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7 To 8 Pin Tubular Conversion

Tool recommendations, information on your favorite automatic and/or mechanical lockpicking devices for those with less skills, or looking to make their own.

7 To 8 Pin Tubular Conversion

Postby huxleypig » 16 May 2014 15:30

Shamelessly cut and pasted from another lockpicking site (all my own work though):

So this was my first milling project. I chose it because it involved drilling, using the rotary table, slotting...

Anyway, the idea was to add an 8th tine to my Southord pick. This gives it the ability to do 7 pin, 7 pin left (and right) offset and 8 pin. Also I added screws for each tine to control their tension individually and also to completely lock them down when necessary. Locking them down tight is something I have always wanted to do because tubular picks have the tendency for set tines to slip even when the collar is locked down 100%.

First operation. Drilling and tapping holes around the collar:

Image

At first I had things set up badly and I got bad results so a few of the holes I did at first are ugly and not 100% straight. I also got a carbide drill bit stuck tight in one of the holes (which was a major PITA to get out) and a crap Rolson tap broke in another.

Anyway, I got them drilled but there was a problem. When a screw was tightened it pulled the collar up towards it and so ended up pinching the tine on the opposite side against the collar and trapping that one tight too. Like so:

Image

So it meant I needed to mill little gaps from the inside of the collar so the pressure was relieved:

Image

Fixed! :akimbo: Now I can play with any of the screws independently of affecting any other tines.

This left the new slot and pin cup left to be milled:

Image

Image

I also had to make a new tine. I did it from brass first but it was just too weak so I did it from steel shim. It's good but still not quite as strong as the ones that come with the pick. It is as thick so maybe it would benefit from heat treatment?

But does it work?

Image

That is an 8 pin by the way.

:razz:

Interesting thing regarding the position of the pins from a 7 to an 8 pin;

On a 7 pin, the roll pin (or, the 12 o' clock position) sits directly opposite where you imagine the 8th tine would go.

But on an 8 pin (or 7 pin offset), the pins are all rotated around 22.5 degrees. So the roll pin no longer site opposite a tine, it sits in the gap between them. You can see this on the picture below, this is an 8 pin lock in the locked position. Notice that all the pins are shifted round a little from a 7 pin. I suppose this is what makes them 'offset'! :smile:

Image

In practicality, you can remove the roll pin and move it to the new position for a non 7 pin standard but it works without the roll pin at all. In fact, the roll pin is never necessary, the pick would work just fine without ever using it. This is how I had to set up for the drilling of this 2nd roll pin location:

Image

:shock:
There HAS to be an easier way but that rubber handle does not grip well!

Onto the next project...
huxleypig
 
Posts: 185
Joined: 15 Jun 2005 8:57
Location: wolverhampton

Re: 7 To 8 Pin Tubular Conversion

Postby assweasel » 16 May 2014 20:28

Excellent post should get stickied.

The difference between an 8 pin and a seven pin is that with an 8 pin pick you can do both offset left and offset right 7 pin locks

Were you to stick to 7 pin picks you would need to buy three picks.

And this post shows how to convert on the cheapo.

I vote STICKY!!

Really needs to be one.
Image
assweasel
 
Posts: 132
Joined: 7 Jun 2006 4:24
Location: Vancouver

Re: 7 To 8 Pin Tubular Conversion

Postby assweasel » 16 May 2014 20:31

assweasel wrote:Excellent post should get stickied.

The difference between an 8 pin and a seven pin is that with an 8 pin pick you can do both offset left and offset right 7 pin locks

Were you to stick to 7 pin picks you would need to buy three picks.

And this post shows how to convert on the cheapo.

I vote STICKY!!

Really needs to be one.


And as an added bonus you should all just drill your picks out to compensate for the ball bearing offset.
If you dont know what i am talking about you don't need to know.
If you do regulars without ball bearings do not give a hoot about that.
Image
assweasel
 
Posts: 132
Joined: 7 Jun 2006 4:24
Location: Vancouver


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