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by 1970Vette » 22 Nov 2015 12:40
Hello Everyone,
I joined this forum just about one year ago, as I was looking for information on making working keys for antique (money box) still banks that I collect. The banks that I collect were manufactured between 1890 up into the 1930’s, but the primary date range is 1900 – 1920. Over the course of the last year, I have also determined that Corbin Cabinet Lock Company of New Britian, CT manufactured many of the banks that I collect, and sold them to distributors such as Burns Company of New York and Chicago and Bankers Service Corp. of New York. These Corbin still banks were very well built for their time, utilizing a 3 or 4 wafer or lever style lock that was spread out over 5/16 of an inch up to ½ inch long on a flat key. If you can picture a hand held miniature safe deposit box. That would be a good description of these miniature banks. The miniature advertising (money box) still banks were usually lent out to potential depositors as a promotion for them to start a Bank Account at a prospective bank. The depositor would usually start the account with a deposit of at least 1 dollar in order to be given the use of one of these still banks. The bank almost always kept the key to these banks, to promote forced savings. When the little bank was filled, you would bring them to the bank that issued them, and they would open the box, and deposit the contents into your account. These Home Banking Safes, usually employed a flat key, much like safe deposit boxes do today. Since the issuing bank almost always kept the key, most of banks that I purchase do not come with keys. Over time, I have made keys by hand, and if I try long enough, I am usually able to at least pick the lock. Making a working key is a bit more difficult for me, but I am successful about 66% of the time. Making a working key is a slow process for me, I have tried smoking the flat key blank but now have resorted to marking the key blank with a permanent marker and TRYING to “Impression” the key. I always make my throat cut first, so that the key blank will begin to make a slight turn. Then I mark the surface of the key with a marker, When I see tiny marks, I s l o w l y file at the key blank, removing a little metal at a time, until I hopefully see a the key make more of a turn. I am never sure how deep to file when I see those marks. At this point, I need the help of an expert. I am not sure where to file more to get the key to complete its travel. Most of these locks will open with ¼ turn! There have been times where I can jiggle the key and get the lock to open. My next step has been to make another pass with my file, and HOPEFULLY the lock will open without jiggling the key. There have been times when making that next cut have completely stopped the lock from opening again! Honestly that is extremely frustrating!!! When I am at that point, I always go slowly, because I know I am close. What am I doing wrong??? Is there a way to refine my approach, so as not to lose what I have accomplished? Any tips from an expert would be greatly appreciated.
I am attaching a photo of one of these dissected Corbin locks. You can see the steel housing and the brass levers and how they sit in the housing. Also in the photo is an example of one of the flat keys that will open the lock along with a separate brass lever with attached spring. This will give you a better idea of what I am dealing with. Please keep in mind, that making a working key is my goal.
Thank you so much for any help that you can provide
Sincerely, 1970Vette
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1970Vette
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by femurat » 22 Nov 2015 14:21
We can't see the picture you're talking about. The first post in the faq area may be interesting if you're having problems including pictures viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60483Incidentally, I bought today one of these little still banks and I'll make a key for it. I usually smoke the blank and impression the key like you described. I think it's not easy to distinguish a marking lever from a set one, because those both leave marks. I'll let someone with more experience with lever lock impressioning to try explain it to you. My naive explanation could confuse you even more. Cheers 
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by billdeserthills » 22 Nov 2015 15:31
I usually find the front of the key will continue to mark, almost through the whole process. Of course, if you file the front that's when the key turns all the way around without retracting the latch. Are you marking the front & back of the key bit? Honestly, some locks are just more difficult, if you can pick the lock it will be easy to make the key, you prolly already know that tho
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by 1970Vette » 22 Nov 2015 17:17
Hello billdeserthills,
Thank you for your reply. The reason that I can usually pick the lock, is that I use other keys that might be close, and I _ them slightly. I did purchase a lock pick kit, and have watched YouTube videos, but so far with no success.
Sincerely, Vette70
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1970Vette
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by 1970Vette » 22 Nov 2015 17:19
Hello femurat,
Thank you for replying. I am not at all familiar with marking levers or setting levers. I am sure that I am filing both.
Sincerely,
Vette70
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1970Vette
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by 1970Vette » 22 Nov 2015 17:29
Hello Everyone, Sorry that i was not able to post these two photos with my original post. Here they are now with the URL: http://1970vette.imgur.com/all/Sincerely, 1970Vette
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1970Vette
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by billdeserthills » 22 Nov 2015 22:55
1970Vette wrote:Hello Everyone, Sorry that i was not able to post these two photos with my original post. Here they are now with the URL: http://1970vette.imgur.com/all/Sincerely, 1970Vette
Linky no worky
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billdeserthills
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by 1970Vette » 23 Nov 2015 5:31
Sorry about that! I verified the link. The two photos SHOULD be visible now! Please let me know if they are not.
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1970Vette
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by femurat » 23 Nov 2015 5:35
I clicked the link and got the same error "1970Vette's images are not publicly available." If you already set your library as public, maybe it only needs some time to update your settings. Cheers 
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femurat
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by Squelchtone » 23 Nov 2015 10:54
1970Vette wrote:Sorry about that! I verified the link. The two photos SHOULD be visible now! Please let me know if they are not.
log out of Imgur and then try to click the links, then you'll know if someone other than your account can view them. It's a good way to test. Squelchtone
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by 1970Vette » 23 Nov 2015 23:44
Ok, I think that I FINALLY got it right!
Thank you Squelchtone!
Please let me know if you can see it now....
Sincerely, 1970Vette
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1970Vette
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by kwoswalt99- » 23 Nov 2015 23:50
I can see the little pictures, but I can't blow them up.  You'll get it eventually.  How about you logout and then upload the pics to imgur, and then link to the album. Just avoid the whole account thing altogether.
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by 1970Vette » 24 Nov 2015 5:32
The images should be much larger now. Please let me know if there is still a problem.
Thank you for your patience!
Sincerely, 1970Vette
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1970Vette
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by Squelchtone » 24 Nov 2015 9:12
1970Vette wrote:The images should be much larger now. Please let me know if there is still a problem.
Thank you for your patience!
Sincerely, 1970Vette
I click on the little thumbs and it says This account has no public images EDIT: actually.. I hovered over your thumbnails and got their file name, here are the direct links bypassing your album's security permissions:
http://i.imgur.com/WQQe1Uz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PJzp4lP.jpg
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Squelchtone
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by 1970Vette » 24 Nov 2015 11:22
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Squelchtone!!
I was about to pull my hair out!
Hopefully now I can get some feedback on what I am doing wrong, now that the photos are actually view-able!
Sincerely, 1970Vette
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1970Vette
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