Here are my two Euro cylinders, the bottom one is from "Wagner", which I repinned yesterday, and the other is from "Laperche" which I show the repinning of.
http://tinypic.com/li9oh
In the Wagner, each cylinder is 5 pins, with two spools. I don't know which position, since I can't think of any way to extract the plug without letting the driver pins out (you can't remove the cam and get into the back without removing both plugs). It was quite easy to pick when I removed the spools, easier than the Laperche, Schlage and Yale I have tried. I think this may be due to the springs being weak, although it could also be the machining quality.
Here is a closer look at the Laperche:
http://tinypic.com/li9tv
I have seen Euro cylinders mounted both ways up, but in this description I'll assume that the pins are above the plug (which seems to be more common in the doors I've looked at recently)
Firstly remove the circlips:
http://tinypic.com/li9ud
This can be quite tricky. There is not much room to get at the circlips so I bought some circlip pliers, but very fine needle-nodes pliers might do as well.
Then you can remove the plugs. You need to take out both to remove the cam, but if you just want to repin a cylinder you only need to take out one. To do so, put the key in (or pick it), rotate 90 degrees and pull it out, being careful not to lose any pins.
Here is the lock fully dismantled:
http://tinypic.com/li9uq
On the top row, from left to right there is
- Key in the plug, with key pins
- Spacing cylinder
- Cam
- Coupling
- Second plug, with key pins
Below those are the springs and driver pins, lock body, circlips and key. This was a five pin lock, but I was surprised to find no security pins.
Here is a closeup of the key, plug, spacing cylinder, cam and coupling:
http://tinypic.com/li9z8
The two parts of the coupling rotate freely and fit into the slots cut in the cam and both plugs.
I decided to put three pins in one side, and four in the other:
http://tinypic.com/lia0o
So now to reassemble it. First you need to put the springs and driver pins back in. A normal plug follower can't be used since you only have access to one end. If there is only one cylinder you could cut dowel into slices and push them in/out via the space where the cam is, but this wouldn't work for double cylinders, since the cam has to go in before either cylinder. So I made a tool like the "Mounting Clamp/Montageklammer" sold by Multipick-Service. I used a large paperclip, which was 160mm long when unfolded.
Here is a picture of it, and the paperclip used:
http://tinypic.com/li9zm
The middle section needs to be thin enough to fit in the bottom of the keyway, and long enough to cover all the pins. The side parts should be longer than the middle part and far enough away from the middle to fit around the top section of the lock body.
Also note the bend in the middle section, this is needed to let the anti-shimming lip of the plug to pass over it:
http://tinypic.com/lia01
Start from the front of the lock, put a spring in, then the driver pin and while holding down the pin, slide the mounting clamp forward to cover it. Repeat until all the pins are in. Here is a picture of the pinning completed:
http://tinypic.com/lia14
If you took the cam out, put this back in, along with the coupling. The coupling needs to slot through the cam, and also into the other plug. Also if there are any spacing cylinders, put these back too. In the Wagner lock, the spacing cylinders had a concave section in them, which went towards the key, but in the Laperche they were flat at both ends.
Now put the plug back in. Turn it upside down so the bottom of the keyway is over the pins. If the mounting clamp is the right size you should be able to slide the plug back in:
http://tinypic.com/lia28
The cylinder will not go completely in until it slots into the coupling, so carefully rotate the cam or coupling until it does. You should be able to see and manipulate the coupling in the space where the circlips were.
One the plugs are fully seated you can replace the circlips and you are done.
