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by lokpikr999 » 1 Jul 2016 2:20
"Honest people shouldn't be denied technical information because someone might use it to commit crimes."-Bill Phillips,The Complete Book Of Locks and Locksmthing
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lokpikr999
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by Silverado » 1 Jul 2016 7:32
Looks pretty good. I am definitely ordering that pin kit. Been looking at them, and the ones I found were WAY out of my budget. That one you linked isn't really expensive.
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by Tyler J. Thomas » 1 Jul 2016 12:39
If he's going to be servicing/rekeying Kwikset locks, he will need a pickle fork, aka cylinder removal tool.
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by Silverado » 1 Jul 2016 13:20
Got a link for that Confederate?
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by lokpikr999 » 1 Jul 2016 18:46
Silverado wrote:Looks pretty good. I am definitely ordering that pin kit. Been looking at them, and the ones I found were WAY out of my budget. That one you linked isn't really expensive.
You may one look at this one,as it is reasonably priced yet it has master pins as well as more sizes of top and bottom pins http://www.lockpicks.com/lab-mini-003-u ... n-kit.html
"Honest people shouldn't be denied technical information because someone might use it to commit crimes."-Bill Phillips,The Complete Book Of Locks and Locksmthing
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by Squelchtone » 1 Jul 2016 19:18
Is a Foley Belsaw 200 key machine really a good starting point for someone looking to be a locksmith? I mean they give you one when you complete the correspondence classes. I think for a little more he can get a used or new ILCO on craigslist or from HL Flake or another national locksmith supply house. I also don't see any lock picks on this list, even a basic $30 dollar Southord set is handy when working with locks, such as during shimming unless you use a blank key method. Does you friend already have the usual assortment of handy man tools such as cordless drills, screwdrivers, drill bits, hole saws, files, hammers, mallets, chisels, utility knives, levels, spray lubricants, table vice, dremel tool, lock installation and common screws, nuts, and bolts that residential and commercial doors use? a door locks installation jig is very handy, he should use it on some spare doors or even on a 2/4 to practice prepping a door for a new knobset and deadbolt installation: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Door- ... /202248712It's a bit dated, but your friend may learn a lot by reading Bill Phillips Book of Locks and Locksmithing which talks about locks and about running a business. https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Lo ... 0071448292Do you know what kind of locksmithing work he wants to get into? is he just copying keys out of his trunk at a flea market, or opening a shop where people bring in cylinders to be rekeyed? or visiting people who call him to rekey their front door locks while he's parked in their driveway? will he have a van with a work bench or a portable folding table and comfortable chair? Hope this helps and I only ask all those questions to provide you with the best advice for your friends exact type of locksmith work he wishes to get into. Thanks, Squelchtone

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by lokpikr999 » 10 Jul 2016 19:05
Squelchtone wrote:Is a Foley Belsaw 200 key machine really a good starting point for someone looking to be a locksmith? I mean they give you one when you complete the correspondence classes. I think for a little more he can get a used or new ILCO on craigslist or from HL Flake or another national locksmith supply house. I also don't see any lock picks on this list, even a basic $30 dollar Southord set is handy when working with locks, such as during shimming unless you use a blank key method. Does you friend already have the usual assortment of handy man tools such as cordless drills, screwdrivers, drill bits, hole saws, files, hammers, mallets, chisels, utility knives, levels, spray lubricants, table vice, dremel tool, lock installation and common screws, nuts, and bolts that residential and commercial doors use? a door locks installation jig is very handy, he should use it on some spare doors or even on a 2/4 to practice prepping a door for a new knobset and deadbolt installation: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Door- ... /202248712It's a bit dated, but your friend may learn a lot by reading Bill Phillips Book of Locks and Locksmithing which talks about locks and about running a business. https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Lo ... 0071448292Do you know what kind of locksmithing work he wants to get into? is he just copying keys out of his trunk at a flea market, or opening a shop where people bring in cylinders to be rekeyed? or visiting people who call him to rekey their front door locks while he's parked in their driveway? will he have a van with a work bench or a portable folding table and comfortable chair? Hope this helps and I only ask all those questions to provide you with the best advice for your friends exact type of locksmith work he wishes to get into. Thanks, Squelchtone
He has key chain lock pick set(As well as a pick gun)and as a matter of fact,he has been reading that book.However as you mentioned it is dated(As well as not very comprehensive in certain chapters.Specifically in respects to those on lock picking and auto entry(But considering the fact that he was a former repo guy,he is very well versed in that field)and because of that,I recommended this course package.(I recently ordered the courses on Automotive key genereration and I.C cores and I was very impressed)http://locksmithdvd.com/options%20to%20buy/option3advanced.htm.Now the reason I recommend that key machine is because it has guide that has an integral micrometer,and more importantly,three different cutter wheels(Standard,double angle(Which makes code cutting with depth keys a lot easier),and a slotter)as well as their respective guides.
