Does anyone want to assist me, making my Lock Picks

[Guest3123]

Do you want to help or give some assistance?

Here's my shopping list, so far. With an explanation of what the item will be used for, for the project that I'm going to be working on.

** http://www.OnlineMetals.com/ **
01. 12x 1095 FUll Hard 0.025" Feeler Guage - $041.42 (The Lock Picks)
02. Titanium Grade 2, 1/8" x 1' (x3) $010.41 (Pins for the Wooden Handles)
03. Titanium Cutting Fee $001.50

TOTAL ---------------------------------------------> $053.33
Shipping ------------------------------------------> $026.25
Online Metals TOTAL -------------------------------> $079.58
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** Lowes **
01. Dremel EZ456B Cut-Off Wheel 12pk. $021.00 (To Cut & Shape the Feeler Gauge into Lock picks)
02. 3M Safety Glasses - $010.00 ( Have you ever had a piece os steel go threw your eye? )
03. Dremel Wood Cutting Wheel EZ544 $016.00 ( To Work with wood, Wooden Handles, etc. )
04. 1 x 4 x 4 Kiln-Dried Maple Board $008.76 (Nice Hardwood)
05. 1 x 4 x 4 Kiln-Dried Oak Board $008.42 (Nice Hardwood)
06. 220 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper (Gator) 4pk $003.00 (Sand the Picks to a mirror finish)
07. 400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper (3M) Wet/Dry 5Pk. $004.00 (Sand the Picks to a mirror finish)
08. 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper (3M) Wet/Dry 5Pk. $004.00 (Sand the Picks to a mirror finish)
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LOWES TOTAL AFTER TAXES $079.69
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** Auto Zone **
01. 800 Grit (3M) Dry/Wet - 1Pk. $008.00 (Sand the Picks to a mirror finish)
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AUTO ZONE TOTAL AFTER TAXES $008.00
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** Wal-Mart **
01. HP 901 Black Ink $016.00 (Print the Custom Vector Templates I made in InkScape)
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Wal-Mart Total After Taxes $017.00
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** Marzen Hardware Store **
01. LOCTITE Metal/Concrete EPOXY $008.00 (To hold the wood to the 1095 Steel, and to put in the holes for the pins)
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Marzen's Hardware Store Total After Taxes $008.48
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GRAND TOTAL AFTER TAXES $192.75




So I'm going to be making nice lock pick Hoocks, City Rakes, & Bogota lock picks using my Dremel.

I have a $35, 160 Piece Kit.. That comes with a crap load of Sanding Barrels, Disks, 4 Abrasive Cutting Disks, etc. etc.

Here's a Picture of it.




Printing out the custom vector templates I made in InkScape. Glue or Gorilla Epoxy the template to the metal, and with a downward cutting motion, going to cut & trim the picks out of the 1095 High Carbon Steel 0.025" Feeler Gague I'm going to be ordering from OnlineMetals.com

I'm probably going to slice the metal first, as close to the outlines of the vector templates, then I'm going to grind away, again using my Dremel. That's why I'm getting a 12 pack from Lowes of Abrasive 1 1/2" EZ456B Cutting disks. If I really need to, I'll get a Diamond disk which wont go over an additional $22.

Wanna see the vector templates, here ya go. This is my design, for my lock picks.





And the Tension Wrenches will be made out of Stainless Steel Chef Knives & Metal Windshield Wiper Blade Inserts, that I just so happened to get from Advanced Auto Parts Store yesterday. They have a recycle bin right in front of the main entrance exclusively, just for old windshield wiper blades. I'm actually planning on going back there, Thursday and getting whatever they have there. I think they might empty the bin everyday. So it might be worth just going everyday to get them & take em home and take the metal (Spring Steel) inserts out, and throw away the rest in the trash.


Take a look.. Like I said, going to be getting MORE OF EM






My Friend actually had a piece of 1/2" (T) x 6" (W) x 4' (L) Pine Wood left over from a little project we did a couple weeks ago. It's pretty nice wood, but not as nice as the wood I'm going to be getting from Lowes, which will have NO KNOTS, and will be Oak or Maple.

