Schlage interconnected lock disassembly

[sharpstick]

I recently purchased an old house. The key for the front door was missing. I wanted to have it rekeyed to match the other doors and purchased a Prime-line rekeying kit. The Schlage locks all have "C" type keys. The problem is disassembly. This lock has the knob and deadbolt integrated(interconnected?). They have a single rectangular metal cover plate for both parts with no mounting screws. Turning the knob from the inside unlocks the deadbolt if it is locked so there is a mechanical interlock between the knob and the deadbolt. The deadbolt and knob are several inches apart
My problem is disassembly. I can remove the interior knob, but I can't figure out how to proceed.
The locks are at least ten years old. The house was built in 1979, but there is an old circle visible in the paint peeking out from under the rectangular plate, so this lock must be newer than that.
I don't have pics, but there isn't much to see. The deadbolt has no screws or other features visible besides the keyhole. The knobs are spherical with no other visible features. The inner one has a small slot at the base where I can release the knob itself. No indication of anything else.
One suggestion was that it is an old "G" series c. 1980s, but I can't find any info on that. He said that there is a release tab under the plate. I'll try to find that when I'm back at the house next weekend, but as I recall, there is little play in the plate. I'll take pics then if it helps.
Worse case, I'll take power tools to it and replace the both of the things with a nice modern lever set.
Any suggestions are welcome.

[Squelchtone]

I recently purchased an old house. The key for the front door was missing. I wanted to have it rekeyed to match the other doors and purchased a Prime-line rekeying kit. The Schlage locks all have "C" type keys. The problem is disassembly. This lock has the knob and deadbolt integrated(interconnected?). They have a single rectangular metal cover plate for both parts with no mounting screws. Turning the knob from the inside unlocks the deadbolt if it is locked so there is a mechanical interlock between the knob and the deadbolt. The deadbolt and knob are several inches apart
My problem is disassembly. I can remove the interior knob, but I can't figure out how to proceed.
The locks are at least ten years old. The house was built in 1979, but there is an old circle visible in the paint peeking out from under the rectangular plate, so this lock must be newer than that.
I don't have pics, but there isn't much to see. The deadbolt has no screws or other features visible besides the keyhole. The knobs are spherical with no other visible features. The inner one has a small slot at the base where I can release the knob itself. No indication of anything else.
One suggestion was that it is an old "G" series c. 1980s, but I can't find any info on that. He said that there is a release tab under the plate. I'll try to find that when I'm back at the house next weekend, but as I recall, there is little play in the plate. I'll take pics then if it helps.
Worse case, I'll take power tools to it and replace the both of the <censored> things with a nice modern lever set.
Any suggestions are welcome.

Hello and welcome to the forum. as they say a picture is worth one thousand words, and with so many different models out there, to make sure someone here can give you a good answer it would help to have photos to look at.

if you could take some shots of both sides of the door, the edge of the door, and maybe a few close ups, someone here should know how to take it apart.

to upload photos please use one of the public image servers either http://tinypic.com/ or http://imgur.com/ and then Copy/Paste the link here.

Thank you,
Squelchtone

[LockDocWa]

At the very bottom of the interior rectangle plate you should find
a spring loaded retainer. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it in.
Pull up on the interior plate at the same time.
Once the interior plate is off you will see the screws needed to disassemble the lock.

PHOTOS !!

[averagejoe]

Sounds like a Schalge G series. Discontinued a long time ago. On another forum one was recently featured and it is quite a cool lockset.

[cledry]

At the very bottom of the interior rectangle plate you should find
a spring loaded retainer. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it in.
Pull up on the interior plate at the same time.
Once the interior plate is off you will see the screws needed to disassemble the lock.

PHOTOS !!

It should also show you the correct way to orient the deadbolt tailpiece depending on your door handing.

[sharpstick]

At the very bottom of the interior rectangle plate you should find
a spring loaded retainer. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it in.
Pull up on the interior plate at the same time.
Once the interior plate is off you will see the screws needed to disassemble the lock.

PHOTOS !!

That worked1 I didn't notice the slot at the bottom of the plate. I was able to extract the cylinder, but am now stuck again. The cylinder has a spring loaded pin on the inside end that doesn't seem to do anything. There is a narrow plate slid into the top slot that has two dimples holding it in place. I suppose I can drill or otherwise force that out and expose the pins. Replace the pins and then fabricate a replacement plate to lock them in.
Tomorrow I will post pics.
Fun chinese puzzle!

