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I just started a week ago and love this already. The first day took me about 40 minutes to rake the Master 131D open, and I switched to learning SPP. I am now down to 15 seconds with a half diamond. One thing that was interesting to me about this, and I dont know why, is that even after I get all pins up, it still would not unlock. But by accident, I let the tension slip a bit, and the first pin dropped back into place. Putting it back up resulted in unlocking it.
Currently I am working on a Master 7-KAD, and its being a bit problematic, I think, due to the small key hole.
Congrats on getting it open, but If I'm understanding what you wrote correctly, you may have fallen into the very common misconception that if you just lift all the pins up the lock opens. The trick is that you have to lift EACH pin a certain distance, not all of them just pushed up all the way, otherwise, anyone with a blank key or a screw driver blade could just open every lock on earth. The picks have to lift each pin only as much or as little as the real key cuts would lift each pin, in order for the key pins to push the top pins out of the way so the plug is not blocked by them and is free to turn. This is why you may notice your house key has mountains and valleys that vary in height.
Look up the powerpoint slide decks that TOOOL.US has on their website, they have some very easy to understand animations showing what's going on inside the lock.
Search for the term "shear line" as well, it's an important concept in lock picking.
Squelchtone wrote:Congrats on getting it open, but If I'm understanding what you wrote correctly, you may have fallen into the very common misconception that if you just lift all the pins up the lock opens. The trick is that you have to lift EACH pin a certain distance, not all of them just pushed up all the way, otherwise, anyone with a blank key or a screw driver blade could just open every lock on earth. The picks have to lift each pin only as much or as little as the real key cuts would lift each pin, in order for the key pins to push the top pins out of the way so the plug is not blocked by them and is free to turn. This is why you may notice your house key has mountains and valleys that vary in height.
Look up the powerpoint slide decks that TOOOL.US has on their website, they have some very easy to understand animations showing what's going on inside the lock.
Search for the term "shear line" as well, it's an important concept in lock picking.
Happy Picking! Squelchtone
Oh I've read all that, I understand it how each pin has certain lengths (hence the key), just a bit confused on this particular locks mechanics. Before I picked this I read this guide that came with my Southord, I watched a bunch of videos on the mechanics of a lock and I think I have a pretty decent understanding of basic locks.
I know I have lots to learn, and I'll probably go back over the basic stuff again.
What I am confused about is how, it seems like this lock should be open, how I have to drop a pin back in place, and push it back up again for it to unlock.
giveen wrote: What I am confused about is how, it seems like this lock should be open, how I have to drop a pin back in place, and push it back up again for it to unlock.
Can you show us a photo of the key, that will help explain why that's happening, also, am I correct in saying the pin closest to the outside of the lock is that that you have to do this to?
I'm gonna guess it's a deep cut in the first position, but let's take a look at the key. upload to imgur.com and paste the link here.
giveen wrote: What I am confused about is how, it seems like this lock should be open, how I have to drop a pin back in place, and push it back up again for it to unlock.
Can you show us a photo of the key, that will help explain why that's happening, also, am I correct in saying the pin closest to the outside of the lock is that that you have to do this to?
I'm gonna guess it's a deep cut in the first position, but let's take a look at the key. upload to imgur.com and paste the link here.
Thanks! Squelchtone
You are correct, the pin closest to the outside. Typically I am looking at the key when I try to feel/guess how far to push up the pins.
Most likely, while you are setting the other pins (from the front, pin 2 through pin 4) you are unintentionally over setting (pushing to far up)pin 1 (the one closest to the outside). Letting some tension off lets pin 1 drop back down to the resting position and allows you to then push it back up to the sheer line. As Squelch said this is because pin 1 is a deep cut and is easily inadvertently over set while trying to access the other pins. Congrats on your first pick and welcome.
Divinorum wrote:Most likely, while you are setting the other pins (from the front, pin 2 through pin 4) you are unintentionally over setting (pushing to far up)pin 1 (the one closest to the outside). Letting some tension off lets pin 1 drop back down to the resting position and allows you to then push it back up to the sheer line. As Squelch said this is because pin 1 is a deep cut and is easily inadvertently over set while trying to access the other pins. Congrats on your first pick and welcome.
Thanks Divinorum, that makes a lot of sense. I'm still struggling to find the right amount of lift for each pin, so I typically look at the key to get the experience on how far to push up each pin, at least till I get better at this and can sense the sheer line better.
