide variances of
what I believe to be the contact points sometimes and then
later at another time I'll get real tight places for the contact points or
maybe even gates unless the gates are being masked.

Also I'd like some direction on what are called the 'high and low points'
because I find these terms mentioned quite a lot when a safe
combination lock is manipulated and am not quite sure of exactly
when I'm feeling them.

The dial has always had a slight tilt to it even when I opened
it with the combination 10 20 30(in some permutation thereof)
back when my father was alive. It's just too bad the combo
is printed on a piece of paper, taped to the inside of the
left front door with the instructions of 'This safe is never
kept locked' which it never was until it was inadvertently closed.
(I could really shoot the person that did it) I've considered making
a hole in the back of the safe which would be large enough to
put a small camera linked to a computer to read the combo
taped to the inside of the door but really don't want to get
into the hassle of this damage plus there are dividers within
the safe for folders, file doors, etc. and I don't know if the
reading of the combination from the paper attached to the
inside of the door would be that accessible to do so.

I'm not too sure if I'm going at all of this in right way to find the
contact points/gates for this lock. If one of you out there could give
me some pointers on finding the contact points, parking,
recognizing the highs and lows, finding the gates, etc. for this lock; it
would surely be appreciated. And no I'm not a locksmith at all.
I'm a construction contractor and am fairly mechanical as a result
with all that I have to do in construction contract work.

I've alternately used 50 60 70 90 and 0 to park the wheels.
Then I either turn the dial right 4 times to clear everything
out and then go left to determine the right CPS. And the
opposite to find the left CPS. Maybe I'm doing something
wrong here. Any advise out there?

I did go to the Locksport meeting in downtown Los Angeles on January
17 but to no avail as the meeting was geared to opening
tumbler locks. When I talked to the moderator at one of
the breaks and showed him pics of the safe, he gave me a
mounted cutaway combo lock to play with but that's about it
for the help I tried to get until later. I showed the same
pictures of what I've posted here but the only reply was,
'we've opened several safes that have been brought in here,'
but when it was all of sudden realized that this safe of mine
is in the 1500+lb range all interest in doing something with it
seemed to suddenly drop off. I'll probably try to contact
someone there again with a monetary incentive
but with the reception I was getting, I didn't think that the
timing was right to try to do so was at the meeting.

Later, on leaving the meeting on another
one of the breaks, I passed the moderator and his
sidekick outside of the building door and again mentioned my
interest in getting it opened and stated to them that I
wasn't interested in contacting a locksmith with how a
locksmith wants to go about it. They both confirmed
that a locksmith really just wants to drill out the safe/lock
and usually doesn't want to get into much of a manipulation
of the combo lock.

In the Los Angeles area locksmith charges vary from
$350 to $500 for opening a locked safe with no guarantee
of manipulating open the lock; just a guarantee of drilling
the safe/lock open, replacing the lock and generally not
to causing much, if any, damage to the safe.

I earlier mentioned that there was nothing in the safe but
at second glance I believe there might be some paperwork in
it that may relate to things from the past that might
resolve some problems that are current. This is only
a guess but I now have a little more of a reason
to open the safe, even if I'm guessing that there
might be something inside with it only being paperwork.

At this point in time I'd be willing to pay a lock hobbyist at
least $100 or even $200 to assist me in manipulating the
combination lock open. The locksport people are qualified
and for the kind of money I'd be willing to pay, I wouldn't
necessarily require the safe to be manipulated open but
just to point me in the right direction for me to get it open
after their trying to do so even if they're not successful;
and paying them the amount of money mentioned above
after say an hour or two of trying. What does any of you
out there think? I'm in northeast Los Angeles about
3-5 miles from downtown LA, on the boundary of Alhambra
and Los Angeles. Am I missing something here?

Are locksport people just into their own
agenda and don't recognize anything else? Or am I
expecting too much for reasons unknown? In the Locksport
meeting room they had all kinds of gadgetry, computers,
amplifiers, microscopes, various techy stuff, and with all the
clutter, God only knows what else,etc. Don’t get me wrong
it was a good set up for this kind of meeting. I was just
exasperated in not being able to obtain any real help
in opening my locked safe.

Wish I could have had a better reception there but who knows?

Any advise on any or all of the above would be appreciated.
Thank you,Danzan
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby Squelchtone » 22 Jan 2014 16:29

zandan wrote:Are locksport people just into their own
agenda and don't recognize anything else? Or am I
expecting too much for reasons unknown? In the Locksport
meeting room they had all kinds of gadgetry, computers,
amplifiers, microscopes, various techy stuff, and with all the
clutter, God only knows what else,etc. Don’t get me wrong
it was a good set up for this kind of meeting. I was just
exasperated in not being able to obtain any real help
in opening my locked safe.

