New Safe - Strange Locking Mechanism

[djed]

I just purchased a new safe (about 1,000 lbs) rated TL15:

http://imgur.com/QGpe2Bs
http://imgur.com/kXE1swM
http://imgur.com/A5XxXwU
http://imgur.com/3QS068N
http://imgur.com/a8I4QAZ
http://imgur.com/oxyRBZR
http://imgur.com/RufvD06
http://imgur.com/ZX3pAHi (grooved recess in hinge side)
http://imgur.com/I6dhoHy (grooved recess in door side where bar inserts)

Instead of bolts protruding out the door, there is a single bar that extends from the door into a recessed groove in the safe wall.

There is another bar on the hinge side of the door that is welded/formed into the door. There are no bolts on the top and bottom.

A couple of questions.

1) Is this type of safe locking mechanism (the bar, instead of the bolts) secure? It seems like it would only be as secure as the bolts holding the moving bar.
2) Does anybody recognize the manufacturer?
3) The dial is hard to turn at times. Can this be serviced? ... by me? (I am handy but not experienced).

Thank you.

David

[Squelchtone]

I think I understand what you mean, but a photo of the entire inside of the door showing the entire bolt work would be very helpful.

[Squelchtone]

I will say you have a Diebold based on the cam and flat locking bar.

[djed]

I think I understand what you mean, but a photo of the entire inside of the door showing the entire bolt work would be very helpful.

I edited the initial post to include links to the additional pictures you requested.

[djed]

I will say you have a Diebold based on the cam and flat locking bar.

Is a "flat locking bar" as/more effective than protruding bolts? It seems like the safe is only as secure as the strength of the bolts holding the bar. They are thick bolts but ... The good news is that the door is recessed and with a tight tolerance to the safe wall.

What about the drag on the dial? Fixable?

[bitbuster]

squelch is correct in that it is a diebold. the flat locking bars were used in their old style square door safes and round locking bars in their new style square door safes.the safe is well secure with the flat locking bar. the hard turning dial can be serviced by you if you are careful and assemble it in opposite sequence from teardown. wipe down all lock parts before assembly.

[Squelchtone]

I will say you have a Diebold based on the cam and flat locking bar.

Is a "flat locking bar" as/more effective than protruding bolts? It seems like the safe is only as secure as the strength of the bolts holding the bar. They are thick bolts but ... The good news is that the door is recessed and with a tight tolerance to the safe wall.

What about the drag on the dial? Fixable?

drag on dial at all locations or only at a certain spot as you spin the dial? good chance that thing's taken a hit in the dial/dial ring over the years causing things to get.. uneven with the surface of the door and the angle of the dangle.

You can remove the back cover of the lock and spin the dial and see if it is any better. If you pull the dial knob in and out does it move a1/16 of an inch or is it pretty close and tight to the dial ring?

You could remove the spline key out of the spindle using some needle nose pliers pulling directly away from the lock body, then unscrew the dial from the cam 1 full revolution and insert the spline key back into the save groove it was in the spindle and cam. Those slots are marked VU VD RH LH make note of which one it is in before you remove it to unscrew the dial. you want to put it back into the same one.

now try to spin the dial and see if it is smooth or still dragging in certain spots.. you may have to remove the dial and spindle and make sure the dial ring is centered over the hole in the door, then insert the dial and screw on the cam and spin it and see if the drag goes away.

Here is your new bible: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/pdf/book_mech_locks.pdf

Cool safe by the way, I wish stuff like that came my way more often!
Squelchtone

PS. thanks for the confirmation bitbuster! I was typing my novel as you replied.

[djed]

Thank you all for the help.

Drag seems particularly noticeable at a certain spot.

Step one - figure out how to get the safe off my truck and into my workshop.

Step two - disassemble/reassemble. I'll take pictures as I go and would appreciate help if I get stuck.

Step three - clean, strip, and repaint.

Step four - move into my office.

[Raymond]

The tight dial in only one place is most likely caused by the dial ring being not perfectly centered. Look at the space between the dial and dial ring to see if there is any visible difference on one side. Correction is by tapping the dial ring to move it a very small amount to correct the misalignment. I like to use a piece of wood aginst the side of the dial ring and hit the wood with a hammer. Turn the dial to the tight area and tap the dial ring to see if the tightness is relieved. Dial rings can often be moved out of alignment accidently by bumping with boxes, dollies, carts, etc. So this is pretty normal. And, the screws can just get loose over many years.

All of the rest of the advice for cleaning and servicing your lock is still strongly advisable.

[djed]

As I started to read the "bible" referenced above, I noticed the comment on page 16 to the use of a "new" spline key (as opposed to reusing the existing one).

Assuming it is needed, where do you recommend I purchase a spline key?

Are there any other supplies I should purchase at the same time.

I'll keep reading...

[Squelchtone]

As I started to read the "bible" referenced above, I noticed the comment on page 16 to the use of a "new" spline key (as opposed to reusing the existing one).

Assuming it is needed, where do you recommend I purchase a spline key?

Are there any other supplies I should purchase at the same time.

I'll keep reading...

you cant really get one at a hardware store, was your spline key wobbly or very loose? if not just reuse it. I can understand why they recommend a new one, years of dependability and not risking the spline key breaking off which would lead to a separation of the dial from the wheel pack due to the brass being fatigued from being pulled out and reinserted during service cycles. I'd reuse it if it isnt bent and twisted to shi*t during the pulling it out process.

You can buy them here, there may be min qty's and min shipping prices since it only costs a buck or so for the part, and you may need a locksmith account to buy from here:
http://mbausa.com/s-g-spline-key-6600-6700-8500/

if you do buy from there, get an S&G 3 wheel change key as well for $7 if you dont already have one, so you can change combinations. http://mbausa.com/s-g-change-key-3-wheel/

hope this helps,
Squelchtone

[djed]

Bad news. Despite my best efforts, we weren't able to load the safe into the trailer I rented.

Getting it up the trailer ramp (all of 18" high on a 35-40 degree slope) with the palet jack was too much for the three of us. I had estimated 750lbs but I'm guessing it exceeds 1,000 pounds. I couldn't load it with the forklift because the ramp was in the way and the forks on the lift don't extend forward.

I listed the safe for sale on Craigslist but may try a different trailer (with no ramp) if it doesn't sell. I'm in the Los Angeles area if anyone wants to take over this project. I figure if I load it on the trailer with the forklift, I can off load at my workshop by disconnecting the trailer and tilting the trailer end down by raising the trailer tongue.

[Raymond]

Did you try a winch to just drag it up the ramp while on the pallet jack? How about parking the trailer in the street with the ramp on top of the curb? Good luck.

[djed]

I need to buy a winch. You're the third person to make that suggestion.

Curb would have been a good suggestion at the time. I wish I would have thought of that. I guess it didn't dawn on us because the warehouse is so far from the street.

[Squelchtone]

I need to buy a winch. You're the third person to make that suggestion.

Curb would have been a good suggestion at the time. I wish I would have thought of that. I guess it didn't dawn on us because the warehouse is so far from the street.

call a flatbed tow truck operator, they can tilt their bed, and pull the safe onto the bed with their winch that is meant to pull entire cars. might cost you $100-$200 for the tow, I've seen it done, it's always fun to see a Jerdan tow truck with an old antique safe square in the middle of it's bed strapped down for a drive around town.



wish I had an Air Tow trailer!