32768 wrote:You mean drill a hole in the frame next to the latch to try to push the bolt in? I dunno if that's going to do it- they say there's a bolt on the hinge side as well. I guess it could still be spring-loaded. It's probably worth a try anyway. I'm coming at this from a hobbiest point of view. I understand how the lock works, but I don't know much yet about how the lock is connected to the bolts that hold the door shut. I think that linkage is the best place to attack this cabinet. I'd hoped from what attila_8_7_8_7 wrote earlier that there wasn't a back cover over the locking mechanism, but the photo shows that everything's closed up. Do you think the hole in the photo is for the change key? If so, that's a possible way to go.
attila_8_7_8_7, when you say you can see the wheel moving when you turn the dial, what do you mean? The brass circle in your photo?
where is the change mark on the dial ?
i missed that bolt on the hinge side post
given that info it prolly isn't a spring loaded latch catching on the frame. (assuming that is actually a bolt on the hinge side)
If someone paid me to open that cabinet without completely destroying it
I would drill a 3/8 hole 1/8 " due east from the dial because i am now assuming it is mounted to the right.
i would drill through the door and into the front of the pack until i could see inside,
if i did not see the nut that fastens the bolt to the rake i would go another 1/8 and so on until i found it.
drill the nut and scratch back the bolt
open it take the pack off
screw 1/4 20 self tapping into the 3/8 holes and then grind them off
repaint it
reinstall pack