Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by spandexwarrior » 18 Feb 2014 12:01
teamstarlet wrote:phrygianradar wrote:I have the Peterson tension wrenches that help get the control pick by grabbing the control lug (or at least trying to), but the first time I picked an SFIC I did not use one and it took a long time. Sometimes they pick to control really easy, sometimes they don't… At all!
How do you find the Peterson SFIC Tension Wrenches? They look really useful but they're crazy expensive for what they are.
They can be useful once in a while, but unless you're a professional (meaning you will be drilling out the core if you can't pick to control and need to have all possible options available), they're probably not worth it. There are other ways to target the control shear line if you really have to, maybe not quite as reliable depending on the lock, but the specialized tension tools are no guarantee either. I've spent a ton of money on tools that I never use so my advise is to think carefully about specialized and expensive gear before you buy it. -Brian
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spandexwarrior
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by teamstarlet » 18 Feb 2014 12:21
phrygianradar wrote:About the Peterson wrenches; you can make your own if you are careful and have some streetsweeper bristle or wiper blades. There is a template around here somewhere for them. Or you can just make the measurements yourself. You can PM me if you want to about it. I have made my own...after spending the unneccessary money on the Peterson ones, which are nice, but still. They are certainly not neccessary for picking SFIC locks to control; I think you figured that out already. To be honest, I don't use them all that often when picking an SFIC lock. You can feel what shear line you are picking if you pay close attention to the feel of it most of the time. At least, that is what I think on the subject. However, if you still want to buy one or two, I would only get the thick one or the medium sized one ( I think they are sold separately), I have never used the thinnest with any success. And there are some other tricks to using them that will help too. I would try to make one first if you have a Dremel...or even just a file.
You are doing really well and it is cool to watch your progression, keep it up!
Thanks for the encouragement. It's a great feeling learning and mastering a new skill. I think I will have a crack at making my own SFIC wrench... I'll let you know how it goes.
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teamstarlet
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by teamstarlet » 18 Feb 2014 12:23
spandexwarrior wrote:There are other ways to target the control shear line if you really have to, maybe not quite as reliable depending on the lock, but the specialized tension tools are no guarantee either. I've spent a ton of money on tools that I never use so my advise is to think carefully about specialized and expensive gear before you buy it.
That's interesting... Are you able to elaborate on the other methods? Are there any methods to target the 'operation' sheer line instead?
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teamstarlet
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by spandexwarrior » 18 Feb 2014 12:31
teamstarlet wrote:spandexwarrior wrote:There are other ways to target the control shear line if you really have to, maybe not quite as reliable depending on the lock, but the specialized tension tools are no guarantee either. I've spent a ton of money on tools that I never use so my advise is to think carefully about specialized and expensive gear before you buy it.
That's interesting... Are you able to elaborate on the other methods? Are there any methods to target the 'operation' sheer line instead?
There is a thread on one of the other sites, I will find it and send you a PM. -Brian
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by teamstarlet » 18 Feb 2014 13:03
spandexwarrior wrote:There is a thread on one of the other sites, I will find it and send you a PM.
BAM! Worked like a charm. Great article thanks Brian. Minutes after reading it I managed to get the Arrow picked to operation using the counter-clockwise picking method. 
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by mechanical_nightmare » 22 Feb 2014 5:52
Today I finally picked my Vachette Euro Cylinder:  I have had this lock for months, but couldn't pick it and never really made a concerted effort until now. It has no security pins, but the bitting is evil and the tolerances are really tight. I used heavy tension to increase the feedback, along with one of my curved hooks and the DeForest diamond, and voila...
If you do not manipulate the lock, then the lock will manipulate you
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by GWiens2001 » 22 Feb 2014 6:55
Very nice, MN. Those Vachette locks certainly do have serious bitting and keyways! Gordon Oh, what I picked yesterday...  Wise-Lock padlock. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by teamstarlet » 22 Feb 2014 10:33
mechanical_nightmare wrote:Today I finally picked my Vachette Euro Cylinder
Nice work! That really does look like challenging biting. Gordon - I saw your post of how to pick and make a key for the Wise-Lock. Quite the interesting lock.
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by GWiens2001 » 22 Feb 2014 22:31
Just a note on your key pins... #1 and #2 size key pins are too short to be serrated.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Divinorum » 22 Feb 2014 22:40
GWiens2001 wrote:Just a note on your key pins... #1 and #2 size key pins are too short to be serrated.
Gordon
I was curious about that. The other American I have, all the key pins have serrations. I'm guessing if they put serrations on the shorter pins the lock would not work smoothly?
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by KPick » 22 Feb 2014 23:42
Good pick divinorium. Do you think you're good enough to pick those serrated pins over and over, or is that a one time thing?
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by GWiens2001 » 23 Feb 2014 0:07
Divinorum wrote:GWiens2001 wrote:Just a note on your key pins... #1 and #2 size key pins are too short to be serrated.
Gordon
I was curious about that. The other American I have, all the key pins have serrations. I'm guessing if they put serrations on the shorter pins the lock would not work smoothly?
The serrations would not reach the shear line. The key could not lift the pins that high due to the keyway height. #1 reaches the shear line at the full height of the keyway. #2 would barely block the shear line at full height, but would not go high enough to have the serration reach the shear line. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Divinorum » 23 Feb 2014 4:36
GWiens2001 wrote:Divinorum wrote:GWiens2001 wrote:Just a note on your key pins... #1 and #2 size key pins are too short to be serrated.
Gordon
I was curious about that. The other American I have, all the key pins have serrations. I'm guessing if they put serrations on the shorter pins the lock would not work smoothly?
The serrations would not reach the shear line. The key could not lift the pins that high due to the keyway height. #1 reaches the shear line at the full height of the keyway. #2 would barely block the shear line at full height, but would not go high enough to have the serration reach the shear line. Gordon
Thanks for the explanation Gordon. KPick wrote:Good pick divinorium. Do you think you're good enough to pick those serrated pins over and over, or is that a one time thing
Definitely not a one time thing. Since opening this lock I have picked it a bunch of times. Each time getting more proficient. Didn't count but I probably picked it about 10-12 times because I was so happy I finally got it and could not stop lol. When I first bought it I tried and failed hard, but after practicing with Mr.Wizards lock I have gotten a lot more practice with security pins and it paid off.

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by Harry Tuttle » 23 Feb 2014 18:14
Abus EC75... one of three dimple locks in my collection. With a z-wrench and a small diamond pick.
The Mul-T-Lock 7x7 remains undefeated, but is now looking worried, and the Sargent Keso remains smugly impenetrable.
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