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by Lauren » 28 Jun 2014 8:58
I purchased a rather unique antique padlock recently, which I believe was made by FRAIM-SLAYMAKER (FS is stamped on the hasp). Before purchasing the lock, I went to a popular antique padlock website (which I will not name out of respect) to learn a little more about the lock. Not only did I find the lock, but I found the EXACT one displayed in the Ebay listing. The first thought that came to me was that the owner of the site was using Ebay to sell the lock. Well, this was simply not the case. The owner of the site displayed a photo shop copy of the padlock off of the Ebay listing and white washed the background. AND... The individual slapped the name of their website across the picture, most likely preventing someone else from copying the picture (highly hypocritical and disturbing). I fully believe that the picture was stolen! Also, I now know that this website is nothing but a collection of pictures. The collector doesn't even own all of the locks. Naturally, I always knew this because many of the pictures would always say, "courtesy of ....". The ones that say nothing are highly suspicious. So, I have to ask my self, "How can I ever perceive this individual as a padlock collector and authority for something that he has never owned?" Well, I can now say that I am the proud owner of a padlock that is on display in a popular website. I can touch it, feel it and tell you about it.
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by MrWizard » 28 Jun 2014 11:42
Let's see that now famous lock.  Touch and tell time. 
"Those who believe in telekinesis, raise my hand."
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by MrWizard » 29 Jun 2014 7:01
That is a very unusual lock indeed. I have never seen one before. Appears neither did the owner of that website so he grabbed and slapped it up. Clearly photo shopped as the edges are jagged. I have asked that owner questions about many padlocks pictured on there. He did have other info on them other than was posted. Also does have some skills in opening and fitting keys. Help me a couple of times. Does make you feel a little different about the content now you know how some of it got there. Richard
"Those who believe in telekinesis, raise my hand."
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by billdeserthills » 29 Jun 2014 14:13
MrWizard wrote:Let's see that now famous lock.  Touch and tell time. 
I saw this, but it still doesn't tell me which magical Fraim-Slaymaker padlock you got, is it one of these? http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=fra ... &FORM-IGREI think I have the second from the right, top line hanging from the ceiling in my shop, I kinda doubt if mine is rare tho...
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by Lauren » 29 Jun 2014 14:38
For your viewing pleasure, gentlemen..... (AKA 7098) I just finished making a working key using a special decoding technique I invented. As usual, this lock was received in the closed position and without a key. I decoded this lock without picking the lock open. The hasp has "FS" (left), "100" (middle), "W" (right) stamped on it. Most likely this lock was made by FRAIM-SLAYMAKER. Although the EAGLE LOCK COMPANY had padlock models called "6 SECURE LEVERS". This lock is really only 5 lever tumblers. There is a unique sixth lever left and under the lever tumbler stack, but it acts as a ward if anything. When I cut the key, the first thing I did was make a small cut above the driver bit to allow for this warded lever. 
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by Lauren » 30 Jun 2014 21:08
I have a few questions for you fellow antique padlock collectors out there who have been following this thread. Why do you enjoy collecting antique padlocks? History? Antiquity? Mechanical? Puzzle solving? ....What? And, do you collect padlocks with keys or without or both? And, for the ones without keys are you content to have them in your collection, even though they don't have a key? Did you manage to make a working key for any of them. What was the most difficult antique padlock that you were able to make a key for (if any)? Come on. Show your pictures! 
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by Lauren » 15 Jul 2014 23:35
This bronze padlock is stamped "BARNES & DEITZ" , "265". I have never seen one of A.E. Deitz's locks stamped with Barnes. I would like to know more about their partnership together; how long it lasted. That sort of thing. I wonder if this makes this lock older or newer based on the stamping. This lock still has some of the original finish on it. When I began picking this 3 lever lock, I quickly noticed that the levers would suspend in elevation without springing back down. This was highly unusual. I suspected that the bolt spring was weak or even broken. I picked this lock open in under 5 minutes. After decoding the lock using "L" wires, I shut the hasp, but unfortunately the lock would not lock. The bolt spring was truly broken. I found a small piece of the spring inside the lock. This lock operates under some rather close tolerances, meaning the stop on the bolt must be perfectly aligned with the gates of the tumblers . The gates on each lever tumbler are not forgiving. In addition, each gate has some unusual serrated edges. They are square-like, designed to frustrate would-be lock pickers. The only reason I was able to pick this lock so easily was because the bolt spring was broken. Otherwise, it would have been more challenging. This lock has an interesting raised ward in the back of the lock. This is an uncommon feature in similar locks. I had to make a ward cut as seen on the key. In order to lock this lock, I must hold down the hasp and hit the left side of the lock in my palm to release the stop from the tumbler stack.  