"Honest people shouldn't be denied technical information because someone might use it to commit crimes."-Bill Phillips,The Complete Book Of Locks and Locksmthing
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lokpikr999
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by johnb007 » 11 Jul 2016 11:39
That's a good list. I saved it for offline shopping. I concur that there should be a set of picks added, but maybe that's just implied already 
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by ltdbjd » 23 Jul 2016 3:38
A few things to consider. You won't need them all right away, but these are nice to have. Most of these things I learned the hard way.
I wouldn't spend the money on a set of space and depth keys. They don't really serve much of a purpose, and they are a real pain trying to duplicate from. If you really want them, find a locksmith friend to make you a set.
I'd look at getting the HPC follower set. There are four different sizes stacked inside each other, and the have different ends to better match with the different cylinders. I'd also get the Keedex master follower for removing master pins.
A couple broken key extractors are good to have.
A tiny screwdriver or single tiny allen wrench mass taking the caps off KIKs a lot less frustrating. They also help removing clips that are too big for the pickle fork to get.
You'll probably need more KIK's than mortise cylinders. You'll probably need both 5 and 6 pin Schlage blanks, as well as some of the other common residential blanks. I'm not sure why you have the KW11 listed, but the KW1 will be your go-to Kwikset key.
I think a universal pin kit, while pricy, is pretty important. Look for the .003" kits, otherwise invest in a file to make the locks turn smoothly. Along the same lines, I'd get a few C and E clips (otherwise you'll be sad when one goes flying at night in the dark), springs (same reason), caps (ditto) and mortise screws (repeat if necessary).
A piece of carpet or the LAB mat will help keep your tiny pins and parts from rolling off your work surface. I also like my cheap magnetic bowl to hold stuff like springs, clips, caps, screws, etc.
A screw extractor kit will come in handy, as will a cordless Dremel. When you can afford it, the Keedex mortise screw remover is a lifesaver for removing the stripped mortise screws.
Get a Kwikset Smartkey change tool. Not necessarily the cradle, but the part you use in the lock face slot to rekey the lock.
Some wood glue and toothpicks are a handy and inexpensive way of fixing stripped screw holes.
Grab some cleaners and lubricants. A can of compressed air can be a lifesaver.
Waterless hand cleaner/degreaser (like the orange pumice kind) is a plus.
A brass magnet will be a lifesaver when you spill your pins. When you find a good source for one, please post where you found it.
No-Doze and a big coffee mug.
Start your own "graveyard" of parts. Save parts you have leftover, remove, don't need, scrounge, etc. those come in handy. If you do a rekey, save the original keys that came with the box. You can always reuse them if you get into a bind.
Phone numbers to a couple friends/mentors who can answer the zillions of questions that always come up.
I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE the Craftsman auto loading multi bit screwdriver. I couldn't live without it. I carried one on my belt and had one in my van. I had a second one I replaced all the standard bits with Torx bits. it will save countless trips out to the van to get the right screwdriver you need.
Along the same lines, a Leatherman type tool comes in handy, as does a headlamp.
You can get some basic tools for cheap from Harbor Freight. A set of pin punches, bolt cutters, etc.
The wax furniture crayon things, sparkle and a small tube of white caulk from a hardware store cover up a lot of "uh-oh" screwdriver and chisel accidents.
Band-Aids, Neosporin and Excedrine.
