american padlock series 5200

[south town ninja]

I have an american 700 series lock that i can pick just fine, as long as its dis-assembled and the cylinder is in a vice. The 5200 is supposed to be easier (?), but i just cannot get it to pick open. I degreased it with petrol and brake cleaner several times, and hit it with a spritz of lock-ease (graphite), and i can't pick it. I can't even feel a binding pin, and ALL I ever hear about american padlocks is to use light tension, so harder tension is probably out? how then do i get a pin to bind?
Do I need to depress the shackle while i pick it?

[Comrade627]

Please provide the date stamp on the lock, located on what you'd call the back. Should look like "UEG" or "LEF56" for example.

Pictures as well if you can, might be something blatantly funky going on.

[l0ckcr4ck3r]

I'm sure you know that American cylinders have serrated pins in them, its just a case of getting a feel for how they pick.

Look for the binder, then make it click once... repeats the process. Eventually you'll pick it and the more of them you conquer, the easier it becomes.

The best tools to learn with are the 0.05" pry bar and a peterson DCAP lifter.. makes moving between pins and controlling tension a breeze!

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

[south town ninja]

Please provide the date stamp on the lock, located on what you'd call the back. Should look like "UEG" or "LEF56" for example.

Pictures as well if you can, might be something blatantly funky going on.

XEG j 4. Also, it's marked "US" , presumably because it was issued to a friend of mine (by the Army) while he was stationed in Iraq.

[BSG_314159]

Don't let these security pins frustrate rate you. Use very light tension and a thin hook and just gently push them till they lock in. Sounds like click.. click.. click... CLICK!!

I open these up all the time. I use the Peterson pry bar.

I actually opened one of these today and disasembled it. See photo below.

Same year as yours by the date stamp you posted. A rule of thumb the older the 5200 the harder it can be.

[Comrade627]

Your lock was made in March 2008 so I believe it's loaded with serrated pins and a decent actuator spring. American 5200's of that model are a huge step for pickers. Practice Like how l0ckcr4ck3r said, and eventually you'll get it. Try picking it counterclock wise every so often. Often times this will make it easier due to the flip flop of the binding order.

Also, the US means it's a US Gov. Series, manufactured for government use.

[south town ninja]

so even tho the steel plate prevents a key from turning counter clockwise i can PICK it counterclockwise? I DO have the cylinder in the lock body itself, as i have no key.

[nick08037]

On American padlocks with the shackle locked the spring tension on the cylinder can add to the challenge. If it is an option I will sometimes try picking security pinned padlocks with the shackle open as an advantage. I think the US 5200 is key retaining so that option is not applicable here.

[south town ninja]

So i was picking an american 700 series, and thought i might be able to easily transition to the American 5200. The 700 had Spoorated drivers and the 5200 has genuine serrated drivers, correct? so I am having a serrated pin problem, does that sound right?

[BSG_314159]

so even tho the steel plate prevents a key from turning counter clockwise i can PICK it counterclockwise? I DO have the cylinder in the lock body itself, as i have no key.

https://youtu.be/4j_W0_be-KM

[south town ninja]

so, i broke the lock open (i am not at liberty to discuss my methods, per "the rules".) I found three serrated pins and two spool pins for drivers. i am currently working on just the three stacks that i can fit with serrated pins, so i can get a feel for them. I am starting to be able to decipher between a false set and a real set by listening for a small vs big click. I'll letter all know when i got this baby mastered, maybe post a video or something. Thanks for the help everyone!

[Comrade627]

While you've got it apart...

With those pins, it's a clear indication that that 5200 is several years old. I'd go ahead and completely tear it down and alcohol the crap out of it, and reapply your desired lube if any. Powdered graphite works very well. With a sparkling clean lock you'll be surprised at how well it talks to you.

Source: I've fixed, cleaned and picked more 5200s than times I've view this webpage.

[south town ninja]

so what's up with the bottom serrated pins? do they just trap an overfilled pin stack above the shear line and make it more difficult to reverse pick?

[BSG_314159]

so what's up with the bottom serrated pins? do they just trap an overfilled pin stack above the shear line and make it more difficult to reverse pick?

Yes. If I accidently over lift a pin I will most likely will release the tension and restart the attempt. You can very slowly release tension and poke at that pin to get it untrapped. With these 5200s if I don't pick them open in the first 5 min I reset all the pins. Pacific lock has the same serrated drivers but they seem easier to open for some reason.

My tip... very very very light tension... like if your typing on a laptop except softer. Listen for the different click sound. It will feel different as well.

I also use a Peterson pry bar for the upper keyway tension.

I just made a monster 5200 6 pin with 3 spool pins and 3 serrated pins with all serrated drivers.

[HT4]

The 5200 should not be any more or less hard than a 700 series. Most of them have identical 5 pin (6 capable) cores... depending on particular years. Though it seems like I am seeing more of the 5 pin only cores in these locks recently.

I've found that age/weathering makes a huge difference in the 5200's for some reason. I have about 10 of these locks, split between relatively new ones with the zinc coating intact, to 20+ year old ones that have lived out in the weather. The older ones can be a real challenge... the new ones give great feedback and are comparatively easy to open.