Need advice on window and door security (photos included)

[vaio88]

Hello Everyone,

Moving new business into an industrial unit. Will be valuable machinery (large, heavy, harder to move/steal) and inventory (easy to move/steal) on site we want to protect. Area is a fairly remote industrial area, not alot of people around. Not much criminal activity I'm aware of but also nobody around if a criminal wanted to get in at night, and response time of police once notified is probably 15-30 minutes I'm guessing (I will find out further).

Three potential points of entry to bad guys (from right to left in the following photos):
- Windows on right-side garage bay doors (two sets of identical retracting bay doors both with windows)
- Centre solid door going into the industrial area (has a small window with embedded wire)
- Left-side door goes into a small office and then through another door (no lock) into industrial area



The windows on the garage bay doors are protected by some metal rods installed on the inside of the doors. Pretty flimsy, I feel like I could bend or rip them off with bare hands or maybe some simple tools. Glass is just single pane, someone could break easily.





Central door has metal frame, feels sturdy. The lower half of the frame is connected to concrete on the left and right sides, upper half and above are corrugated metal, all looks and feels pretty strong but what do I know. There is an upper Schlage deadbolt and a lower Dorex key/handle (the Dorex says UL and F on it, don't know what that means in terms of certification).
You will see from the image of the front of the door there is a wire-glass window. Also note there is a large gap between the door and the frame, almost a centimeter wide, so you can actually see the deadbolt and keybolt going into the frame, I assume that's a security risk?
Also, there are three hinges on the outside of this door, took photo of one for example, I read somewhere this may be a big security risk, better to have a door with hinges inside?









Lastly, the glass door. There is alot of glass with the door and surrounding windows looking into office area. Luckily the windows are tinted quite dark but not 100%, hard to see in, easy to see out.
They key mechanism says "Adams Rite - Assa Abloy".
Door has two hinges at top and bottom of the door, took photo of one. Is this a risk also?






Questions:
- Are these deadbolts / key-handle mechanisms decent?
- Are the outside hinges on the doors a big problem? Do I need to replace doors with inside-hinge versions?
- Any ideas on most cost-efficient way to protect the glass door and surrounding glass windows? Is it cheaper to install bars on windows inside or replace windows more break-resistant versions, I'm guessing the former?
- Are these metal frames good enough?
- What about the gap between door and frame for the centre door?
- Is the wire-embedded window in the centre door a big risk? If I had to replace the whole door I would probably go for a solid door with peephole instead
- How about protecting the garage bay door windows?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Budget say couple hundred dollars, but could go up to $1,000 if necessary

Thank you

[cledry]

3M film on glass.

Kawneer pivots are a possible security risk, replace with Roton hinge. Put a latch protector that interlocks and also covers the cylinder in front door Major Manufacturing Aluma Guard . Lock cylinder you have is junk, replace that.

Steel door is fine as is glass but add 3M film. Check hinges, they probably already are NRP hinges. Install latch guard with interlocking pins I prefer Trimco. Deadbolt is a bit weak, bolt is vulnerable, consider one with an anti probe guard built into the outside housing.

3M film on roll up doors is good if someone could fit through.

You could add a padlock and hasp anchored to cement on each side and add another in each track.

You won't get this work done for $1000 though.

[Raymond]

Looks like the biggest potential threat is the wall above the concrete. It appears to be normal steel building sheeting and can be cut or ripped off. Hinges must open out due to fire/safety codes. You might be able to beef things up with expanded metal steel screen covering all the windows. Build a steel door with welded bars that can slide in front of the complete glass doors and windows. You might consider a roll down security door. This is going to get pricey and it will only deter the amateurs. Consider better alarms and cameras and mount some cameras at the end of each building.

[vaio88]

Thank you both for the quick reply.

cledry:
- 3M film on all the glass: agreed
- Replacing the pivots on the glass door with a Roton continuous hinge: like the idea but seems would be expensive, do you have a ballpark idea what that would cost?
- Going to put latchguard on both doors
- I'm thinking either Abloy or Bilock lock cylinders on both doors, seems everyone on this site recommends those two, any others I should be considering? How much are new cylinders at that level of quality?

Raymond:
- Like your ideas, unfortunately our landlord doesn't want us to do anything too major like extra exterior security doors, roll downs, etc
- Unit is already wired for the latest code standard, we still need to choose which alarm company to go with. Any opinion on whether 2 way alarm systems are better (alarm company can talk to people in the unit through speakers) than ones that simply notify the alarm company and they have to call us and/or the police? My major two criteria I guess would be response time and monthly cost

[cledry]

Thank you both for the quick reply.

cledry:
- 3M film on all the glass: agreed
- Replacing the pivots on the glass door with a Roton continuous hinge: like the idea but seems would be expensive, do you have a ballpark idea what that would cost?
- Going to put latchguard on both doors
- I'm thinking either Abloy or Bilock lock cylinders on both doors, seems everyone on this site recommends those two, any others I should be considering? How much are new cylinders at that level of quality?

