SC/KW keyed padlocks

[victorylocksmith]

i am thinking about peddling more padlocks. usually when i sell padlocks, they want the cheapest possible. i realize that these people are foolish and care more about saving a few dollars than, protecting their prized possessions.

i believe, if i were to find the right people who want to spend more for a better product, the best action would be to provide padlocks that are keyed to the same code of keys they already use. what is a good lock that is decently priced, that fits these parameters? also, how does one go about rekeying a padlock with a KW/SC keyway? if anyone has any suggestions for how much to charge for these padlocks, it would be appreciated as well.

[jeffmoss26]

Abus 83/45 series are available in Schlage and Kwikset keyways, I think LSDA also makes a similar product.

[victorylocksmith]

Abus 83/45 series are available in Schlage and Kwikset keyways, I think LSDA also makes a similar product.

What is the process if rekeying these padlocks like?

[spandexwarrior]

I agree, these are a good choice. The 'Titalium' ones come in many colors, I think street price for retail is about $20 so you should be able to get them for less wholesale. They have an ez-rekey feature (I think that's what it's called) where all you need to do is remove the screw that holds in the plug/housing, remove it and push in a detent and turn the key to a 'window' cut in the plug/housing that exposes the key pins. They're setup with 4 spools and one standard from the factory and come with 1 blank - the lock ships 0-bitted. They also have a Z-bar feature where you leave in or remove a small z-shaped bar to switch from key retaining to non key retaining.

-Brian

[GWiens2001]

Open the lock, remove the phillips screw from inside the shackle toe hole, and the cylinder drops out of the lock. Put in the current key, turn it 180 degrees, and allow the pins to drop out of the holes at the bottom of the lock cylinder.

Remove the old key, put in the new key, install the new key pins, and turn the pluyg back to the locked position and remove the key. Test it a couple of times to be sure it is working properly. You do not want to have it fail inside the padlock body!

Put the lock cylinder back into the body - make sure the cam is replaced in proper position before installing the lock cylinder into the padlock!!!. Do not yet install the screw!

Now use the key to unlock the lock - to make sure it works properly to unlock the padlock. If it does not work, you can remove the lock cylinder and find out why - usually the cam is in the wrong place. The lock cylinder can be removed at this stage if you have not installed that screw. If it does work properly, then unlock the padlock and install the screw in the shackle toe hole. Again, retest. Then you are done.

It sounds more complex than it is, but can not overemphasize the importance of that cam! More than one person, including myself, have been locked out of their lock by forgetting that cam.

Gordon

[spandexwarrior]

So for the "Series 2" locks which I believe is all that is available now, here's a pic of the pinning window.



Unless you have to add a 6th pin or replace the drivers/springs, keying these up is super easy. If you have to pull the plug out, just be careful to not allow the detent pin to get lined up with the pin chambers since it will spring in and be a huge pain to remove.

And a link to the Abus catalog that has some more info and images. http://www.abus.com/us/content/download/23715/633803/file/201401%20-%2083%20Brochure.pdf

-Brian

[jeffmoss26]

Yeah, they are very easy to work on.

[billdeserthills]

I stock these padlocks in my van and I will tell you not very many get sold. They cost about $17.95 and that is my price, so I double that price-now we are at $35--Good luck finding a homeowner who wants that padlock now and we haven't even rekeyed it yet. I would have a few in a common kwikset keyway and also the schlage c-k keyway which is a #3000. Also I like to stock some brass 2" keyed alike padlocks for when the client says "No" to the $35 padlock. Don't forget to let your client know that when they have gates opening into their pool area that they could be held liable if a neighborhood child were to drown in their pool, that has sold many padlocks for me in the past. Also if you want to be competative with all the lowes, home depots, walmarts, and all the other folks trying to steal from your pocket you might like to check out US Lock. They sell an entire line of padlocks, house locks & ect that are imported, but marked US Lock. These items cost You less and they are not the same as everyone else sells, which makes it hard for clients to easily compare your product to what the home store sells. Call them & ask for a catalog (800)925-5000

[cledry]

We sell a lot of these Abus padlocks to our commercial accounts. I guess all padlocks combined we average 40 to 80 a week. Most are at least Maser 1 UPs, we also sell a fair number of Sesame locks.

[2octops]

We sell a ton of 83/45 padlocks to our commercial customers. Between markup and masterkeying they retail out to around $75 per lock. It's a good, quick money maker.

There are a lot of other mfg's that sell similar locks. Most major mfg's sell a padlock (even Master) that can use standard KIK cylinders as long as you use the correct tail piece so the keyways are almost endless.

We used to sell a lot of LSDA and US Lock but now mainly use Master Pro Series and Abus 83/45's.

[Dan82]

I use ABUS. You can get them less the cylinder and use any universal KIK cylinder