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by Lauren » 19 Jul 2014 22:17
I really have an emotional attachment to this model YALE, 3-Lever padlock. First, I am the first to invent a tool that quickly picks these locks open. Currently, you can only read about the technique in a recent past issue of THE INDEPENDENT LOCKSMITH JOURNAL. Although, I have produced a video on the subject (currently not published). Second, I made a wonderful barrel key from German brass bar stock, completely machined on my drill press (outside of my bench buffer). You'll never catch me silver soldiering to make keys. That's not my style. This key is truly one of a kind. So now, I have a one of a kind key and one of a kind picking method and tool in my collection. This lock, stamped #81, is in great condition. The bolt just pings when the lock opens and closes. Not a bad deal for $8.00. I believe this lock is an older version of YALE AND TOWNE's 1625 1/2 padlock based on the Trefoil logo on the keyhole cover. Some die hard collector probably has all the bit codes on these locks.  Here's some technical specifications on this key. Someone just might one day find the information helpful. Barrel hole size: #14, Total bit width: .400 inch, Bit thickness: .100 inch, Outside barrel diameter:.265 inch, Total barrel and bit height: .490 inch.  
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by Lauren » 23 Jul 2014 13:05
LOCKSMITHS LOVE TO PICK BRAINS
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by jeffmoss26 » 23 Jul 2014 15:00
Very cool! Love your work.
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by Caesarkid1 » 30 Jul 2014 9:07
Those keys are magnificent! Looks like I need to save up for a drill press now as well :-p
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by Lauren » 4 Aug 2014 1:27
Imagine trying to rake pick a particular model of padlock open, and you have proven to yourself in the past that you have mastered the ability to accomplish this task on similar locks. But one day, the rake pick just does not work like it did on prior locks. You may have spent days and weeks in an effort to open the lock with this pick. Eventually, you cave in and begin to re-think your approach on picking the lock open. You realize that a rake pick just isn't a universal tool and much of this has to do with the pin arrangement in the lock. This is exactly how I felt when I tried using my latest pick assist tool to open my latest project padlock. I tried for two weeks to open another key-less, EAGLE 6 LEVER padlock. The tool worked great on prior locks, but not this latest one. In retrospect, I was trying to fit a square block in a round hole (and yes, I know what you're going to say, but try to get my meaning). I wanted so badly for my tool tool to work, but this one lock was not going to allow it to happen. So, I began tooling for a different approach in making a replacement key for my lock. I went back to the same roots that I used to conquer the 6 LEVER, NEW CHAMPION padlock. Frankly, the technique worked great. And, I like the process better than the initial technique and tooling that I invented for these EAGLE locks. This lock (shown below) was decoded without picking the lock open. Don't let the simple bit pattern fool you. This lock was a real challenge, until I invented my newest decoder. If you think you know something because you can decode CHAMPION pancake locks-Think again!  EAGLE stamped 10N0214.
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by GWiens2001 » 4 Aug 2014 7:53
Lauren,
Really like the design of the key. That slight taper before the key bow looks classy.
It can be frustrating when you know something should work but it just doesn't. At least, in the end, you were victorious.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Lauren » 10 Aug 2014 11:22
Naturally, my next project padlock was an EAGLE 6 Lever design, barrel key style.  Received in the locked position without a key.  Lock was decoded with my special tool and invention (not shown). Data was used to make a push key (NEVER SEEN DONE BEFORE!) to test the data and open the lock prior to making the final key.  Push key was insert into the keyhole while using my special tension wrench. Lock opened on the first try. Tolerances of the bit cuts are +/- .015 inch from center of the stop.  Finished barrel made from solid steel (not welded or cast).  Another view of the finish key. Eagle padlock stamped16J0276. Key made without picking or impression.
LOCKSMITHS LOVE TO PICK BRAINS
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by billdeserthills » 10 Aug 2014 14:32
I think that is fantastic Lauren- Look at me, I'm off my ban! Wheee
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