Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.
by Korver15 » 11 May 2015 22:50
I asked a buddy of mine if he comes into any new style of locks he should give them to me. Surprisingly he delivered to me a Schlage Primus IC mortise cylinder. I have briefly read up on them and know the basics about the security and finger pins and the high security spiel. However, I did not find much on a breakdown on how to actually pick them. This lock is obviously out of my league as I am still trying to figure out serrated pins (tips appreciated) but since I have it, I now feel it is my moral duty as a picker to crack this lock. I'm wondering if anyone has any solid lock specific tips on how to build up to this sucker. I am contemplating drilling out the IC core as i dont beleive that will disturb the locking portion. I cant see a straightforward way to get this baby out. I really want to take it apart so I can just start working on single pins. Is this a good idea or will it spill everywhere and I will have a bad time.
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Korver15
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by MBI » 12 May 2015 1:26
You won't find too much on picking them on lp101 outside of the advanced forum. After you've been here for 50 days and 50 posts so we can get to know you, you can apply to get in. All info about picking high security locks, destructive entry, bypass methods, automotive entry, manipulating safes, etc is found in there.
As for taking them apart, that's an awesome way to learn how they work and allow you to visualize what's going on inside. However, the Primus is one that is notorious for losing or launching small bits. If you don't have an easy source for spare parts I suggest you get a 1 gallon plastic bag and put the lock and your hands inside the bag to disassemble it. That way if something drops or shoots out you have a better chance of it being contained so you don't lose it.
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by Raymond » 12 May 2015 19:30
I am only posting this so that if you get SO DESPARATE to get the cylinder out, you will at least know one way to do it. The objective is to destroy the least expensive part and to keep the cylinder so you can pick. take apart, or otherwise learn from it.
Remove the tailpiece and anything else usable. Put in a vise and using a hacksaw cut the top of the cylinder housing down until just before you scratch the cylinder. Flip it over and do the same on the bottom. Then using a large screwdriver and hammer, crack open the weakened cylinder housing. Remove the intact cylinder. Recycle the brass mortise housing.
OR, maybe you can send it to one of the really great Primus pickers for removal.
I still can't seem to pick these silly monsters.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by Korver15 » 12 May 2015 22:14
I guess I missed the part about not posting about high security locks  . Woops. Thanks for the advice on getting it out. I have more questions about primus but I guess I should leave it be. Everest isn't classified as a high security lock is it? because I have some Q's about that also. Do members actually send locks around to other members? I saw that kind of stuff happening on bosnianbill and I feel that would be really fun. 
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Korver15
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by Raymond » 12 May 2015 22:32
Yes. Once you have established yourself with intelligent, not lazy, questions and made a few acquaintances, you can simply pm interesting people and work out issues directly. You seem well on your way so good luck.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by Korver15 » 13 May 2015 21:03
Well, might as well build up to the primus. I was looking on eBay for some Everest cylinders and I found some people selling some that didn't have the notch on the key in the side bitting. This confuses me because I read that Schlage only makes everest keys with that notch so that they can not be filed to replicate a primus lock. Should I be concerned that the cylinder does not have the check pin and that's why it's cheaper? Also, I should be able to pick the check pin with a diamond or some equivalent, or should I start making dimple picks?
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Korver15
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by Korver15 » 13 May 2015 21:07
Also, I feel like this is a stupid question but when one buys a brand new lock with a blank key, it still comes with pins in it right? They are all just set to the smallest pins instead of coming randomly pinned?
Edit. It is in fact, a stupid question
Last edited by Korver15 on 13 May 2015 21:37, edited 1 time in total.
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Korver15
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by kwoswalt99- » 13 May 2015 21:24
Korver15 wrote:Also, I feel like this is a stupid question but when one buys a brand new lock with a blank key, it still comes with pins in it right? They are all just set to the smallest pins instead of coming randomly pinned?
Yes, that's called being zero bitted.
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by Korver15 » 13 May 2015 21:37
I did say it was probably a stupid question 
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Korver15
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by nite0wl » 19 May 2015 9:55
Korver15 wrote:Well, might as well build up to the primus. I was looking on eBay for some Everest cylinders and I found some people selling some that didn't have the notch on the key in the side bitting. This confuses me because I read that Schlage only makes everest keys with that notch so that they can not be filed to replicate a primus lock. Should I be concerned that the cylinder does not have the check pin and that's why it's cheaper? Also, I should be able to pick the check pin with a diamond or some equivalent, or should I start making dimple picks?
There are Everest variant systems (like the Everest Primus) where the sidebar code is arranged to activate the check pin in Everest cylinders as well as set the finger pins in Primus cylinders, you may occasionally see Everest cylinders on EBay with Primus keys (strange and possibly breaching the integrity of the system's key control but not a problem for you as the buyer). True Everest keys should always have the large notch cut in the side bitting where, it is possible that someone has begun making generic Everest/Primus blanks since the patents expired in 2014 and 2007 respectively according to Lockwiki ( http://www.lockwiki.com/index.php/Key_patent_expiration_dates). If keys in the photos don't have Schlage's usual markings and designs they are either a 3rd party blank or something is not genuine in the listing (whether it is the product or the photo, I can't say). If an Everest is missing it's check pin though it isn't really any different from a high end 6-pin Schlage cylinder except for the cool looking keyway.
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by Aka Pessoa » 11 Jun 2015 14:12
MBI wrote:You won't find too much on picking them on lp101 outside of the advanced forum. After you've been here for 50 days and 50 posts so we can get to know you, you can apply to get in. All info about picking high security locks, destructive entry, bypass methods, automotive entry, manipulating safes, etc is found in there.
As for taking them apart, that's an awesome way to learn how they work and allow you to visualize what's going on inside. However, the Primus is one that is notorious for losing or launching small bits. If you don't have an easy source for spare parts I suggest you get a 1 gallon plastic bag and put the lock and your hands inside the bag to disassemble it. That way if something drops or shoots out you have a better chance of it being contained so you don't lose it.
One of the first jobs they sent me out on alone was a rekey of a Schlage Primus. They warned me about it, but since I had never saw it first-hand, I still had the sidebar spring come out on me. Cue me crawling around in a shopping center parking lot at 11:00 on my hands and knees looking for that microscopic little thing while the client shined a flashlight. I nearly quit that night. Not fun in the least.
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