Be a professional. Get a DustBuster or shopvac and a drop cloth to avoid messes and clean up after yourself. A fresh install makes a big mess. Some disposable shoe covers are a good thing to have so you don't track mud across your customers white carpet. You'll rarely use them though. 95% of the time a customer would tell me not to worry about it when they saw me put them on.
You've heard the expression for the need to have duct tape and WD-40, right? If it moves and it's not supposed to, use duct tape. If it doesn't move and it's supposed to, use WD-40.
Sun screen and bug spray.
A power inverter to run electrical things from your car. And an extension cord!!
A couple Cliff Bars and some water for when you are stuck on a job and are about to starve to death. An empty Gatorade bottle for when you drank all your water, but you're still stuck on the job and your bladder is about to explode.
I have other ideas, but it's 0240, and my wife is yelling at me to put my iPad away and go to sleep. Sheesh. Hope this gives you at least a couple things you didn't think about. Again, most of this stuff I learned the hard way.
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by cledry » 23 Jul 2016 7:11
I would say buy the common blanks in at least 250 packs. Kwikset, Schlage C (5 & 6 pin), Weiser WR5, Master M1, Yale Y1. Buying blanks in small lots of 10 increases the price dramatically. Besides one small job would deplete all his stock. He will soon see what other keys he needs frequently and be able to decide if he needs 250, 50, or 10. Foley Belsaw machine is not really that good. You can pick up a better machine secondhand for $150 - $200. Space and depth keys are a rather amateur way of originating keys, especially if he plans to do master key work. Even if he has to lease a machine, I would jump in with a good code machine. (PS I have a Framon for sale) Number and letter stamps for stamping keys is something we use every day. Give away key rings will be needed. GAK4 or GAK6. Invoices of course. A way to run credit cards. A subscription to a code program. Get a screwdriver that has security bits. You will need this quite a bit in commercial work, but also the Torx for newer Schlage locks. A bit of business advice. If he never plans to do safe work, auto work etc. he should make friends with a specialist in those fields and offer to send business their way in return for a cut, or in return for leads from them. We refer auto work to a locksmith that only does auto work and we get $25 a car when he makes keys. Some days we send him 2 cars other days it is 10. It is better than not making any money from our advertising.
Jim
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cledry
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by cledry » 23 Jul 2016 7:13
Key decoders are a waste IMO. Better to buy calipers and measure the keys yourself. Not only can you measure almost any key but you can determine errors in the key.
Jim
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cledry
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by cledry » 23 Jul 2016 7:25
The GMS mortise cylinders are a pretty good product.
We sell a lot of similar ones. I would check to see what the market asks for these before setting prices. I have seen some guys sell for as low as $10 a cylinder to as much as $300 the latter was a scammer from Israel who told the customer it was high security. We charge $18.98 & $26.98 for other keyways.
Stock should be 26D and duro 1" in the following, SC1, Y1 and KW1. SC1 & Y1 being the more popular. We stock twice as many SC1 as Y1, and twice as many Y1 as KW1. We are in Florida too, so it should be the same for him.
He will need a few thumb turns in each, and a few dummy cylinders too. Latch guards, peep holes, scar plates ....
Rim cylinders I would just stock in 26D. Common SC1 and Y1, KW1 to start.
Padlocks in various price points.
Keep in mind if he is near a supply house he needs to stock less, but each trip to pick up parts is lost income.
We have two supply houses within 5 miles but stock a lot because of the above. As time goes by he will learn what he needs. Grade 1 levers, grade 2 levers, what functions sell etc. Adams Rite locks, different backsets etc.
Jim
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cledry
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by cledry » 23 Jul 2016 7:36
Silverado wrote:Looks pretty good. I am definitely ordering that pin kit. Been looking at them, and the ones I found were WAY out of my budget. That one you linked isn't really expensive.
You can't do much with that pin kit though.
Jim
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cledry
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by tpark » 23 Jul 2016 13:44
cledry wrote:Key decoders are a waste IMO. Better to buy calipers and measure the keys yourself. Not only can you measure almost any key but you can determine errors in the key.
I agree. You can get digital calipers for cheap, and they work well for key **and pin** measurement. I bought a HPC straight yoke micrometer, and the only time I use it is when setting up equipment, the rest of the time I use the calipers.
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