Victor Safe Purchase

[djed]

I swore I wouldn't buy another safe for a while but I couldn't resist because it was almost free.









I think it's a Victor but any other information about it (including value) is appreciated.

[bitbuster]

The lock is a Yale L1 or Yale L2. Prices can be all over the board, from very little to much more than I would pay, even for a refurbished one. Wide range in prices, coast to coast.If you see one on Storage Wars it will go sky high. Victor's I've sold in the past were never priced higher than $175.

[bitbuster]

Looks like it had been drilled at 10 0'clock.

[bitbuster]

Oops, drilled at arounrd 4 or 5 o'clock.

[djed]

Yes - definitely drilled, casters removed, and painted with house paint.

I rubbed the door with solvent to see if I could discover any history under the layers of paint and came to what I believe is olive colored enamel paint.

The patent date on the dial is 1888. Any idea on the age of this safe? I believe there was an 1895 patent so I'm guessing between 1888 and 1895.

[djed]

Stripped the door and now see that the safe was drilled in three places.

That leads me to ask the experts on this board if there is a good video out there on hole repair. I'll leave it to the moderators to suggest if the video should be posted in the advanced section of this site.

Thank you.

[Squelchtone]

Stripped the door and now see that the safe was drilled in three places.

That leads me to ask the experts on this board if there is a good video out there on hole repair. I'll leave it to the moderators to suggest if the video should be posted in the advanced section of this site.

Thank you.

That's such a specific topic that it's doubtful there is a video for it. It's the kind of knowledge passed from one safeman/locksmith to another, or taught in person during safe drilling get togethers called Penetration Parties.

I have a book or two that mentions some techniques, including welding, filling the hole with tapered pins or ball bearings, and using things like JB Weld or Carbinex safe repair putty which has carbide chips in it.

Look for Keedex K-16 which is a safe hole repair kit that includes the stuff I wrote about in the last paragraph.

Squelchtone

[djed]

Thanks - will do.

I had thought I could use my oxy-acetylene torch but was told by another member that the torch might be too hot. I have a sense of how I might approach the issue with my wire feed welder but I'm sure your suggestions will help.

Again - thank you.

[djed]

Here's a few helpful links for those that may find this thread in the future.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TmS6Ec0NzXQ

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=njqL8roxFr0

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/project-pi ... sed-holes/

http://www.kevincaron.com/video_detail.php?id=152

For our application, if the wall is thick enough, it might be a good idea to insert the hardened ball bearings along with some JB Weld referenced by Squelchtone above.

[74TR6]

I have had very good results patching holes using a wire (mig) welder. The key is to keep the heat down by taking your time. Make about three or four tack welds and walk away until you can place your hand on the weld area; add about 3 or 4 more tacks and walk away again; repeat until hole is filled Then grind your weld and finish; the flap sanding disks work better than regular grinding wheels. I use a 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder. A bit of auto body glazing putty will fill any grind marks if needed and have you ready for primer and paint as desired