With that piece of Pine, I practiced my thin strip cutting on my friends 8" Craftsman Table Saw. I practiced cutting, because despite other power tools I've used, I've never used a Table Saw before. I've used a wet saw, chop saw, bench grinder, nail gun, hand grinder, etc.

So it was fun & a little challenging at first, because I had to practice making 1/8" cuts, or strips for the handle (Scales) for the full tang lock pick handle.. So here's a little image of how well I did, and I know now that I need to make it just a c*** hair thicker then 1/8", and my wooden scales will be PERFECT.. But here's an image of how well I did today. take a look. Maybe I'll make a video, or better yet, I really should have done a video of me practicing doing it on the Table Saw today, but.. whatever.. Anyways, here's a high Res. Image of my 1/8" Strips & 1ct. 1/4" strip I made out of pine wood.





So until Friday, when I get paid, I'm actually doing pretty well on this project, and I haven't even bought anything yet


Does anyone think I really need to buy a Caliper & Burzomatic Torch w/14.1 oz. MAPP Gas Cylinder?


Let me know what you guys think of my project, I'd be really happy to hear some comments and, or some suggestions.

[GWiens2001]

Two concerns that spring to mind are related to your pick designs.

First, your hooks, being large and angular on the end, may be difficult to maneuver inside a keyway. You may need to adjust the shape to me more rounded and narrow, though a flat tip (or even slightly rounded inward) to help keep the pick on the pin may help.

The second is on the ramp closest to the handle on your L rake (city rake, or whatever you call it) is too steep - it will very likely get trapped and held in place inside the lock by the pins. You may want to have it less sharply angled.

Can't see the need for the torch. Have never used one when making a pick. You may have different experiences, so will leave that up to you.

Really look forward to seeing the results of your hard work! Be sure to post pictures here. Make sure you keep the picks cool to preserve the temper as you cut/grind the metal.

Gordon

[Guest3123]

Two concerns that spring to mind are related to your pick designs.

First, your hooks, being large and angular on the end, may be difficult to maneuver inside a keyway. You may need to adjust the shape to me more rounded and narrow, though a flat tip (or even slightly rounded inward) to help keep the pick on the pin may help.

The second is on the ramp closest to the handle on your L rake (city rake, or whatever you call it) is too steep - it will very likely get trapped and held in place inside the lock by the pins. You may want to have it less sharply angled.

Can't see the need for the torch. Have never used one when making a pick. You may have different experiences, so will leave that up to you.

Really look forward to seeing the results of your hard work! Be sure to post pictures here. Make sure you keep the picks cool to preserve the temper as you cut/grind the metal.

Gordon

The tip of the picks tip is going to be 2mm long. Isn't that small enough? I acutally did think of making a little dip in the tip too, which would be really nice for keeping the pick right under the pin(s). The height of the picks tip, from the bottom to the tip is 3.5mm, maybe I should make it just 3mm high..?

As for the L Rake, or City rake, it's actually much smaller then you think, and yes, I'll make some modifications on it, and make it a little more rounded. I just thought that there would have been more kinetic energy when I go in and out of the cylinder, having more of a chance to bump up the pins with more kinetic energy, via the more pointy tips of the L Rake ("City Rake").


Sorry, didn't explain why I needed a torch, it's simply to make a twist on the tension wrenches. Need to heat the metal, then twist it to make a flat handle for the fingers or thumb, Instead of it being narrow, ouch.. I will also be making Petterson Pry Bar Tension wrenches out of 0.050" Chef Knives. Probably going to need to buy a Digital Caliper at Lowes or Amazon.


I will keep everyone posted, on this thread. I will be doing an in-depth video series on YouTube in 720p HD when I actually start making the lock picks. I'll be sure to keep it clean & full of visual information on how exactly to make nice premium lock picks.

I really want to make sure my video series is THE BEST Lock Pick Making Video Series on YouTube. Because, I've looked at the videos on this, and they are OK, but not that great. So I feel I can do SO MUCH BETTER.

