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by keithwins » 27 Jan 2014 18:02
Okay, thanks. Just an idea. I realized only the binding pins would mark, which is why you'd need a complete set. But with, say, 9 quick turns of 9 keys (for a 9-depth cylinder), you could have the entire key spec'ed out. And I thought that if you could figure out a surface treatment that showed marks without having to ding up the key so much (i.e. gentler turns), the keys would last longer and you could reuse. But that's fine, if I get to it I'll play with it some, I'm still just wrapping my head around impressioning. Thanks for your thoughts everyone.
K
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by keithwins » 27 Jan 2014 18:43
Okay, thanks. Just an idea. I realized only the binding pins would mark, which is why you'd need a complete set. But with, say, 9 quick turns of 9 keys (for a 9-depth cylinder), you could have the entire key spec'ed out. And I thought that if you could figure out a surface treatment that showed marks without having to ding up the key so much (i.e. gentler turns), the keys would last longer and you could reuse. But that's fine, if I get to it I'll play with it some, I'm still just wrapping my head around impressioning. Thanks for your thoughts everyone.
K
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by keithwins » 27 Jan 2014 19:26
GWiens2001 wrote:The problem is only the binding pin(s) will mark. No matter what depth the others are at. Gordon
It occurs to me I may still be confused: when impressioning, one isn't "single-pin" impressioning, right? I mean, one works on all pins simultaneously, or is it like SPP where you work on the binding pins first, and work your way through? If so, I totally missed that "subtlety"... Maybe I should restate... as you cut the blank deeper, you will get to the "marking range" of new pins. But in essence, you are finding/adjusting pins in order of depth, vs. in order of binding (as per SPP). Again, I'm just trying to confirm that I understand. k
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by GWiens2001 » 27 Jan 2014 19:34
Sometimes more than one pin impressions, but most frequently only one or two pins at a time will mark.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by keithwins » 27 Jan 2014 19:39
Yes, that makes sense. Those one or two pins make impressions, you file down until they don't, and then they are done. You continue filing others until they begin to make impressions: that's what I meant by you sort of go in order of depth. I think I've got it, thanks for all your help.
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by GWiens2001 » 27 Jan 2014 20:11
Again, yes and no. Sometimes a pin will stop impressioning, but after filing on another pin position for a bit, the previous one starts marking again.
It all comes down to practice.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by keithwins » 27 Jan 2014 20:16
Well that's interesting. I could totally see that with spool pins... can't quite picture it otherwise, but then, ultimately this isn't a picture-it kind of thing, I'd say. Like you say -- practice.
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by GWiens2001 » 27 Jan 2014 20:21
Spool pins will not cause that. The spool pins are driver pins, and are above the shear line during impressioning unless you file too deep.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by YouLuckyFox » 27 Jan 2014 20:58
GWiens2001 wrote:Sometimes more than one pin impressions, but most frequently only one or two pins at a time will mark.
Gordon
Yes, if you impression a lock with lower tolerances, obviously the plug will wiggle more and thus you can get more marks, but generally I've never seen more than 3 marks at a time from any given lock. Also, I've notice that as the impressioning process progresses the plug has more give and I thus get more impression marks. This is a reason why just using one blank would be a good idea. keithwins wrote:It occurs to me I may still be confused: when impressioning, one isn't "single-pin" impressioning, right? I mean, one works on all pins simultaneously, or is it like SPP where you work on the binding pins first, and work your way through? If so, I totally missed that "subtlety"...
The reason you are getting more than one apparent binding pin as opposed to picking is that you turn the plug more when you impression than when you're picking. Think of it this way: ever notice how when you put way too much tension when you pick you bind many if not all pins? That's what happens when you impression. I think the major issue with the decoding method is that if not all pins bound each time, you'd have no idea when you were at shear with a pin or if it just wasn't impressioning. Neat idea though! If all pins bound I could see it being good for legitimate covert work. An FBI operative or otherwise legitimate person could have a keyring with what would look like depth keys and impression all the keys under the guise of "oh which key was it, oh my goodness!" and get a few legitimate marks and come back with a complete key! But all in all I think the quickest way I've seen to impression is to just check for marks and use a key machine. I saw a reposession show on cable once and a repo man had some kind of portable key machine with him and he was able to make a key for this car ignition fairly quickly. I've based what I've said on my experience and what I've read in a recent article on impressioning, but I may have misinterpreted the information. If something doesn't seem right with what I've said, let me know!
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by GWiens2001 » 27 Jan 2014 22:18
Sounds like you got it right, Fox. Gordon
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by billdeserthills » 4 Apr 2014 0:09
GWiens2001 wrote:Sounds like you got it right, Fox. Gordon
I will disagree to the fastest impressioning being with the use of a key machine. The use of a file to cut .015" off each mark on your key is definately faster than using even a curtis clipper (portable clipper key machine) The main tool that nobody has yet mentioned is the 5 to 10 power (or larger) magnifying glass. I use a 10x jewelers loupe in order to view the marks on my key after making my impressions. In fact many will be surprised at just what marks may already exist on many of the keys that are used everyday. Yes impressioning is slow when compared to simply taking apart a house type deadbolt lock and although I have impressioned that type lock I most often use impressioning to make a key to something that I don't wish to take apart, or that cannot be taken apart. For example once the law enforcement folks brought me a master padlock, and asked that I make a key to it. It was not a rekeyable model, but within 25 minutes I had made a key that worked it perfectly. I have impressioned many keys to automobiles as well, in fact I once opened a deadlocked mercedes by hand filing a key to the trunk lock, when I had no other way of unlocking this car. I have many antique padlocks and I have hand filed keys to almost all of them, simply because taking them apart would either destroy the lock, or take more time than hand-filing a key does. Impressioning is to me, a real skill, akin to opening a safe and I can tell you when that key turns, you will get the same feeling in your body that opening that safe or lock gives you!
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