Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by GWiens2001 » 28 Jul 2014 15:02
Two padlocks a lock shop asked me to open. (Not my normal shop). American 5200 from April 1991 (old school) and Master ProSeries 6321   Now to make some keys.  Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by daniel22747 » 30 Jul 2014 5:06
I love those master lock pro series guys with 5 spool pins. They are not all that hard once you get the hang of em, but they sure are fun.
It's one of the few higher security locks I use bottom of the keyway tension on.
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by GWiens2001 » 30 Jul 2014 9:05
daniel22747 wrote:I love those master lock pro series guys with 5 spool pins. They are not all that hard once you get the hang of em, but they sure are fun.
It's one of the few higher security locks I use bottom of the keyway tension on.
Those two I used TOK tension with a Peterson Pry Bar, and a Bogota set. 'Just happened' to have them in my wallet and did not want to go down and get a pick set from my car or my tool box. They worked great! Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Vetal » 3 Aug 2014 10:55
Mul-t-lock MT5 picking tool. 
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by Robotnik » 3 Aug 2014 16:53
Have been stuck on an old-style American 5200 with difficult bitting for a while, so I put it aside and hit up a vintage building materials store here in Portland. Picked up a Lori mortise cylinder, a Russwin mortise cylinder and an Eagle rim cylinder; SPP'd all three in about 10 minutes. Definitely needed that after the fight the American's given me.
Also picked up an Assa Twin V-10, but that's for another day...
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by GWiens2001 » 3 Aug 2014 18:05
Robotnik wrote:Have been stuck on an old-style American 5200 with difficult bitting for a while, so I put it aside and hit up a vintage building materials store here in Portland. Picked up a Lori mortise cylinder, a Russwin mortise cylinder and an Eagle rim cylinder; SPP'd all three in about 10 minutes. Definitely needed that after the fight the American's given me.
Also picked up an Assa Twin V-10, but that's for another day...
Those 5200 locks were very difficult for me as well. What finally did it was a combination of TOK tension and learning how much lifting force to use on the pins. You will learn that with the right (light) tension on the plug and the correct lifting force on the pins, you will be able to lift the serrated driver pins up past the serrations, but not be able to force the key pin above the shear line. On a less-gunked-up lock, you can also tell the difference between a serration and the shear line by the sound. Good luck! Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by Robotnik » 3 Aug 2014 18:53
GWiens2001 wrote:Robotnik wrote:Have been stuck on an old-style American 5200 with difficult bitting for a while, so I put it aside and hit up a vintage building materials store here in Portland. Picked up a Lori mortise cylinder, a Russwin mortise cylinder and an Eagle rim cylinder; SPP'd all three in about 10 minutes. Definitely needed that after the fight the American's given me.
Also picked up an Assa Twin V-10, but that's for another day...
Those 5200 locks were very difficult for me as well. What finally did it was a combination of TOK tension and learning how much lifting force to use on the pins. You will learn that with the right (light) tension on the plug and the correct lifting force on the pins, you will be able to lift the serrated driver pins up past the serrations, but not be able to force the key pin above the shear line. On a less-gunked-up lock, you can also tell the difference between a serration and the shear line by the sound. Good luck! Gordon
Thanks; I'm definitely over-lifting, so that's some great info. Serrated pins are new to me (have only encountered spool and mushroom thus far), so there's been a learning curve.
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by Robotnik » 3 Aug 2014 19:07
Robotnik wrote:Have been stuck on an old-style American 5200 with difficult bitting for a while, so I put it aside and hit up a vintage building materials store here in Portland. Picked up a Lori mortise cylinder, a Russwin mortise cylinder and an Eagle rim cylinder; SPP'd all three in about 10 minutes. Definitely needed that after the fight the American's given me.
Also picked up an Assa Twin V-10, but that's for another day...
 Photos of the referenced locks; the Assa is, of course, the un-picked one on the far right with the plug still vertical 
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by daniel22747 » 6 Aug 2014 5:19
I picked by schlage deadbolt with two bobby pins!
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by jeffmoss26 » 6 Aug 2014 6:49
Robotnik wrote:  Older Sargent 6-pin mortise cylinder. All six pins standard. Gutted the lock and measured the key pins; will cut a key for it as soon as I can find a blank.
Looks like a Sargent LA keyway. I am the resident Sargent expert so I have just about every standard keyway, shoot me a PM.
"I tried smoking a blank once. I was never able to keep the tip lit long enough to inhale." - ltdbjd
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by mseifert » 7 Aug 2014 17:10
Schlage Everest .. 
When I finally leave this world.. Will someone please tell my wife what I have REALLY spent on locks ...
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by GWiens2001 » 7 Aug 2014 22:40
A Falcon (non-SFIC) padlock, a new-style Master No. 3 and a Master No. 120   Thanks for the trade, CheerIO. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by Robotnik » 8 Aug 2014 22:25
 Schlage Everest FSIC, C123 keyway. Picked open, not to control.
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by C-Horse » 9 Aug 2014 1:37
The first is a Master Lock # 3 and the other two are Brinks 40mm ( All SPP'd ) The Brinks 40mm I SPP on a daily basis at least 10 or 11 times each. 
" In the end it is only me my weapon and my trigger finger "
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