Raymond:
- Like your ideas, unfortunately our landlord doesn't want us to do anything too major like extra exterior security doors, roll downs, etc
- Unit is already wired for the latest code standard, we still need to choose which alarm company to go with. Any opinion on whether 2 way alarm systems are better (alarm company can talk to people in the unit through speakers) than ones that simply notify the alarm company and they have to call us and/or the police? My major two criteria I guess would be response time and monthly cost

$330 installed is our price for a Roton. Cylinders will run about $90 to $135 typically each, you might look at a less expensive option like Schlage Primus. A lot of guys say they can pick these but they aren't doing it out in the field, what one picks sitting down at a bench and in the real world are quite different. For the storefront door I only recommend the latch guard I specified, there are others but not as good.

[MatrixBlackRock]

Any opinion on whether 2 way alarm systems are better (alarm company can talk to people in the unit through speakers) than ones that simply notify the alarm company and they have to call us and/or the police? My major two criteria I guess would be response time and monthly cost

It appears your building is already wired for a hardwire burglar and fire alarm system and I would suggest you find a company that can utilize the existing wiring, if it is in good condition and or replace it as needed.

The reason I mention this is because a large number of the alarm companies out there offering two way voice monitoring are for a lack of a better term, offering systems, most commonly wireless which are more of a monthly recurring revenue generator (RMR) then actual security systems.

Avoid them at al costs.

The building you pictured is a good example of where not to utilize wireless, even really good supervised wireless.

My recommendation is find a local company that has the ability to issue a commercial U.L. Alarm System Certificate, even if you don't need one.

Alarm companies that work in the commercial market and have the ability to issue such certificates tend to remain around and they actually understand alarm systems and the proper application of detection devices based on the level of protection required.

And the established guys in many cases can offer more in monitoring services to you at a lower cost, they know what the intended application requires and that experience not only increases there profit, it saves you money.

Also keep in mind many states require licensing of alarm contractors, depending on where you are located you might want to check into that.

Wayne

[vaio88]

cledry:

Thanks for the follow up.

I was hoping to go with Bilock cylinders as they are supposed to be cheaper than Abloy but it's turned out to difficult to find an authorized dealer nearby, would likely have to pay extra for the long drive which would negate the savings of cheaper price versus Abloy.

Finding a Schlage Primus supplier should be easier. Do you recommend any other high-security lock that is cheaper than Abloy? Also, I read on some posts on this site that I should be going with the top-end Primus which is UL147 certified, is that correct?

MatrixBlockRock:

Thanks for the points on alarm system. I'm going to look for a hard-wired fire/burglar alarm service provider and be careful about finding someone reputable. The advice about ULC certification is helpful.

[MBI]

BiLock used to be a bit cheaper but their prices have gone up and there isn't much difference anymore. At least not the last time I compared. In terms of toughness and security, I'd go for Abloy over BiLock. Best price and availability on both BiLock and Abloy is probably through Security Snobs.

https://securitysnobs.com/

[Squelchtone]

Don't forget some new alarm and cctv decals on the doors and windows, even if you do not have alarm and cameras set up yet, it would cause fear/doubt for a someone thinking of breaking in. How well lit are your doors at night? Would landlord allow you to install light fixtures to the building to downlight the entry ways making them less inviting to a bad guy?

I vote on doing things in this order: put 3M security film on the windows, put alarm and cctv decals on doors and windows, get monitored alarm up and running (might mean having to get a working landline ordered from phone company, landlord, or see if existing alarm panel can take a GSM cellular module), rekey the current lock cylinders in order to lockout any old tenants/employees with a spare key if ordering and installing higher security cylinders will take you more than 1 to 2 weeks. I agree with cledry on latch guards and the door hinge.

If you won't be using all the doors all the time, and it isn't against any fire/life safety rules there, lock them from the inside using some sliding bolts like this one: http://www.hardwarestore.com/heavy-duty ... 03965.aspx , this way someone picking or drilling the outside cylinder can't get in, the door is locked from the inside. After that go to Costco and get a 4 camera system and actually start recording video onto the DVR, which is hidden or in a locked room/cabinet so if place is broken into they don't just rip out the DVR and take it with them.

Squelchtone

[dll932]

I would also put an anti-wrench collar around the aluminum-glass door cylinder, in addition to the other suggestions. Is there adequate lighting at night?

[cledry]

I would also put an anti-wrench collar around the aluminum-glass door cylinder, in addition to the other suggestions. Is there adequate lighting at night?