Thanks for the concerns & post Gordon.

[Guest3123]

Maybe this might be a little better image of the specs of the lock picks, just showing the two hook lock picks, and the Bogota.


Much Higher Resolution, unlike the 800 x 600 Image I posted.


1024 x 768 RES.

[smokingman]

If you are using wiper spring inserts for your tension tools ,
you do not need a torch or heat.
Just a couple of pair of pliers or vise grips to bend and twist them does the trick.
Just leave at least 1/4 inch or more between clamp points and they will be fine.

[spandexwarrior]

I agree about the shape of the hook, unless you have a specific use in mind for that shape, so with something more standard.

Take a look at Deviants slides. 22 has some ratios of the shaft height to the tip height. I would go with a short hook or gonzo.

http://deviating.net/lockpicking/slides/distinguishing_picks.pptx

I'm not saying your tool wouldn't be useful, just not as a traditional hook.

-Brian

[spandexwarrior]

If you square up the shaft and the flag, that would make a good dimple pick though - might need to be slightly smaller also.

-Brian

[Guest3123]

If you are using wiper spring inserts for your tension tools ,
you do not need a torch or heat.
Just a couple of pair of pliers or vise grips to bend and twist them does the trick.
Just leave at least 1/4 inch or more between clamp points and they will be fine.

I still need to get a torch anyways, because I'm going to be using Famowood Glaze Coat Gloss Polyurethane, because I want to give my handles a nice glass like look after I stain the Oak or Maple wood handles. I need the torch to pop the bubbles in the glaze. I'm hoping when I go to Lowes Friday, that they'll have cheaper torches then +/- $50. I've been looking on Lowes website, and they all seem too expensive. I'm already up to like $300 for this project. Lol, I can't seem to stop putting stuff on my shopping list for friday. For Christs sake, the steel and titanium pins is the cheapest on my list, and I can do like 40+ lock picks with all that metal. I'm getting Blue Tempured 1095 Spring Steel from McMasters.

[Guest3123]

I agree about the shape of the hook, unless you have a specific use in mind for that shape, so with something more standard.

Take a look at Deviants slides. 22 has some ratios of the shaft height to the tip height. I would go with a short hook or gonzo.

http://deviating.net/lockpicking/slides/distinguishing_picks.pptx

I'm not saying your tool wouldn't be useful, just not as a traditional hook.

-Brian

I just wanna try it out, god knows that I'll have more then enough metal to do like 40+ lock picks with the 1095 Blue Tempured Spring steel I'm getting from McMasters. I don't want my picks being like every other one, but I also want them to be more effective when pin by pin picking locks. I will probably draw up another vector template in InkScape for a more curved lockpick. But my first, will most definitly be the one I designed & drew up.


Are you saying that it has to be curved because people use it like a crow bar using the bottom of the plug on the inside as like leverage..?

That's not how I SPP locks, and I don't think that's the way your supposed to do it. I think your supposed to just push up on the pins with the lockpick or hook in this case. It should be fine. Do you think people wont buy one of my picks because it doesn't have a traditional type look to it? That's crazy.. I just felt I could make a better hook then a traditional hook, is all.

[Guest3123]

I agree about the shape of the hook, unless you have a specific use in mind for that shape, so with something more standard.

Take a look at Deviants slides. 22 has some ratios of the shaft height to the tip height. I would go with a short hook or gonzo.

http://deviating.net/lockpicking/slides/distinguishing_picks.pptx

I'm not saying your tool wouldn't be useful, just not as a traditional hook.

-Brian

LOL !! I really like this Power Point booklet. It's nice. Thanks. Of Coarse I had to go get Power Point to look at your file, but ehh, I got Power Point now.

So I took a look at page 22, yes, I see what your talking about. The Shaft is curved, and a typical hook has a flat tip. Like the ones that I'm making...

