Pull up a chair, grab a cold one, and talk about life as a locksmith. Trade stories of good and bad customers, general work day frustrations, any fun projects you worked on recently, or anything else you want to chat about with fellow locksmiths.
by Squelchtone » 10 Jun 2014 15:12
cledry wrote:globallockytoo wrote:I use a Makita 3/8" belt sander/power file for accurate cutouts. Drill hole as needed, file with power file to dimensions wanted. Here is a link to a picture of the product. It is probably the best tool in my toolbox. Use it all the time and it saves boatloads of time/effort. If you need to mount tabs to connect screws, consider GKL snap in bridges or similar.
I have one, but it won't do what I am trying to do. Making the hole isn't a problem, it is fitting the faceplate flush with the frame that is the issue.
perhaps a photo of said frame with the medeco strike plate held against it would give folks a better idea what you are trying to accomplish. how thick is this fiberglass, is there an air pocket on the other side of it and I have to ask is this on a winnebego or boat or what? I just dont know what has fiberglass door frames that require a "real" deadbolt.
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Squelchtone
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by cledry » 10 Jun 2014 17:35
Squelchtone wrote:cledry wrote:globallockytoo wrote:I use a Makita 3/8" belt sander/power file for accurate cutouts. Drill hole as needed, file with power file to dimensions wanted. Here is a link to a picture of the product. It is probably the best tool in my toolbox. Use it all the time and it saves boatloads of time/effort. If you need to mount tabs to connect screws, consider GKL snap in bridges or similar.
I have one, but it won't do what I am trying to do. Making the hole isn't a problem, it is fitting the faceplate flush with the frame that is the issue.
perhaps a photo of said frame with the medeco strike plate held against it would give folks a better idea what you are trying to accomplish. how thick is this fiberglass, is there an air pocket on the other side of it and I have to ask is this on a winnebego or boat or what? I just dont know what has fiberglass door frames that require a "real" deadbolt.
The fiberglass is @ 3/4" thick, behind that is @ 1/4" air space followed by a pine frame. It is a house. The doors are high end pre-hung fiberglass door and frame modules from a company called Tecton..
Jim
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cledry
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by globallockytoo » 14 Jun 2014 14:55
Cut the larger hole, file to shape required. USE GKL bridges to hold strike in position, flush with face. Or mount tabs top and bottom screw holes and drill extra holes for tabs above and below strike.
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globallockytoo
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by cledry » 14 Jun 2014 19:56
globallockytoo wrote:Cut the larger hole, file to shape required. USE GKL bridges to hold strike in position, flush with face. Or mount tabs top and bottom screw holes and drill extra holes for tabs above and below strike.
There is no need for bridges or tabs. There is wood behind the frame. Bridges wouldn't fit anyway.
Jim
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cledry
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by billdeserthills » 25 Jun 2014 15:58
So Cledry, don't keep us in suspense Man, how'd you make your cut-outs in the fiberglass?
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by cledry » 25 Jun 2014 16:37
billdeserthills wrote:So Cledry, don't keep us in suspense Man, how'd you make your cut-outs in the fiberglass?
I made a router template and routed them in. I took the Medeco plates and rounded the corners to match the cutout. Turns out the customer was wrong, they weren't fiberglass they were some other composite which was as easy to work with as wood.
Jim
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