You don't need it and it won't work with the latch protector from Major Manufacturing that I mentioned. The hole is smaller than the cylinder which sits underneath the plate. It allows the key to pass through. On the frame also under the plate is another piece that prevents spreading of the frame. It is easier to understand if you look at the installation sheet.

http://www.majormfg.com/instructions/download.aspx?part=ALUMA+GUARD

[vaio88]

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the feedback thus far, here is the latest update.

I had a well-known local locksmith come to the unit and do a free consultation, they do both residential and commercial and apparently do work for the city government etc. FYI they are an authorized dealer for Abloy Protec and Mul-T-Lock (can't find anyone around for Bilock or Schlage Primus yet).

They said Abloy are really good for quality and reliability but have less features. They are trying to sell me on the features of the Mul-T-Lock, one of which is that there is an "emergency key" you can use if you think your key has been lost or compromised you can use the emergency key and it locks out the other keys. Also apparently it's easier to get new keys or something to that effect? Is any of that true?

They quoted $80 each for two Mul-T-Lock cylinders for the two doors:
- Mul-T-Lock 1 1/8" Mortise Cylinder Interactive 264+ 02100
- Mul-T-Lock Schlage Kik Cylinder Interactive Fixed and Lazy tail 264+ 03003

Abloy Protec cylinders would be $100-110 per cylinder.

Can everyone give their opinion on the above Mul-T-Lock cylinders versus the Protecs? Locksmith seems to think I'm going overkill with the Protecs, and that the Mul-T-Lock is just as good security but more features, but that doesn't seem to jive with the analysis on this forum I've read.

Also, to install two lock cylinders and two latchguards, they want to charge $65 for Labor plus $47 for "Regular Hours Service Call", does this sound reasonable?

dlll932: To answer your question there is decent light outside but I will be asking landlord to make sure all lightbulbs are working outside my unit, and I may install one or extra lights above my doors to deter intruders further.

Ian

[Squelchtone]

Worked at a shop that looked not unlike that one years ago. A disgruntled employee broke in one night by using a destructive entry method that is not permitted to be discussed outside of the advanced forums.

We prevented a re-occurrence by placing $2 snap links through holes drilled in the ends of the tongues where they passed through the roll-up door track each night when locking up. In that way the door stays locked.

Please do not mention specific destructive entry methods outside of the advanced forums. Don't think there is any problem with telling that a simple thing like the snap rings can be used to prevent one form of destructive entry. But please refrain from telling methods of destructive entry, even if they may seem to be common sense.

Thank you,

GWiens2001 - moderator

[Squelchtone]

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the feedback thus far, here is the latest update.

I had a well-known local locksmith come to the unit and do a free consultation, they do both residential and commercial and apparently do work for the city government etc. FYI they are an authorized dealer for Abloy Protec and Mul-T-Lock (can't find anyone around for Bilock or Schlage Primus yet).

They said Abloy are really good for quality and reliability but have less features. They are trying to sell me on the features of the Mul-T-Lock, one of which is that there is an "emergency key" you can use if you think your key has been lost or compromised you can use the emergency key and it locks out the other keys. Also apparently it's easier to get new keys or something to that effect? Is any of that true?

They quoted $80 each for two Mul-T-Lock cylinders for the two doors:
- Mul-T-Lock 1 1/8" Mortise Cylinder Interactive 264+ 02100
- Mul-T-Lock Schlage Kik Cylinder Interactive Fixed and Lazy tail 264+ 03003

Abloy Protec cylinders would be $100-110 per cylinder.

Can everyone give their opinion on the above Mul-T-Lock cylinders versus the Protecs? Locksmith seems to think I'm going overkill with the Protecs, and that the Mul-T-Lock is just as good security but more features, but that doesn't seem to jive with the analysis on this forum I've read.

Also, to install two lock cylinders and two latchguards, they want to charge $65 for Labor plus $47 for "Regular Hours Service Call", does this sound reasonable?

dlll932: To answer your question there is decent light outside but I will be asking landlord to make sure all lightbulbs are working outside my unit, and I may install one or extra lights above my doors to deter intruders further.

Ian

the labor prices are what I would call the national average and look very fair. Mul-t-lock does have interesting features, but can be picked with normal picks if someone is a proficient picker or with a $70 dollar tool available online. Abloy Protect cannot be picked *yet*, but some drilling attacks and punching attacks exist. the prices quotes for your lock cylinders are spot on. If you go with Mul-t-lock make sure it is Interactive or MT5 version and not the older Garrison or 7 by 7 (7x7) which is outdated.

thanks for updating us!
Squelchtone

[cledry]

Actually the prices for labour are pretty low, so I would say fair for sure. Which latch guards are they quoting? Abloy all the way as far as I am concerned.