I'm going to be working with 1095 Full Hard Tempured Spring Steel (Blue Tempered Steel).
I figure if anyone knows how to cut a file in half, I would be able to cut & work with the 1095 Blue Tempured Steel.
It's 0.025" Thick, or in metric it's (0.6350 MM Thick)
Going to be making very nice premium lock picks.
Will an abrasive cutting disk work? Like ones found on a Dremel or Angle Grinder?
I was planning on buying a Dremel EZ456B Cut-Off Wheel 12pk, which is an abrasive cutoff disk or wheel from Lowes.
But I also see, besides my 1095 Blue Tempured Steel Shim Stcok, that McMasters Carr has (ceramic aluminum oxide and zirconia aluminum) Cuttoff disks too. But I don't know if the 12 pk. of disks will cut this stuff, or if I need to step up my game a little.
This is the metal I'm going to be working with, here's the item numbers for my materials from McMasters Carr WebSite.
Wear-Resistant 1095 Spring Steel Spring-Tempered Strips and Sheets—Polished with blue tint -> Yield Strength: Not Rated -> Hardness: Hard (Rockwell C48)
Everything you mentioned will cut your spring steel. Unfortunately all your methods also cause the steel to heat up while cutting. This excess heat will steal the hardness from your spring steel, and it won't be hardened spring steel any more. If that happens you will have to re-temper each piece you overheat. Maybe that's why some folks make their own picks one at a time with just a file. I prefer to buy my picking tools from my distributor. I think I usually pay a few dollars apiece for hpc picks, been awhile since I had to replace any.
billdeserthills wrote:Everything you mentioned will cut your spring steel. Unfortunately all your methods also cause the steel to heat up while cutting. This excess heat will steal the hardness from your spring steel, and it won't be hardened spring steel any more. If that happens you will have to re-temper each piece you overheat. Maybe that's why some folks make their own picks one at a time with just a file. I prefer to buy my picking tools from my distributor. I think I usually pay a few dollars apiece for hpc picks, been awhile since I had to replace any.
Well good thing I'm buying a Torch. I understand what the exact temperatures are for tempering the steel. I also know what colors to look for when tempuring the steel.
I'll probably take a high res image of the color that the metal is, "BLUE" and if I ruin the temper, I'll simply re heat it until I see that color come back.
I've been studying on the web about Heat treating & tempering steel. It's not that hard, in fact, I understand it now very well.
But I'll try to use some type of cutting fluid on the metal, while I cut it with the Dremel. If anything, I'll probably have to buy a Diamond Disc. But I don't think I'll need to do that, I'll just take it nice & slow, and take my time.
I'll definitely keep what you said in mind, and try my hardest to keep it cooled while cutting it.
I'm pretty sure, accoriding to the chart, I wont ruin the temper as long as I keep the steel under the tempature which is was tempered. Which according to the chart, it's above 500 degrees F, which gives it that blue tempered look, or hue.
I'm pretty sure things will be fine. I'll just keep a bucket of water near by to keep the metal or temper at bay.
The Steel I'm getting is 1095 Blue Tempered Spring Steel. I think that as long as I can cut it without getting close to it's temper temperature, I should be fine. But I'm planning on keeping it well below it's temper temerature to make sure nothing bad happens to my lockpicks when they're being shaped & formed from the 0.025" x 4" x 4' 1095 Blue Tempered Spring Steel Shim Stock from McMaster Carr.
Me Neigther, picked up 2 new Schalge Deadbolts today, and built the picking station for the 3 deadbolts I have now, haven't tried picking them yet, just got done trying to pick the Master Lock No. 5 while it was still in the package, but I'm afraid my Southord picks that I grinded down with the dremel aren't working out very well.. I figure I'd just wait to make some premium lock picks, then I'll take a swing at the new Schlage Deadbolts I got, and the Brinks, $25 Masterlock Level 10 Dificulty, and the Masterlock No. 5 when I get some new premium picks in my hands.
critmass235 wrote:file or grind on a oil sucked rag. it will keep the temp down. its how i make a rough start with a dermal.
I actually ordered a SHIT load of fine, medium, and coarse grinding bits from McMaster, I got like 5 different kinds coming.
I also got some custom 3 inch (ceramic aluminum oxide and zirconia aluminum) Cutoff disks... That's not two diferent kinds, that's 1 disk that has that in the disk. Supposidily it will cut the 1095 and tungsten VERY EASILY. I've watched some videos on these disks that I'm getting on YouTUbe, and I've seen people cut threw 2 inches of Carbon steel like it was nothing.. Supposidly the disks also don't creat heat when cutting the metal, that the Zerconia Aluminum & Ceramic Alumina Oxide "disk" will absorb the heat when cutting metal. HA HA HA HA !!!
I CAN'T WAIT !!!! I ordered 2 of the 3 INCH ceramic aluminum oxide and zirconia aluminum disks. etc. etc.
My bill came to like $113+ just in bits, and abrasive cutting disks I must of spent just as much as the 1095 Fully Hard Blue Tempered Spring Steel and the 0.030", 0.035", & 0.040" Feeler gauge, which I'm going to make flat tension wrenches out of. I got 2 of each type of feeler gauge, just regular Steel, McMaster doesn't say what type of steel it is.. except the other kinds is 302, 303 steel.. they didn't have the sizes I needed in the 302, 303, that's why I didn't get it in that grade of steel. oh well.. beggers can't be choosy.. they were like $2 each for each feeler gauge.. figured I could make a handful of flat tension wrenches with 2, 2, & 2 of the feeler gauge.
Everyone on Youtube c& it's noted on Wikipedia they specialize in 1 day dilivery. Can't wait.. I ordered the stuff 3AM this morning.
remember thin metal heats up really quick compared to thicker. as for grinding,for the most of it you only need fine bits. you need alot of high coarse sand paper (i go to 2000). a good edge and polish makes a ton of difference. i spend more time polishing than any other step making picks.
critmass235 wrote:remember thin metal heats up really quick compared to thicker. as for grinding,for the most of it you only need fine bits. you need alot of high coarse sand paper (i go to 2000). a good edge and polish makes a ton of difference. i spend more time polishing than any other step making picks.
Thanks.
So I made my very first lock pick..
LOOKS AMAZING, FEELS AMAZING.. BUT.. It's TOO BIG.
I really like it, but it can't make the turn around the keyway..
I'll probably have to modify it, grind it down, sand it down.. the top of the picks tip is like freaking 2mm, from the bottom of the shank to the top of the picks tip,it's a hair under 4mm.. so I'm guessing that it's too tall or high..
IDK.. Gonna have to trim it a little. It might be very nice looking, and my first lock pick I've made.. but it needs to be trimmed down by like 1mm or more, idk.