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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 11:50
Has the 5200 changed in the past couple of years? I've disassembled a couple before and replaced drivers with a plug follower. (Using the excellent instructions on this forum, I might add.)
I got a new 5200 and there doesn't seem to be a C-clamp at the end of the cylinder, and the cylinder doesn't push out with a follower. I can still repin the key pins with the holes on the bottom, but can't swap out the drivers or remove a pin entirely for practice purposes.
Is there some way to do this on the newer 5200s?
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nsquidc
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by fgarci03 » 8 Feb 2014 12:43
If I'm not mistaken, they are crimped instead of using a C-clip. You can uncrimp them with a flat screw driver or so, and just crimp them back again. Loads of trouble for me, so I just don't do it 
Go ahead, keep plugging away, picking on me! You will end up on bypass or with rigor mortise. - GWiens2001
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 13:05
fgarci03 wrote:If I'm not mistaken, they are crimped instead of using a C-clip. You can uncrimp them with a flat screw driver or so, and just crimp them back again. Loads of trouble for me, so I just don't do it 
Dang it! I distinctly remember removing a C-clamp on my old 5200, super easy re-pinning. Never should have lost that lock.
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nsquidc
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by fgarci03 » 8 Feb 2014 13:34
nsquidc wrote:fgarci03 wrote:If I'm not mistaken, they are crimped instead of using a C-clip. You can uncrimp them with a flat screw driver or so, and just crimp them back again. Loads of trouble for me, so I just don't do it 
Dang it! I distinctly remember removing a C-clamp on my old 5200, super easy re-pinning. Never should have lost that lock.
Hey but you can still get locks with the C-clip! I know there are both types, and when you mentioned the "newer" ones I assumed that they are crimped now. Not sure though!
Go ahead, keep plugging away, picking on me! You will end up on bypass or with rigor mortise. - GWiens2001
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fgarci03
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 13:41
fgarci03 wrote:nsquidc wrote:fgarci03 wrote:Hey but you can still get locks with the C-clip! I know there are both types, and when you mentioned the "newer" ones I assumed that they are crimped now. Not sure though!
Except they don't exactly advertise that on ebay  Heck, the guy I bought the 5200s from looked at me real suspiciously when I asked if it had the bypass protection and openly questioned why I knew about the bypass.
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nsquidc
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by fgarci03 » 8 Feb 2014 13:46
nsquidc wrote:the guy I bought the 5200s from looked at me real suspiciously when I asked if it had the bypass protection and openly questioned why I knew about the bypass.
Get used to it 
Go ahead, keep plugging away, picking on me! You will end up on bypass or with rigor mortise. - GWiens2001
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fgarci03
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 13:50
Haha! We'll, I think you're right. Mine is crimped. For anyone using this thread as future reference, here's the documentation from MasterLock talking about the crimp and their specialized "Master Lock plug follower." http://www.masterlock.com/pdfs/7000-003 ... _17_19.pdfGuess it's time for me to sand down a wooden dowel... Though does anyone know what's so special about this plug follower? (i.e. how can I make one...)
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by fgarci03 » 8 Feb 2014 13:57
Thanks for the link dude! Very informative 
Go ahead, keep plugging away, picking on me! You will end up on bypass or with rigor mortise. - GWiens2001
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 14:33
fgarci03 wrote:Thanks for the link dude! Very informative 
And I just cut up my hand trying to undo the crimp. Curse you Master Lock!!
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by spandexwarrior » 8 Feb 2014 20:36
I think there is another thread with more info but I believe it was determined that the 5200's for the US Gov't contracts now us the newer, crappier core but there may be others out there that still use the standard one. The new ones I believe have the Master style key bow and K17 keyway. I've never seen the new style core in one with the standard American keyway. Your lock might be a little bit of a challenge to pick since they keyway has that hard 90 degree turn. I've also had some issues with the ones that have that keyway and bump-stop since the feedback is different when the key pin doesn't touch the driver pin, you can't always tell that it's not set.
-Brian
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by GWiens2001 » 8 Feb 2014 21:36
They changed when they switched to the cra* Bump Stop pins. The easy, and non-dangerous method of opening the crimp is to turn the plug so the outside of the keyway is lined up with a crimp, then tap it out with a small screwdriver. Turn it to the other crimp, and tap it out. Then the plug comes out easily. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 21:47
GWiens2001 wrote:They changed when they switched to the cra* Bump Stop pins. The easy, and non-dangerous method of opening the crimp is to turn the plug so the outside of the keyway is lined up with a crimp, then tap it out with a small screwdriver. Turn it to the other crimp, and tap it out. Then the plug comes out easily. Gordon
Great suggestion -- thanks. Too late for my bleeding index finger, but something for next time 
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nsquidc
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by nsquidc » 8 Feb 2014 21:51
spandexwarrior wrote:I think there is another thread with more info but I believe it was determined that the 5200's for the US Gov't contracts now us the newer, crappier core but there may be others out there that still use the standard one. The new ones I believe have the Master style key bow and K17 keyway. I've never seen the new style core in one with the standard American keyway. Your lock might be a little bit of a challenge to pick since they keyway has that hard 90 degree turn. I've also had some issues with the ones that have that keyway and bump-stop since the feedback is different when the key pin doesn't touch the driver pin, you can't always tell that it's not set.
-Brian
I haven't re-pinned anything with a bump-stop before -- anything to look out for during the process? And yes, that keyway is a beast.
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nsquidc
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by spandexwarrior » 8 Feb 2014 22:55
nsquidc wrote:spandexwarrior wrote:I haven't re-pinned anything with a bump-stop before -- anything to look out for during the process?
For Bump Stop to "work" it has to be matched with a 0,1,2 key pin for Master or 1,2,3 key pin for American. They're the same depths/lengths, Master and American just have a different numbering scheme and I don't know what that cylinder uses since it's kind of a bastardization of both company's tech. -Brian
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by GWiens2001 » 8 Feb 2014 23:33
The bible of the Bump Stop cylinders has slightly larger diameter pin channels, so the bump stop pin (which has a larger diameter than the key pins) can not drop down into the channel. If memory serves me correctly, there are specific pin locations the Bump Stop pin can/can not be used in.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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