Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by GWiens2001 » 15 Apr 2014 13:06
Put the narrow end of the serrated driver pin against the key pin.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Airmaxx23 » 15 Apr 2014 13:32
GWiens2001 wrote:Put the narrow end of the serrated driver pin against the key pin.
Gordon
That's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.
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by silvfox1200 » 15 Apr 2014 17:44
I picked an American Padlock with 6 pins and loaded with serrated and spool pins. worked on it for about an hour before it open.
Thanks
James
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by GWiens2001 » 15 Apr 2014 17:59
Non-cutaway from Snowyboy. Don't know what brand of lock it is, but it is a pin-in-pin design with outer pins that are much smaller than Mul-T-Lock. Five pin stacks plus another stack that looks to be for an interactive. If you know what brand it is, please let me know!  Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by mhole » 16 Apr 2014 0:28
Pretty sure that is a multi lock Gordon - mt5. The swedish oval counterbores for the fixing screws means there's no room for a logo.
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by GWiens2001 » 16 Apr 2014 7:49
Thank you, mhole.  Should have recognized it.  Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Mike6158 » 16 Apr 2014 17:38
I haven't been at this very long. A few days ago I picked up a Master #5 and it almost fell open. I picked it about 5 times in a row just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. As I've read thru this site I've seen than the #5 isn't a very difficult lock to pick <<-- understatement
Next I tackled an American 5200... I'm still tackling an American 5200... no luck so far I can't even get a false set so I'm wondering if I am using the wrong pick (don't think so)?
Today I found a Master #3 in my toolbox so I gave it a whirl. I've picked it twice and for the first time I could feel the pins set. It was harder than the #5 but not difficult. That said, I picked it a couple of times and then that was it. I can't get it to open.
Last thing- I have SouthOrd picks and I like them but they aren't comfortable to hold. Is that normal or am I holding them too tight? If it's normal I may consider picking up a set of picks with handles (like maybe from Peterson?)
It's hard to solve an equation if every term is an unknown. Zeros matter 73 NE5U Photos
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by mechanical_nightmare » 17 Apr 2014 7:30
Job well done l0ckcr4ck3r, did you make the wrench or buy it?
If you do not manipulate the lock, then the lock will manipulate you
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by Airmaxx23 » 17 Apr 2014 9:10
Mike6158 wrote:I haven't been at this very long. A few days ago I picked up a Master #5 and it almost fell open. I picked it about 5 times in a row just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. As I've read thru this site I've seen than the #5 isn't a very difficult lock to pick <<-- understatement
Next I tackled an American 5200... I'm still tackling an American 5200... no luck so far I can't even get a false set so I'm wondering if I am using the wrong pick (don't think so)?
Today I found a Master #3 in my toolbox so I gave it a whirl. I've picked it twice and for the first time I could feel the pins set. It was harder than the #5 but not difficult. That said, I picked it a couple of times and then that was it. I can't get it to open.
Last thing- I have SouthOrd picks and I like them but they aren't comfortable to hold. Is that normal or am I holding them too tight? If it's normal I may consider picking up a set of picks with handles (like maybe from Peterson?)
My guess is that since you're still pretty new and you just haven't gotten used to feel for holding the picks. The 5200 requires really light tension on the wrench and a Peterson pry bar works much better than a regular tension wrench. Have you removed a couple pins and tried it with just 3 to get a feel for it? My 5200 only has 1 sporated pin so I don't get a false set until I've set all of the pins but the last one. I've been doing this for about a month and I have a Southord PXS-14 set along with a few slim Southord picks. The slim picks are definitely easier to use with the 5200s. Here's a pic of the 2 picks I use most and the .050 Peterson pry bar. 
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by Mike6158 » 17 Apr 2014 9:29
What did you use to sleeve the SouthOrd picks? I don't have either of those. I have the MPXS-14 set. I have two picks like those but they are longer and they don't have the gentle angle that yours do. (right after I saved my edit the mail lady dropped of my C1500 pick set so I have a few more picks to try and I have the two that you showed)
I am definitely new at this. I've tried all kinds of tension and the pins all move without any binding. That's what's tripping me up. With Master's I can feel a pin bind but Master locks aren't exactly known for their picking difficulty
I took the lock apart yesterday and it has 6 pin positions but only 5 pins are used. Apparently that is fairly common. It has the blocking shim and it's not the cheaped down lock that Master created when they bought American (so says YouTube anyway).
It's hard to solve an equation if every term is an unknown. Zeros matter 73 NE5U Photos
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Mike6158
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by Airmaxx23 » 17 Apr 2014 10:23
Mike6158 wrote:What did you use to sleeve the SouthOrd picks? I don't have either of those. I have the MPXS-14 set. I have two picks like those but they are longer and they don't have the gentle angle that yours do. (right after I saved my edit the mail lady dropped of my C1500 pick set so I have a few more picks to try and I have the two that you showed)
I am definitely new at this. I've tried all kinds of tension and the pins all move without any binding. That's what's tripping me up. With Master's I can feel a pin bind but Master locks aren't exactly known for their picking difficulty
I took the lock apart yesterday and it has 6 pin positions but only 5 pins are used. Apparently that is fairly common. It has the blocking shim and it's not the cheaped down lock that Master created when they bought American (so says YouTube anyway).
My set came with them but I ordered extras for the slim picks. Here is a link to the sleeves... http://www.lockpickshop.com/VG-9.html. The slim picks are #7, #8 and #9. Try taking a couple pins out and see if you can get it with just 3 pins.
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by teranaut » 18 Apr 2014 13:39
Hey guys and gals. Got completely overwhelmed by work and school the last few months and haven't had a ton of time for picking and pictures. Here's a group I tackled today while on a web meeting about goals. It's a pair of Schlage "Grade 2" cores (brass) from a double keyed deadbolt and a pair of Schlage "Grade 3" cores (nickel) also from a double keyed deadbolt. The "Grade 3" feels more difficult to pick in that the springs are definitely tougher than the "Grade 2" cores. The "Grade 2" cores have four spool stacks and one regular stack, and I imagine the "Grade 3" has a similar setup. The workings didn't feel crunchy so I doubt there are any serrated pins in them. The one in the back is a six wafer lock from a desk that was destroyed at work. I just happened to walk by the recycle bins and saw it; get this, the key was STILL in the drawer! What a score! There are four cutouts already in the bible so it makes a good demo lock. The difficulty is about the same as a typical wafer desk lock; not high. The biggest challenge is just keeping the wrench in the keyway without totally blocking tool access. Thanks for reading; happy picking. 
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