Ford Ranger (2002) Master Key Programming

[Headdog]

I could not find a better forum topic for my auto/truck electronic key question . . .
I have lost one of my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT keys. I cannot program a new key code without two original (pre-programmed) keys (different key codes stored in my truck's electronic memory) per the user manual and my research on the subject. The dealer wants $85 to program a key (ridiculous). I have purchased two compatible keys (with internal electronic chips) and have them already cut (they will turn the ignition and open the doors). Of course, they do not start the truck because their "codes" are not stored in the electronic memory).
I need to know how/where/who can program one of my keys into the truck (for a reasonable cost) so I will have the required two original keys. Then I will program the third key myself (to be sure both keys have different codes and are not "cloned").
Many locksmiths I have talked to do not seem to understand what I am talking about, and they want to "clone" the key I have (but I do not want that).
How do I ask for what I want, or how do I find a cheap programmer that can do what I want? What is the proper "jargon" to ask for what I want and/or know a locks smith knows just what the heck I am asking them to do? Thank you to everyone. I live near Kennedy Space Center in Florida (if you know of someone local to me).

[Squelchtone]

[EDIT: Moved from This Old Lock (where we dont talk about automotive stuff) to Key Machines and Programmers]

Locksmith members: feel free to reply if you think you can help the OP out with his question.

Thank you,
Squelchtone
Forum Admin

[GWiens2001]

That is cheaper than the programming charge at either of the two dealerships I have worked at.

Gordon

[Tyler J. Thomas]

I know what you're wanting - I have no clue why they can't comprehend? PATS I you only needed 1 of the original keys. PATS II, you're screwed without both original keys. You already know this, of course, I'm just posting this for the hell of it - someone in the future might need that info.

I would say:

"I have lost a key to my vehicle. I do not want a cloned copy of the 1 existing key. I need the car reprogrammed to remove the existing transponders and to accept the new transponders. How much do you charge?"

We have a member here, "cledry", from Orlando. He might can suggest who to use.

[mseifert]

I'm not a locksmith but isn't the correct term "originate".. i.e. - I need you to originate these keys for me ...

[Tyler J. Thomas]

I'm not a locksmith but isn't the correct term "originate".. i.e. - I need you to originate these keys for me ...

Not really. Originate implies that it would be made from what is existing. You originate keys when you impression them. If I have a SFIC and I decode the top pins, I can then originate the control key. The car key was originated by sight reading the wafers.

[Squelchtone]

This is purely anecdotal, but we have a fleet of mini buses at work and they have 7 keys programmed on the vehicle computer. Once all keys are lost (by human beings who like to lose fleet vehicle keys that they sign out), it's a huge and expensive ordeal to go dump those keys from the vehicle computer and enroll 7 new keys. I forgot if the mini buses are Ford or Chevy chassis.

Squelchtone

[ltdbjd]

Some thoughts.

I'm presuming you've tried the key and it doesn't start the car. I mention that because the 2002 Ford Ranger had an optional transponder system, even though it was shipped with a transponder key, whether it needed one or not. However, almost all V6's were equipped with an immobilizer system.

Spend the $85. It's a good price. You'd almost certainly pay more with a locksmith. I say that because almost all the locksmiths I work with (myself included) use a token based system (they are cheaper to buy that way). The locksmith has to pay around $35 dollars for every key programmed. A token based system may cost a locksmith $3500 to $4000, while an unlimited use programmer costs $8000 to $12000 (approx, depending on the manufacturer). You'll save some money since you already have a working key. Otherwise we'd either have to buy the key code, or make a key.

You can get a cheap SDD ripoff machine from overseas. But they are very limited on what they can program. The seem to run about $250, and frequently you can't get a list of what they will and won't work on. The one knockoff I used wouldn't do any of the Fords I tried it on.

If you call around to locksmiths, you'll want to find one that does automotive work. if they do auto work, they will know what you want. Just tell them you lost all your keys, you bought two new transponder keys and need them programmed into the ECU. If they ask what an ECU is, they probably don't do much auto work. The Engine Control Unit is the system that stores the electronic codes for the immobilizer system.

I don't have the info with me, but I THINK you only need to program one key to this car. I know you need two in order to use On Board Programming to add subsequent keys. Some vehicles will not allow you to only program one key, period. Again, I going from memory here, so I'd need to double check.

Hope that helps.

