Is plastic paper similar to this method shown below?
http://www.ehow.com/how_8509614_print-laminated-paper.html I find it helps to make a little 90° angle (shaped like an L) at the bottom left of the template I'm using before printing it--make it long and tall. Line the angle up with the corner of the metal you are using to help conserve your metal (in other words, if you apply the template to the metal at a different angle each time, after awhile you won't have a rectangular shape to use for a pick template
Also, a tip I borrowed from Gordon for using sticky things like laminated paper:
Peel off just a bit of the backing off of the laminate paper and cut that backing off with scissors (cut of the backing over the little L-shaped angle.) Line it up and it will be easier to peel back off if you mess up. Once you have it lined up, hold that part down firmly and peel the rest off the backing off and you'll know it will be easily applied without creases in the template.
Also, a chintzier way to do it would be to use layout spray (
http://www.grainger.com/product/DYKEM-Blue-Layout-Fluid-2C928.) This is made to be temporarily sprayed on metal to help with templates. Most welding suppliers will carry it. A common method of use is as follows:
1. Spray your metal with layout fluid
2. Lay a sketch over the metal and anchor one corner using tape, pull the sketch taut with one hand and trace with the other.
3. Use an Exact-O knife to cut through the paper and trace your sketch into the layout fluid (You want to just trace in little segments, at first: segment the cuts like a dotted line and connect the dots with the paper removed, etc.) This is to avoid your paper starting to flop around if you trace it in the conventional fashion.
4. Make the line more defined as you feel to, and grind out the template.
5. Use sandpaper / steel wool / Brillo Pad to remove layout fluid and your pick is completed
6. Use sandpaper in ascending grits to polish your pick to perfection
