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Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
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Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby coldclimb » 6 Dec 2014 3:16

So I haven't been playing with picking very long, but I'm definitely having fun. I've been challenging myself off and on lately with a "Krypto" pad lock I found on the ground, and so far it's been winning. I'm not entirely sure if it's my skill failing or the state I found the lock in. I suspect it spent an Alaskan winter (or more) under the snow, and was solidly stuck at first. Liberal dosing of penetrating lubricants, some beating/vibration, and screwdriver torquing got the tumbler to wiggle with little resistance, and the pins now move freely when not under tension. Now I'm stuck.

I can only get the pins (there's four) to bind if I apply some pretty significant tension, and so far (several hours of direct manipulation total) I haven't been able to positively identify any of the shear lines or binding order, or note any further rotation of the tumbler during manipulation after the initial application of heavy tension.

I'm okay with being bad at this, but I want to make sure it's me, so what are the best ways to thoroughly eliminate corrosion as a factor? :lol: In a bit of searching I've seen mention of overnight baths in WD-40, coke, brake cleaner, and such. Are any methods superior?

Thanks in advance!
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby pillar » 6 Dec 2014 3:55

Just to mention: WD-40 is suggested and used in some youtube lockpicking videos...
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby Divinorum » 6 Dec 2014 8:11

I usually soak and rinse in WD40. Get a container just big enough and put the lock in it. Fill it up till the lock is submerged. I buy the large jug of WD40 for this because using the spray can is expensive and annoying. I would let it soak for about 24hrs. After that, get a spray can and stick the nozzle of the can into the keyway, drain holes, shackle spots etc to flush out any dirt/grime that has hopefully been loosened up from the soak. Once clean I would let the lock dry out and then apply a real lock lubricant such as Tri-Flow-, Houdini, Lock Saver to name a few. Some people use other soaks but I have not tried anything other than the above so I cant really recommend anything else.
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby Squelchtone » 6 Dec 2014 8:51


I don't practice on rusty, old, or found/abandonzed, been outdoors for a while locks for one reason only. It is not worth breaking your picks in them, and they will usually have some sort of issue preventing the pins from moving freely, so it's best to go get a new lock at the hardware store if you are wanting to get into picking. Otherwise you'll always have doubts as to your skill vs is it the lock.

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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby 74TR6 » 6 Dec 2014 10:19

I suggest Kroil rather than any of the products you have mentioned. Since you have sprayed and had some results, first spray generously with carb cleaner or brake cleaner to flood the area and wash out any particles. Then spray with Kroil; let it soak and spray again next day. Not to continue the debate that has made several forums, WD40 is not a penetrant nor the best lubricant.

Any chance of a key that fits the keyway? Before chancing bending picks, I would be sure the pins are moving fully and freely
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby Robotnik » 8 Dec 2014 17:05

Squelchtone wrote:
I don't practice on rusty, old, or found/abandonzed, been outdoors for a while locks for one reason only. It is not worth breaking your picks in them, and they will usually have some sort of issue preventing the pins from moving freely, so it's best to go get a new lock at the hardware store if you are wanting to get into picking. Otherwise you'll always have doubts as to your skill vs is it the lock.

Squelchtone


Agree wholeheartedly; I learned this the hard way. After losing a short hook and a half diamond to an old Corbin padlock & an old Russwin padlock, I threw in the towel, replaced the picks, opened the locks with some aggressive (and gratifying) rotary picking, and vowed never to do that again.

Sometimes as lock is too corroded for SouthOrd or Peterson. At that point, go DeWalt. Not worth the wear on your picks.
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby coldclimb » 8 Dec 2014 23:07

Understood on that, but I have enjoyed building picks from scratch, and will likely enjoy doing it again if/when these break. I don't seem to be stressing them too badly in my attempts so far though. :) Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll be giving some a shot when I get around to it, and will report back when I'm successful. :lol:
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby mapper123 » 8 Dec 2014 23:58

I am totally new at this hobby, so don't laugh too hard! I found 5 older locks in a old barn & I do metal detecting as a hobby also. I was going to scrap the old locks with brass bodies & steel shackles. I beat the locks on the top of the shackles hoping to separate the steel from the brass with no success. I then did a google search on how these locks work...they all appear to pin tumbler types. There were two Yale, two Eagle & one ILCO . The shackles were rusty & there is no movement in 4 of the locks, but the ILCO seems to be free moving...the shackle moves up & down the core seems to move freely & I can feel the pins & they seem free, but I have had no success in picking this lock. I put some gun oil in the locks & may have gummed up things.
Do any of you folks have any suggestions as to how these locks may be salvaged. I never paid much attention to locks in the past, but I think the Yale locks are hansom & they all will probably clean up fairly well
There is no right way to do a wrong thing!
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby Robotnik » 9 Dec 2014 1:16

coldclimb wrote:Understood on that, but I have enjoyed building picks from scratch, and will likely enjoy doing it again if/when these break. I don't seem to be stressing them too badly in my attempts so far though. :) Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll be giving some a shot when I get around to it, and will report back when I'm successful. :lol:


I definitely pick used, worn locks, but what I try to stay away from are the corroded locks that need bouts of penetrating oil, WD-40, etc. A lot of learning to pick is developing that light, skilled touch, and for me, the feedback given by corroded locks run counter to developing that (it took me a fair bit of practice to un-learn the heavy hand that picking some badly degraded locks left me with).

If that's your forte, though, do your thing and have fun. For freeing stuck pins, I did find PB penetrating oil helpful. Did an half hour bath in that followed by an hour in brake cleaner. Lubed after that with WD-40 Silicone.
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby mapper123 » 9 Dec 2014 9:40

My post was mainly telling how I got the idea to try lock picking as a hobby. After reading the rest of this thread I have decided to buy a new lock to play with & perhaps develop the touch to pick a lock. I know there are other forms of lock systems, I am going to concentrate on the pin tumbler system . I bought a cutaway lock from China to practice with, but have not developed the touch enough to even pick it as yet. My touch is more in line with a 4 pound hammer, so it will take a lot of practice.
There is no right way to do a wrong thing!
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Re: Best way to free stuck/corroded parts

Postby dll932 » 9 Dec 2014 16:18

If you have access to one, an ultrasonic cleaner is good to unstick all kinds of mechanisms. If a lock is really gummed up the first thing I use is brake & electric motor cleaner. If THAT won't work I try acetone.
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