Wish I could have had a better reception there but who knows?


Look man, I use to run TOOOL Boston meetings for a couple years. If a new guy just walked in out of the blue and said, hey you guys dont know me from Adam but I know what you all do here, so be a good mensch and come help me manipulate this old safe I have. Since most of them are there at the hacker/maker space to pick locks at the locksport meeting, some new comer asking for what is normally considered Advanced info is going to raise eye brows and you will receive little help and maybe even a little cold shoulder, and I think rightfully so since you are not part of their regular group.

You will just have to be patient as you look for help, OR just pay the $500 and get it open. Starting manipulation not knowing anything about locks other than reading Oldfast's articles on modern day S&G 6730 style locks will not really equate to manipulating an OC or OB (Open Bottom) Yale safe lock, it is a different animal. It's like fixing a 1910 Ford Model T while reading a 1990 Toyota Camry manual. I realize these are not the answers you want to hear. I cant do anything but give you straight up facts and be honest with you.

Those old geared locks are a pain in the ass, and reading contact points is not always as clear cut as a modern S&G lock, some of them only have 1 Contact Point, and only if you turn the dial in one direction or the other. I'll look in a book tonight and see if I can post you a photo of what you're working with, but learning to manipulate that lock in a time span of now to 90 days from now would be a tall order. If you still think it was 10 20 30, the only thing that may be wrong right now is the dialing order, or what happens after you dial 10 20 30, do you then go back to 0 ? do you turn until the dial stops? what if you tried 10 30 20 ? or 30 20 10 ?

good luck man, and please be patient with people here, and with people at locksport meetings. Not all locksport types are into safes, in fact I was a locksport picker for 6 years and only just started getting into safes in the last year or so. The guy at the LA meeting may have had a cutaway safe lock because it is a neato thing to have, but that doesnt mean anyone in their club is an expert safe manipulator, or even a rank amateur.

I'll see if I can post a photo of the inside of your safe door later tonight,
Squelchtone
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby Squelchtone » 22 Jan 2014 16:43

Try these instructions, they are from a posting by "Andy" at the all.experts forum, and are different than the ones I posted early on in this thread, so who knows, maybe they'll work.

4 times right to the first number,
3 times left to the second number,
2 times right to the third number,
1 time left until the dial stops.
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby zandan » 22 Jan 2014 20:06

Squelchtone wrote:
zandan wrote:Are locksport people just into their own
agenda and don't recognize anything else? Or am I
expecting too much for reasons unknown? In the Locksport
meeting room they had all kinds of gadgetry, computers,
amplifiers, microscopes, various techy stuff, and with all the
clutter, God only knows what else,etc. Don’t get me wrong
it was a good set up for this kind of meeting. I was just
exasperated in not being able to obtain any real help
in opening my locked safe.

Wish I could have had a better reception there but who knows?


Look man, I use to run TOOOL Boston meetings for a couple years. If a new guy just walked in out of the blue and said, hey you guys dont know me from Adam but I know what you all do here, so be a good mensch and come help me manipulate this old safe I have. Since most of them are there at the hacker/maker space to pick locks at the locksport meeting, some new comer asking for what is normally considered Advanced info is going to raise eye brows and you will receive little help and maybe even a little cold shoulder, and I think rightfully so since you are not part of their regular group.

You will just have to be patient as you look for help, OR just pay the $500 and get it open. Starting manipulation not knowing anything about locks other than reading Oldfast's articles on modern day S&G 6730 style locks will not really equate to manipulating an OC or OB (Open Bottom) Yale safe lock, it is a different animal. It's like fixing a 1910 Ford Model T while reading a 1990 Toyota Camry manual. I realize these are not the answers you want to hear. I cant do anything but give you straight up facts and be honest with you.

Those old geared locks are a pain in the ass, and reading contact points is not always as clear cut as a modern S&G lock, some of them only have 1 Contact Point, and only if you turn the dial in one direction or the other. I'll look in a book tonight and see if I can post you a photo of what you're working with, but learning to manipulate that lock in a time span of now to 90 days from now would be a tall order. If you still think it was 10 20 30, the only thing that may be wrong right now is the dialing order, or what happens after you dial 10 20 30, do you then go back to 0 ? do you turn until the dial stops? what if you tried 10 30 20 ? or 30 20 10 ?

good luck man, and please be patient with people here, and with people at locksport meetings. Not all locksport types are into safes, in fact I was a locksport picker for 6 years and only just started getting into safes in the last year or so. The guy at the LA meeting may have had a cutaway safe lock because it is a neato thing to have, but that doesnt mean anyone in their club is an expert safe manipulator, or even a rank amateur.