[Headdog]

Thank you all for your responses. I guess I am stupid and don't see where attaching a key programmer to the port in my truck is an $85+ endeavor (and no I don't have a key programmer myself).
I have thought about purchasing a key programmer (3rd party not Ford), but I am not sure that I will get the proper device since they all seem to come from China and the "eng-rish" is unclear in most cases. I think I have found one or two for $200+ that would work, but if i KNEW for sure where I could get a simpler solution (that would work on my 2002 Ranger) I would be willing to "cough up" the $85-100 for a solution that could sit in my garage in case it was needed again.
I have ONE original key and TWO newly cut keys (with unknown codes). I am not sure if the key codes are programmable (inside the keys) or the programmer just gets your truck to accept keys with different codes. Maybe someone can give me a simple "primer" on the process.
Anyway, the final solution is finding someone that will do it (close by) for a reasonable price, or locating a key-programming tool (new or used) that will allow me to do it myself. Thanks!

[mseifert]

In my experience, The dealership (Or as I have heard it called "Stealership") is always expensive .. you might look up a local locksmth.. Something tells me if they don't have to cut keys it may be cheaper.. Unless I missed somewhere that a Locksmith cant do this kind of programming..

[Squelchtone]

Thank you all for your responses. I guess I am stupid and don't see where attaching a key programmer to the port in my truck is an $85+ endeavor (and no I don't have a key programmer myself).

[Edit: Snip! Let's not get personal]

You don't see where or why it's worth $85? Alright, fair enough. Then tool up and do it yourself. Drop a few grand on programming equipment and tokens and do it yourself.

I cannot understand the logic of bickering about a professionals cost of service, no matter the trade, when you obviously need their services because you can't do it yourself.

I'll give advice all day for free but soup to nuts? You're paying. [Edit: Snip! Thats enough, you've made your point.]

[Tyler J. Thomas]

In my experience, The dealership (Or as I have heard it called "Stealership") is always expensive .. you might look up a local locksmth.. Something tells me if they don't have to cut keys it may be cheaper.. Unless I missed somewhere that a Locksmith cant do this kind of programming..

We can and $85 is not outrageous. Not at all.

If we do it, we have to go the car, hook up the equipment, spend 15 minutes interfacing with the machine and letting it do the programming. We also have to spend $13 per token. Some years, makes, models aren't uniform so we essentially have to guess to figure out which one or two or more encryption types is the right one. Each wrong guess means a token used and money spent. Granted, multiple tokens is not the norm and law of averages works out but we still have to factor that into an across the board price.

But tire kickers just see us walking out with a standalone programmer and spending 15 minutes sitting in the driver seat.

Nevermind the overhead or tokens or time spent learning how to use the equipment properly or the cost of the equipment itself or paid updates or any of that. It's literally as easy hooking it up and punching some buttons.....right.

[GWiens2001]

Am an automobile mechanic by trade. A rather experienced one at that. As a mechanic, I am paid for the work I do, not the time I spend doing it. Each job pays me 'x' dollars whether it takes me 20 minutes or all day.

I occasionally have a customer complain "Why do I have to pay you 1 1/2 hours worth of wages when it takes you only 20 minutes to do the job. My response is that it took over a decade of hard work to get skilled enough to do the job in 20 minutes. The 1.5 hours is how long the SLTS (Service Labor Time Standards) say it takes the average mechanic to do the job. A less experienced mechanic doing it for the first time may take 3 hours. Are you going to pay them double just because it takes them longer to do the same job? Of course not.

Also, mechanics have to buy their own tools. There is at least 90k-100k dollars worth of tools in my tool box. Those tools cost me money. I am not given the tools I use.

An automotive locksmith has rather high overhead. Try pricing out one of the programmers sometime.

Gordon

[ltdbjd]

Headdog, the $200ish ones are from overseas, and they don't work on very much. If you want one that WILL work, you'll need to cough up around $3,700. Those come from legitimate manufacturers/distributors. And the $3,700 is on the fairly low end.

Maybe I missed something in your original post. If you have one working key already, you can have that key cloned and it will work. I recommend you do that, because if you lose your original key, the cloned key will still work. If you keep reading, you’ll see that the two new keys you purchased cannot be used unless they are programmed to your car. You’d have to purchase a newly cloned key.

