How to cut in strikes on fiberglass frames.

[cledry]

Not sure where I should post this. I have to install about 6 or 7 Medeco deadbolts on doors that are prepped for the lock but not the strike. The Medeco strike is a pretty substantial piece but I am more concerned with making a nice job of the top plate on a fiberglass door frame. I assume it wont chisel like a wood door.

Any ideas?

[GWiens2001]

Dremel with a cut-off wheel?

Gordon

[cledry]

Dremel with a cut-off wheel?

Gordon

I thought about that but not easy to get corners cut without going too far. I'm dreading this job!

[GWiens2001]

You can try finishing the corners using a diamond dremel bit. That should also work well for cleaning up the edges of the cuts.

Gordon

[cledry]

I think I might fabricate something and use my oscillating tool to do the outline.

[hjlocks]

If you can find a discount/refurbished building supply store like Re-Store, you might be able to find something made of fiberglass that's similar to the doors you'll be working on for cheap so you can test a few cutting solutions. I wouldn't use the cutoff wheel though. Get the spiral guide kit and the 561 spiral router bit. As the cutoff wheels are made of fiberglass I'm not sure how well it will go through, but the router bit will cut it clean. If it's thin you can also put masking tape over the area you're going to cut to minimize chipping.

More importantly though is safety. At minimum you want to be wearing a full face screen, a dust mask, and heavy rubber gloves. A full face respirator is your best option, but I'm not sure if spending $120-$150 on safety gear would kill your profits. You really don't want to inhale fiberglass dust though. You'll also probably want to wear either a disposable painter's cover or some older clothes you don't mind getting rid of (washing them won't get rid of the fiberglass). I'd also advise cutting it outside if possible.

[Sinifar]

Try a drive in bolt. If all you have is a hole, 1", then just get the drive in and be done with it.

Sinifar

[Squelchtone]

I dont know how thick the material is or if you need to "chisel out" a 1/4 inch for the strike plate to sit flush, but what about using a Forstner bit (hole saw) to control how deep you go. Those bits make nice smooth holes in wood, hopefully they would do the same in fiberglass. The hard part is the areas between the circles, probably have to Dremel those to the correct depth, or over lap the Forstner bit.

Some forum I saw mentioned drilling in Reverse to control depth and chipping.

hope this helps,
Squelchtone

[alockguru]

I would check into the router bits for the dremel tool.

[cledry]

Try a drive in bolt. If all you have is a hole, 1", then just get the drive in and be done with it.

Sinifar

This is for the jamb side not the door.

[cledry]

I dont know how thick the material is or if you need to "chisel out" a 1/4 inch for the strike plate to sit flush, but what about using a Forstner bit (hole saw) to control how deep you go. Those bits make nice smooth holes in wood, hopefully they would do the same in fiberglass. The hard part is the areas between the circles, probably have to Dremel those to the correct depth, or over lap the Forstner bit.

Some forum I saw mentioned drilling in Reverse to control depth and chipping.

hope this helps,
Squelchtone

Material is 1" thick. I built a router template today, but Medeco doesn't have round corner strikes so I will round them off on a belt sander first. I'll let you know how it goes.

[cledry]

If you can find a discount/refurbished building supply store like Re-Store, you might be able to find something made of fiberglass that's similar to the doors you'll be working on for cheap so you can test a few cutting solutions. I wouldn't use the cutoff wheel though. Get the spiral guide kit and the 561 spiral router bit. As the cutoff wheels are made of fiberglass I'm not sure how well it will go through, but the router bit will cut it clean. If it's thin you can also put masking tape over the area you're going to cut to minimize chipping.

More importantly though is safety. At minimum you want to be wearing a full face screen, a dust mask, and heavy rubber gloves. A full face respirator is your best option, but I'm not sure if spending $120-$150 on safety gear would kill your profits. You really don't want to inhale fiberglass dust though. You'll also probably want to wear either a disposable painter's cover or some older clothes you don't mind getting rid of (washing them won't get rid of the fiberglass). I'd also advise cutting it outside if possible.

I already have all of that gear, I know the dangers. Thanks for pointing them out so others will know too.

[hjlocks]

You could also try using the router bit on a dremel to cut the outside edge to match the strike, then do the inside portion with a proper router. Might be easier than grinding all the strikes to fit.

[globallockytoo]

I use a Makita 3/8" belt sander/power file for accurate cutouts. Drill hole as needed, file with power file to dimensions wanted.

Here is a link to a picture of the product. It is probably the best tool in my toolbox. Use it all the time and it saves boatloads of time/effort.

If you need to mount tabs to connect screws, consider GKL snap in bridges or similar.

[cledry]

I use a Makita 3/8" belt sander/power file for accurate cutouts. Drill hole as needed, file with power file to dimensions wanted.

Here is a link to a picture of the product. It is probably the best tool in my toolbox. Use it all the time and it saves boatloads of time/effort.

If you need to mount tabs to connect screws, consider GKL snap in bridges or similar.

I have one, but it won't do what I am trying to do. Making the hole isn't a problem, it is fitting the faceplate flush with the frame that is the issue.