[sharpstick]

I suspect that the "proper" way to disassemble is with the key, which I don't have. I guess it's time to see if I can pick this lock. https://plus.google.com/photos/104999372979907065893/albums/6001406135791179521
UPDATE - I just tried all my other keys and discovered that the workshop key fits this lock. Problem solved.

[cledry]

I suspect that the "proper" way to disassemble is with the key, which I don't have. I guess it's time to see if I can pick this lock. https://plus.google.com/photos/104999372979907065893/albums/6001406135791179521
UPDATE - I just tried all my other keys and discovered that the workshop key fits this lock. Problem solved.

You don't need the key to rekey it. You can shim it, pick it, or remove the cap as well.

[sharpstick]

DIY repinning kits must have been invented and marketed by a locksmith to generate business.
"Buy this kit and save money by avoiding the locksmith!"
The average user will dutifully follow the instructions and some of them will be happy customers. I have no professional locksmithing experience, but am reasonably handy and like to consider myself to be of at least average intelligence. Sometimes this gets me into a lot of trouble and makes my wife roll her eyes and make popcorn. (I'm reminded of that one ill fated plumbing incident that involved the air compressor and a modified plunger but I digress.)
Apparently I started this whole repinning project wrong when I discovered that the workshop key worked on my house door lock. This was unexpected. The back locking ring was already removed. I was surprised when it turned the cylinder and inadvertently pulled on it, allowing all the teensy weensy pins and springs to escape in a dramatic fashion! And bending one of the springs in the process. In a panic, I carefully undertook a search and rescue operation, with several playful cats assisting in the process. I was able to round up all the parts from the carpet and cat hair dustbunnies and carefully relocated the whole operation to the front porch which has a tile floor(and a 300 lb table, which didn't seem important at the time.) I then reread the instructions and saw the part that said: "CAUTION! DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER UNTIL THE FOLLOWER TUBE IS IN PLACE AND THE INSTRUCTIONS TELL YOU TO! FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS PROPERLY MAY RESULT IN THE LOSS OF HUNDREDS OF TEENSY WEENSY PARTS THAT ARE TOO COMPLEX FOR YOU TO UNDERSTAND WITHOUT A PHD OR LOCKSMITHING CERTIFICATE. IF YOU ARE SO STUPID THAT YOU DIDN'T READ THIS PART AND DID THAT ANYWAY, PROCEED TO APPENDIX "XX" FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS." With a sigh of undeserved relief, I proceeded to Appendix "XX", which provides a seemingly simple procedure for replacing the aforementioned teensy weensy parts. I carefully inserted the first spring and pin into the first hole with little effort and inserted the follower tube with a sigh of relief. "This is a piece of cake." I muttered while popping open the first beer of celebration. The second set of teensy weensy parts had to be inserted from the other end of the cylinder, while the follower tube held the first set(which I could tell was diabolically planning to regain its freedom) in place. To accomplish this, you must hold the cylinder with one hand, steady the follower tube with the other hand and insert the spring and pin with tweezers with the other hand. Hmmm. After a dozen attempts of this, realization dawned that I only have two hands and went out to the workshop to get a vise to hold the cylinder.
(I suspect that about this time, the average clueless DIY person would have screamed in frustrated aggravation(or frustrated aggravation?), throw all the teensy weensy parts he or she could find into a sack, carry it down to a locksmith, and agree to pay any amount to just have it fixed. Not me, though. I have this persistent OCD thing that just never gives up.)
Once more. With the cylinder firmly gripped in the vise and the follower tube taped safely in place, I had both hands free to insert the teensy weensy parts with the tweezers. I quickly inserted the first set(I'm experienced at this now!), I then hesitantly pushed the second set of teensy weensy parts through the cylinder toward its hole. After about twenty attempts, I quickly had success!
After all this practice, I was able to get the remaining three sets into their places and reassemble the lock.
Overall, I give this product 3 out of 4 thumbs up(I would have given it a 4, but the plastic tweezers were kind of flimsy.), but YMMV, caveat emptor and all that.