You asked for some basics about how the immobilizer system works. Here are the simplified basics ....
The keys have a "chip" in them. The chip has a preset code in it. The vehicle has an immobilizer (aka transponder) system in it. The immobilizer system reads the preset code in the key. When you turn the key in the ignition, the immobilizer system sends a signal to key. The key vomits up the code it came with. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) in the vehicle reads what code the key gave, and compares it to what it has stored in its memory. If it matches, it lets the car start. If it doesn’t match, it won’t let the car start.

Let’s say your original key has a chip with “A” as the preset code. The other lost key chip has “B” as the preset code. Again, this is a simplified version. If you put either key in the ignition, the vehicle reads the key. The key transponder chip tells the car its code is “A” or “B.” The car recognizes “A” or “B” as the proper code, and allows the car to start. (Note that some cars won’t start at all with an improper key, others will start for a few seconds and then shut off if the chip gave the wrong code).

You purchased two new transponder keys. For sake of this discussion, we’ll say those chips have been programmed with the codes of “C” and “D.” As you mentioned in your post, the key blank is cut correctly, so it opens the door and turns the ignition cylinder. But when you turn the ignition cylinder, the car won’t start. That’s because the ECU asked your new keys what their codes were, and they answered “C” and “D.” The car checked its memory and said only “A” and “B” are authorized, so it wouldn’t allow the car to start.

Take a brief side trip with me. It’s been about 12 hours since my ADHD meds, so this isn’t uncommon. If you ever need or buy a new ignition LOCK, ask for an ignition LOCK. If you ask for an ignition SWITCH, you’ll get a bunch of wires that plug in some place. No key, no keyway, no tumblers/wafers; just wires. An ignition lock and an ignition switch are two different things.

Back to your Ford ….

Generally speaking, you can’t change the code the transponder chip in the key has on it. You have to plug a programmer into the OBDII port in your car. The programmer talks to the ECU. The programmer tells the ECU that the key you are about to use will be an authorized key. The programmer then tells you (the locksmith/dealer) to insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the “on” position. Once you do, the ECU reads the code the key gives it, and puts it into its memory as a valid key. There is a delay on MOST cars. The ECU makes you wait 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes or more even WITH the programmer. This is intended as a security feature.

In your specific case, you said you have an original key. I’m assuming it starts the car. You want more keys to work your car (and you should, only having one key is bad (and expensive) if you lose it). You have a couple options.

You can have your working key cloned, and it will work. Cloning just means it’s an exact copy. So you take your original key, with the chip that has a code of “A” to a locksmith (or even some hardware stores will clone keys for you now). The person with the cloner inserts your key into the machine. The cloner reads the code that is programmed on your chip and stores it. The person with the cloner then inserts a new key with a programmable chip (not all keys have programmable chips) into the machine. The machine programs the new chip to have a code of “A.” As far as the key and car are concerned, it’s the same key. Your original key will tell the car its “A,” and the cloned key will tell the car its “A.” Both will work in the car. You can have 453 cloned keys. It doesn’t matter. They all tell the car it’s “A,” so the car starts.

One issue you personally will run into is that unless you specifically purchased a transponder key that was intended to be programmable, it won’t be. And odds are almost 100% that you don’t have a programmable key. That means the two new keys you have cannot be cloned (meaning you can’t copy the code of your original key onto your new keys). They will still have a transponder chip of “C” and “D” no matter what. So at this point, those two keys are no good to you. The only way to use your new keys is to use a programmer and tell the ECU that “C” and “D” are good keys. One you’ve had them properly programmed, THEN you can have those cloned onto a new, programmable key. But until then, they won’t start your car.

There is sometimes another option that allows you to avoid using a programmer to add new keys. This is where the “two programmed keys” come in you were referring to. Some vehicles, including yours, allow for On Board Programming (OBP). OBP permits a key to be programmed to the vehicle WITHOUT having a programmer. In the case of your car, in order to use OBP, you need to have TWO keys in your possession that have different transponder codes. For example, your “A” key and the key you lost (the “B” key). This is a security feature. You can’t have your “A” key and a cloned “A” key, because the vehicle reads them as the same key.

Not all cars have this requirement. Some makes/models allow you to program a second key with only one key. Some allow you to program a second key with a SPECIFIC single key (one that was designated as a “master” key when it came from the factory). If you received a set of keys like these when you purchased the car new, you’d get one that is a master, and then a second key. The second key won’t allow you to program new keys, even though it’s a properly programmed factory original key. Only the master key will allow you to do so. And of course, some won’t allow On Board Programming at all.