But I still don't really understand why the botton or shaft has to be curved, since my picks are going to be 2mm to 1mm shank.. I don't rub against any pins on the bottom of the pick, and I don't use the pick like a crowbar to lift up on the pins when SPP'ing pin tumbler locks. I mainly just push up on them. I can see why the tip of the lockpick would need to be rounded, because less chance of snagging on the pins in the lock when coming out and going into the cylinder. I'll probably make it curved then, if that's what I need to do. Thanks for the cool little book Brian, I'll definitly keep looking at it.

As for my metal, I'm pretty sure the 1095 Blue Tempured Spring Steel is going to be very nice. and it's 0.025" of an inch, which according to TOOOL it's what they use in their lockpicks. I could always order some different thicknesses from McMaster, but the 0.025" should be nice.

[Guest3123]

Here's some pictures of the TOWER OF DEADBOLTS.. lol, it's only got 3 SCHLAGE Deadbolts.. the two top ones are brand new, just got them today. Paid like $39.95 for one, and the other one was like $35. The bottom one is my old one, but it's part of the 3 Deadbolts I've put together, haven't picked them yet. I'll wait till I make a nice & strong lock pick to pick those.. I've also went and bought 3 LEVEL 9, LEVEL 10, and a BIG BRINKS Padlock 5 PIN. Maybe latter down the road, I'll buy a shit load of ABUS Padlocks.. Still need to practice yet.. I got some big padlocks with strong spring tension to test, seeing that I've mainly only did 40mm padlocks and never anything really bigger, but smaller.

Here's the pics of the TOWER OF DEADBOLTS.. BUILT TODAY.

I've also went and placed my order for dilivery at 3AM this morning.. It was shipped first thing this morning from McMaster Carr. Should get here Friday, 05.02.2014 I'll also be doing an UnBoxing for YouTube and it will be shared here on LockPicking101

IMAGE #001 - TOWER OF DEADBOLTS (SCHLAGE)

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IMAGE #002 - TOWER OF DEADBOLTS (SCHLAGE)



Yeah.. I know, need different kinds, ones with Security pins.. But these were altogether like $100+ Spent like $80 on the two tops ones today, BRAND NEW. I just built this today, basically two 2 x 6 presure treated wood. Do you guys like it..?

[Divinorum]

Very cool, nice work man. For the amount of money you save it's way better to build a stand yourself.

[Guest3123]

Very cool, nice work man. For the amount of money you save it's way better to build a stand yourself.

Thanks man.. made my first lock pick today. Still have to edit the video of me making it, and MY PICK IS NICE, But TOO BIG.. Can't fit it around a SCHLAGE Keyway.

Take a look..



1095 FULLY HARD, BLUE TEMPERED STEEL. SHIM STOCK. I got two of these sheets of steel. (0.025" THICK x 6 INCHES WIDE x 25 INCES LONG)



AND MANY MORE THINGS, INCLUDING the 3 FEET OF 1/8" Grade 2 TITANIUM ROD, for my OAK Handles I'm going to be making, got 2 pieces of 13/16th INCH x 4 INCHES WIDE x 4 FOOT LONG OAK.

Most of this stuff is FINE, MEDIUM & COURSE GRINDING BITS for the Dremel, in different sizes and shapes.



I'll add the video that I did with me making my first Lockpick & including the UN-BOXING Video of McMaster Carr Items.


So let me know what you guys think.. I know the lockpic is too big, but just give me some feedback, ask me some questions about it, etc. etc. Feel free guys, by all means.

[Guest3123]

Here's some more Pictures.


THIS SHIT IS HARDCORE !!!! ROCKWELL HARDNESS C48-51 (0.025" THICK x 6" WIDE x 25" LONG) x2


Here's another picture.. See.. two of em THANKS LOCKPICKING101 for letting me know about McMaster Carr, and thanks McMaster-Carr YOUR AWESOME !!!! You can also see the Grade 2 TITANIUM ROD (1/8" x 3')

[Guest3123]

McMaster Carr delivered in 1 DAY !!!

From New Jersey to Pennsylvania, Ground Shipping VIA UPS.