To begin with you should have a properly originated key, yes IC keys can be depth and space key produced with a key duplicator, but it is a pre-bolt cutter frustrating process.
First of all you will need a properly calibrated duplicator, IC pinning is finicky and likes precision.
You will also need a way to tip gauge the keys, with the Mini-Speedex that is done with a set of inexpensive tip gauges (BT-4).
The first step in the process is to select a jaw position that will hold the keys square to the jaws, in this case, with the L section I was working with, rotating the jaws 180 degrees provided the perfect clamp-up.
Then the tip gauges are set into in place, after which the keys are carefully set into place against them and checked for being parallel to the jaws and if not, readjusted, this is the most important step of the process, if either key is not parallel to the jaws and to the guide and cutter, you will not produce a proper workable duplicate key.
Once that is done, put on your safety glasses and begin duplicating.
Wash, rinse and repeat as needed and then clean up the shavings.
Need a plug is of some sort, so something is wrong, it works with most videos, the ones I have, but this one won't.
Having said that - as a former Best contractor I can tell you to always use originals. That is produce them with one of the punches or a Framon 2. I have good luck with both. I have never been a fan of rotary machine duplicates of Best keys. For some reason they are always off enough to work but not enough for a long term usage. Just my opinion from ages in the SFIC biz.
The early bird may get the worm, but it is the second mouse which gets the cheese! The only easy day was yesterday. Celebrating my 50th year in the trade!
Sinifar wrote:Need a plug is of some sort, so something is wrong, it works with most videos, the ones I have, but this one won't.
Having said that - as a former Best contractor I can tell you to always use originals. That is produce them with one of the punches or a Framon 2. I have good luck with both. I have never been a fan of rotary machine duplicates of Best keys. For some reason they are always off enough to work but not enough for a long term usage. Just my opinion from ages in the SFIC biz.
I cut Best keys on all sorts of machines, rarely have an issue and I don't even tip stop them correctly. I run the tip against the cutter and the guide and they always work just fine. I even tested one of my machines a Bravo III and stopped trying to get it to fail after 6 generations! A handy tool to keep the keys from twisting in the jaw, also useful on Schlage L is to use a plastic zip tie. Much better than those fiddly round wires or metal shims and can't hurt the cutter.
cledry wrote:I cut Best keys on all sorts of machines, rarely have an issue and I don't even tip stop them correctly. I run the tip against the cutter and the guide and they always work just fine. I even tested one of my machines a Bravo III and stopped trying to get it to fail after 6 generations! A handy tool to keep the keys from twisting in the jaw, also useful on Schlage L is to use a plastic zip tie. Much better than those fiddly round wires or metal shims and can't hurt the cutter.
cledry wrote:I cut Best keys on all sorts of machines, rarely have an issue and I don't even tip stop them correctly. I run the tip against the cutter and the guide and they always work just fine. I even tested one of my machines a Bravo III and stopped trying to get it to fail after 6 generations! A handy tool to keep the keys from twisting in the jaw, also useful on Schlage L is to use a plastic zip tie. Much better than those fiddly round wires or metal shims and can't hurt the cutter.
Good tip. Will have to try that some time.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
