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I do the occasional install for a family friend or acquaintance, and most folks are trying to get better security than they have but dont always want to go all way out and drop $200 on a deadbolt. I did 3 deadbolts today for a friend's house updating their Kwikset to Arrow E61 deadbolts I purchased at my local locksmith shop. I would like to think these are at least a step up from the Home Depot Schlage deadbolts, and the good part is they use the kind of bolt and tailpiece that can accept other retrofit cylinders down the road in case the owner wanted something more exotic than the Arrow keyway. The lock said it was 156.3 BHMA and Grade 2, and the bolt had a stamping on the face of it about being 20 minute rated. (maybe for time it takes to cut with a hacksaw?, who knows)
The price on these was not much more than the Home Depot deadbolts that most consumers who don't visit a locksmith shop have access to, and I wanted to get a sense from locksmiths here on the quality of this model or if it is just as junky as the Kwikset, Defiant, Schlage stuff the big box stores sell.
I will say I was not really impressed that they included 3/4 inch brass screws, I used longer ones instead. I also changed out some of the 3/4 inch hinge screws on the home owner's doors to 3 inch deck screws with heads that fit flush into the hinge holes.
I did like that the bolt's backset was non-adjustable and I had to specify it when ordering. To me, the less moving parts the less possibility of failure.
I agree that these arrow deadbolts are a step up from schlage, I think mainly because the arrow seems to be more stamped steel, than schlages pot metal. I think the arrow keyway is just as hard to pick and the bolt is a bit more substantial on the arrow as well
I would like to see some 3" screws along with that security strike, schlage does give a decent strike assy with their lock.
So this is not a comment on the lock, but rather the strike. I have 6 apartments and I find that renters are really not nice to there doors. And even the hinges and strikes that I've put 3" screws into tend to loosen up. Then when they loosen up the tenants (instead of mentioning that the door isn't closing right) start slamming doors and try to fix them on their own which usually makes it worse. Or they lock themselves out and break into their own apartment. So I've found 1 problem to be that in a lot of cases the doors really aren't Installed properly and the 3" screws don't even have much to grab. Which is sad. But I've really been liking the elongated striker plates that have several more screw holes more towards the centerline of the door jam. They have been proving to be much more solid, and not using holes right next to the striker hole that are usually stripped anyways. It sux having to work on old crappy doors that have been beat to death.
One other thing to consider is the construction of the door itself. New solid core wood doors will just peel open, if forced. A couple yeas ago in my old house, after I locked my keys inside, I was mad and gave the door a good shove & the latch of the leverset just bowed the door out, in that area. I wound up replacing the door, but with the same junky thing. All the sawdust in the middle of the wood door isn't very strong. I'm getting ready to start construction and I keep thinking of those "roll up shutters" for extra security, on my next home
Confederate, so when installing a door, lets say a main entry door, the norm is to put the hinge side of the door right up against a double stud and replace some of the 3/4 inch screws with 2 inch screws to anchor that door frame and door to that stud. I have often found the doors spaced off the double (or sometimes single) stud with a small chunk of 2x4 at the top and bottom corner. Leaving an inch and a half gap between the door frame and the stud. So in this case even a 3 inch screw is only getting a 3/4 inch bite on the stud, which isn't much. More often, when replacing doors, I find the biggest gap to be on the lock side. Some times the main thing holding the door in is the trim attached to the door frame and the wall. I have often tried 3.5 inch screws in strike plates only to have them spin. So a 3" screw usually has from 3/4 to an inch of it's length without threads. So if it doesn't grab something past the door frame then it isn't grabbing anything.
When I replace a door, even an interior door, I make sure there's something solid and well anchored on the lock side, and that the hinge side is sitting on a stud. even if I have to add a few studs myself. Studs and screws and some extra time is well worth the extra sturdiness.
You mentioned reliability, I am curious about your opinion and that of the locksmiths here about spare keys. On something basic like this do you recommend getting their spare keys made by a locksmith shop vs a retail key cutter? Since the original keys are new there is little concern about the issue of a retailer copying a worn key. But that still leaves the issue of poor quality key stock and inaccurate cutting among other things.
You mentioned reliability, I am curious about your opinion and that of the locksmiths here about spare keys. On something basic like this do you recommend getting their spare keys made by a locksmith shop vs a retail key cutter? Since the original keys are new there is little concern about the issue of a retailer copying a worn key. But that still leaves the issue of poor quality key stock and inaccurate cutting among other things.
-Nick
In a pinch, I'll use the local hardware store, but I pick the small stores, not the big box ones where some kid just learned how to sue the Axxess machine last week. The local Ace Hardware has a nice machine, I think it might be an Ilco, and I put more faith in that. The closest locksmith shop to me is 20 minutes, my favorite shop is 30 minutes away, if I have time, I'd rather have them make copies (I sold my key machine, so can't do that at home any longer)
I have installed a lot of those Arrow bolts and I think they're quite well worth it. On the subject of long strike screws, if you go longer than 3" it's possible to run into door bell wires, so test the bell when you finish installing.
dll932 wrote:I have installed a lot of those Arrow bolts and I think they're quite well worth it. On the subject of long strike screws, if you go longer than 3" it's possible to run into door bell wires, so test the bell when you finish installing.
Heh, I run network and phone lines when I wear my IT guy hat and I always worry someone down the road will drill through my wires =)
On a related note, I started to chisel out a strike for one of the deadbolts and the bottom of the strike plate cavity happen to have a nail that I didnt see (painted over) right in the place I needed to chisel. I ended up setting the nail deeper since the strike plate only needed 1/8 inch or so to sit flush with the wood.
I swear locksmithing is at least 50% carpentry.
Thanks for everyone's feedback on this model, I'll be buying more in the future. Squelchtone
Confederate wrote:It can be. Especially if your niche is salvaging or repairing old doors. Sometimes you get to have fun:
That was a great video, thanks. Growing up in New England, it was always fun to watch This Old House on my local Public Television station and see Bob Vila and Tom Silva working on houses in the area.
good door repair lock porn right there, thanks! Squelchtone
