Masterlock 500D

[MrTomorrow]

This is a tough one. I've been using Sparrows warded picks and I can feel something lift a bit at the bottom and the shackle moves a bit but I can't complete the turn. It's a tricky one. A shank or pair of silver bullets doesn't seem to help. What do you use/advise? http://www.sparrowslockpicks.com/product_p/ward.htm
http://www.masterlock.com/business-use/product/500D

[GWiens2001]

The warded Master padlocks typically have a stiff wire spring that retains the shackle. You are probably moving that wire spring, causing the shackle to move slightly, but not quite enough to get it out of the groove in the shackle.

Some of the older Master warded padlocks had two springs in them, on opposite sides and at different heights in the keyway. Have not seen that in the newer locks, but don't really see many of the warded padlocks. Maybe they have been bringing back the second spring.

As for not being able to turn the warded pick further, you may need to modify the pick. Find out where the pick is binding, and file it as needed.

Good luck, and keep us informed.

Gordon

[MrTomorrow]

Ahhh. Just nailed it, Gordon. If the Russian Embassy uses a lock like this to guard their secrets I may parachute in. I used one wafer pick to turn a wafer that allowed the shackle to move some, felt it hold and then a different style pick to turn another wafer and allow the shackle to move a bit more, then it opened. I could feel spring action as I turned some of the wafers around, then another spring action at a different distance along the key way. Very cool, hats off Sparrow.

[nite0wl]

The 500D is a warded lock, no wafers to turn, no levers or pins to lift, just a spring catch to press.
Silver Bullets and similar bypass tools will not work on these locks, this locking mechanism is very different from the mechanism the SB tools are designed to bypass. Shank and knife bypasses (or really any bypass designed for Master #3 or any other pin tumbler lock) will not work.
Use the Sparrows Warded picks as they specify on the Sparrows website (the leftmost tool in the image on their product page is the closest to the tools that I have used successfully on my 500Ds) try each one at different depths in the keyway then move on to the next one on the ring. If the Sparrows warded tools don't work, try the SouthOrd and Peterson warded tools, one of those three sets will work. Try comparing the tools you are using to a 500D key, make sure it is not wider than or significantly narrower than the working key. On the 500 D the portion of the key closest to the tip is the part that engages the spring catch, if your tool cannot reach that deeply into the keyway and rotate past the wards, it will not work.

You can also make a skeleton key by cutting down a spare 500 series key to just the portions that engage the actual spring catch.

[MrTomorrow]

You are totally right, NightOwl. Warded. And yes, the Sparrows set worked perfectly. Going to different depths was the key. I felt the need to keep slight pressure on the shackle to lift it out. I was quite pleased and look forward to my next warded lock.

[nite0wl]

You are totally right, NightOwl. Warded. And yes, the Sparrows set worked perfectly. Going to different depths was the key. I felt the need to keep slight pressure on the shackle to lift it out. I was quite pleased and look forward to my next warded lock.

Try a 22D, they also provide a challenge (I just discovered one I had never taken out of its box).
The store-brand chinese copies are much easier and are better suited to being used as 'trick' locks if you want to show off at a party or something.

I have noticed that while the available specs and diagrams for both the 500 series and the 22 still show them as single catch locks, the newest seem to have a second catch very low on the heel of the shackel which requires you to work for warded pick along most of the keyway. Typically the original catch is at the very rear of the keyway and needs to be disengaged first (this may allow the shackle to rise away from the body slightly) then the second catch must be found and disengaged (this is usually somewhere near the middle of the keyway).

If you want a really challenging warded lock find a Master Lock 8596. I usually just end up using a skeleton key I made by filing down a spare key as the usual warded picks cannot engage all of the catches on their own.