So to repeat, in order to program new keys into your car without using a programmer or a cloned key, you need two different already programmed keys. I think this is where you may be confused if I read your post correctly. You don’t have to have two keys to work your car. You only need two keys to add another key without a programmer. There are exceptions to every rule of course. To add keys to some cars, you MUST have two working keys in your possession. If you have none, then even with a programmer, the locksmith/dealer will have to make you two new keys (of course this means double the cost too).

Let’s go one more step further into this discussion. We will say your car still has A and B transponder keys programmed in it. A and B will always work. If somebody finds your B key, they can steal your car. If you find B, you can still use it in your car. Most cars will allow a person with a programmer to remove the missing key. Not all of them do, and not all programmers have this feature. Most people have asked me to remove their lost key when I program new keys into their vehicle so somebody doesn’t find the key and steal their car. Others want it left in. Usually this is when they know the key is lost in the house somewhere, but they can’t find it. If I remove it from the memory, when they find it, it won’t work. They’ll have to have me (or somebody else with a programmer) come out and program the key back into the car.

Some cars (noteably BMW) only allow a small number of keys to be programmed to it. While you can erase a lost key, that “slot” in the memory is still taken up. When you reach the maximum (usually 10), you get to buy an entire new electronic security system. Fortunately, it’s a BMW, so it would be pretty cheap. Riigghhtt …. Your Ford doesn’t have this same issue.

All of this conversation aside, there IS a way to trick your car into accepting your “C” and “D” keys into thinking they are legitimate keys, and allowing you to run the car with them. However, this defeats the entire security system. It would allow any key (metal or transponder), a picked ignition, a punched ignition, etc., to start and run your car. I cannot disclose much more about this because of the forum rules, however if you do enough internet research, you’ll come across how to do it. BUT AGAIN, THIS WOULD COMPLETELY ELIMINATE YOUR SECURITY SYSTEM, AND I REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY DON’T RECOMMEND IT.

I hope this gives you some insight into the system. Just to recap, you can take your working key and have it cloned. You can take your new keys to a locksmith or dealer and have them programmed into your car. If you have your working key and get a second key programmed into your vehicle, then you can program your third (or more) keys yourself through On Board Programming.

[ltdbjd]

Gordon, according to several classes I've attended in automotive locksmithing, the average start up cost to be an automotive locksmith is $12,000 to $15,000 in tools and equipment (at least it was that much 5 years ago). This is JUST for automotive work. It does not include your vehicle, your basic hand and power tools, and all your other locksmith tools. That's why I'm not a full service automotive locksmith. I cannot afford or recoup the costs of a high security sidewinder key duplicator machine and a high security sidewinder key code cutting machine. If was back in southern CA I could, but not in the middle of nowhere, Wyoming. Which by the way, is EVERYWHERE in Wyoming.

You are correct, if I'm going to spend $4,000 on a programmer, and have to pay $40 to the manufacturer every time I use it, I have to recoup my costs, plus make a profit to live on. If I have to originate a key and use a VIN to Code company, that's another $20 to $50 out of pocket. Right off the bat, I'm in the hole roughly $75. I have to recoup that cost, plus part of the cost of my programmer, plus make a profit. So it isn't cheap.

I'm pretty sure auto mechanics are like locksmiths. You'll never find a rich locksmith. People question why we charge so much [as I think to myself, "charge too much??" Have you ever had a plumber out after hours or on weekends???]. We have a lot of expenses, plus need to make a profit to feed our families.

Like you, if I charge $X for a lockout, it doesn't matter if I get in under 30 seconds, or 30 minutes. You don't get a discount because I'm good at my job, and you don't pay more because I'm bad at it. You are paying me for my knowledge, education, experience to get you in.

I'll go off topic here for a second because I want to rant a little. I recently bought a new smoker. It had rave reviews. But one bonehead wrote a crappy review. His contention was that he was ripped off because he paid a lot of money, and could have built one for a lot cheaper. I'm sure you could have. And you could have fixed your car for cheaper than the mechanic, got into your house for cheaper than the locksmith, repaired your plumbing for cheaper than the plumber, rewired your new circuit in your house for cheaper than the electrician. Cost isn't based upon how much YOU could do it for. You are paying for somebody elses knowledge, education, exeperience, tools, equipment, and the ability for them to relieve you of the hassle and headache of doing the job yourself.

So now I'll get off my soapbox and get ready for dinner. As a side note, it's important for me to say that I'm speaking in general terms. These comments are not directed at the original post.