I'll see if I can post a photo of the inside of your safe door later tonight,
Squelchtone



Thank you Squelchtone. Anything at this point in time has got to be helpful. Thanks
for the info. If my Yale lock on the safe is really a gear actuated lock, then I would
guess that from what has been said, I've got my work on this cut out for me. I really
don't want to drill it with a locksmith. Anything you've got on this would have to be
helpful. Someone else who commented on my post said they had some type of
reference to this safe/Yale lock and anything from whoever it was would be helpful too.
Thanks again for the heads up on what I'm dealing with.
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby zandan » 23 Jan 2014 2:59

torontosafecracker wrote:A safe tech would most likely try and fix the issue with the binding of the dial. Sticky dials make it difficlt for even an experienced manipultor. 4 3 2 is the right dialing sequence. This is a hand change lock. I have a few references of this safe. I love how you want to keep the safe intact. Its really quite beautiful. Be very careful when steaightening the dial and dont be afraid to have a safetech work on it. If you are a safe tech my apologies but aligning the dial should be in your arsenal of skills. If not get one to work on it. As much fun it would be to open. Its not the easiest lock to learn on. My suggestion would be to start on easier locks then move up. Although some like to do the opposite... my 5 cents

Edit my first reply off my phone. My apologies for butchering the english language hopefully its still legible. Wont be doing that again i get the internet weds...lol



Thanks for reading my post. You state that you either have a safe like this or you have references
to this safe. You've said it's either an OC4 or an OC5 and I believe you stated that it is a Yale gear lock.
For any references you have on this lock, I would appreciate any reference materials you might
post here or any scans of a manual or whatever. This is so I can know just what I'm dealing with.
I was warned by Squelchtone that cracking this safe will not be easy, especially because, if it is
an OC4 or 5, it will only have one contact point. And again any references you might have on
this type of Yale combo lock would be appreciated. You could post anything here or to my
email address of zandan@netzero.net. Again, thanks for the input. I could really use the help.
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby Squelchtone » 23 Jan 2014 3:24

The resource I have only has one pro tip on these safes, and that is to drill and scope. I cannot post the exact procedure here, but it is not complicated. The photo I have shows too much info about the drilling procedure so I cannot post it here, but any generic Google Image search photo of a Yale OC-5 will show you what they look like inside. Be aware that your cabinet is lined with Asbestos, and take proper precautions if drilling any holes into the door.

If the center of your handle to the center of your dial is 4-1/2 inches apart then you have a Yale OC-5 with a front driver wheel.

No other easy tricks were listed for this kind of safe cabinet. I guess the only thing you can do is google the dialing order on an OC-5 and keep trying 10-20-30 until it opens.

Try the following as over time some safe combinations will slip as parts get worn out.. dial 9-20-30, 11-20-30, 10-19-30, 10-21-30, and 10-20-29, 10-20-31 in case one of the wheels is just a little off.

As I already posted, keep trying this dialing order that Andy at all experts provided to someone else:

Andy at all.experts wrote:The standard dialing sequence for most Yale locks (OC5 series) that I would expect to find on this safe, would be:

4 times Right to the first number,
3 times Left to the second number,
2 times Right to the third number,
1 time Left until the dial stops (around 10).

Note: Left is counter clockwise, Right is clockwise. DO NOT count the revolutions of the dial, count the INDIVIDUAL number as it arrives at the 12 o'clock index mark. For instance if your first number is 50, you will turn the dial clockwise (right), stopping the fourth time the number 50 ARRIVES at the index mark.
There is NO STARTING POINT, simply start dialing right and count 50 once, 50 twice, 50 three times, stopping on 50 the fourth time.

Hopefully this helps you.


And seeing that the dial stops around 10.. could your combo be 40-30-20 and the dial stops at 10 but is not really part of the combination it just looks like it?

One of these locks just sold on ebay for a very fair price of $62 dollars, scroll down in the auction, there are very nice photos of the inside, it should give you a good idea of what is going on inside while you turn the dial: www.ebay.com/itm/111256812849 (I recommend saving all the pics are ebay auction photos do not last forever)

Best of luck,
Squelchtone
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Re: combination safe lock manipulation (old locked safe)

Postby femurat » 23 Jan 2014 4:37

Hello zandan, I wish we lived a bit closer to each other. I would have been more than happy to come to your place and manipulate your very cool safe. Since I've never opened one like that I would have tried it for free. I really love safes and locks and I may be the only one in the world willing to do that.

Good luck :)
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