Centurion deposit Corp 2 door safe. unknown combo (pics)

[knickericker]

This safe was most likely installed by the original tenant in 1992, but I can't find anything about the mfg other then a lawsuit from like 85.

Last tenant never knew the combo, so this hasn't been opened in 11+ years.

Top lock has some pretty loud wheels in it. I can hear them over the sound 15 people in the bar, the kitchen radio, the jukebox, and the cook cleaning the kitchen.

Is this something a novice could try to crack?

[kwoswalt99-]

Looks you have some S&G locks on there, so no, not something a novice could do. Best bet would be a locksmith, or bust it open yourself.

[Squelchtone]

Looks you have some S&G locks on there, so no, not something a novice could do. Best bet would be a locksmith, or bust it open yourself.

Hey kwos is it just me or does the top one look like an S&G 8500 Group 1R where the dial pushes in and clicks or am I thinking of a different model?

OP: if it really is a Group 1R rated lock, most safe technicians wont be able to crack it, they'll have to drill and scope the safe so def not a novice job.

EDIT: it might be a D022 dial and R162 dial ring in black and white on a Group 2 6700 lock if the dial does not push in when dialed to 0 but that still means its not easily crackable just easier for an expert

Squelchtone

[kwoswalt99-]

Looks you have some S&G locks on there, so no, not something a novice could do. Best bet would be a locksmith, or bust it open yourself.

Hey kwos is it just me or does the top one look like an S&G 8500 Group 1R where the dial pushes in and clicks or am I thinking of a different model?

OP: if it really is a Group 1R rated lock, most safe technicians wont be able to crack it, they'll have to drill and scope the safe so def not a novice job.

Squelchtone

Yep, I think you're right.

[cledry]

Group 2 both. One has possibly been previously drilled.

[Squelchtone]

is it just me or did someone remove the hinge bolts thinking they could remove the door once that was done? find them and put them back in unless you want a safe door landing on your foot once you open it

[kwoswalt99-]

Group 2 both. One has possibly been previously drilled.

How do you know?

[cledry]

Group 2 both. One has possibly been previously drilled.

How do you know?

How do I know what?

[Squelchtone]

Group 2 both. One has possibly been previously drilled.

How do you know?

How do I know what?

Pretty simple question, how do you know both are group 2 and one may be drilled? Dave mcomie book? Past on the job experience? I dont think he's questioning you, just wants to know what knowledge you used to come to that answer.

Im also curious and always eager to learn more so I dont talk out of my as$.

Thank you,
Squelchtone

[cledry]

Group 2 both. One has possibly been previously drilled.

How do you know?

Pretty simple question, how do you know both are group 2 and one may be drilled? Dave mcomie book? Past on the job experience? I dont think he's questioning you, just wants to know what knowledge you used to come to that answer.

Im also curious and always eager to learn more so I dont talk out of my as$.

Thank you,
Squelchtone

I wasn't sure which part of my comment he was asking about, that is why I asked.

Well, I say this because they have different dials on the same safe it might be a fair to assume one is original and one has been pulled to drill and replaced. If just the lock had needed replacing one normally uses the old dial and ring. When drilling pulling the dial is the norm which destroys it. So I concluded from past experience that one might find under the dial a previous repair. I have seen some repairs that made it easier to open a safe and some that made it more difficult so it may or may not help get the safe open.

As for both being Group 2 I would again just say that it is highly unlikely on such a safe that someone would use a Group 1. Anyone that has the slightest knowledge of Group 1 locks would know why. That reason is that they are notoriously unforgiving by design to any dialing inaccuracy. Anyone that has watched a restaurant worker or such dialing a Group 2 lock would know it would be asking for trouble to supply a Group 1. A Group 2 will give you a 2.5" spread on which to dial, the Group 1 is only 1 digit.

My thoughts would be to rip it out and replace with a new safe. Getting both open will likely cost $700 minimum. Unless you needed a dual container you could buy a single drop safe for less, perhaps half as much if you find a used one.

If this was a TL30 or better I would say of course it is a Group 1, even many TL15 only use a Group 2.

[knickericker]

Top dial is ilco unican, bottom is amesc

Neither seams to have a point where it pushes in any more then any other point

And yes, someone thought that removing the bolts would get the safe open, the bolts have been missing for as long as my boss has leased this space, so theres no finding them, just replacing them...

[billdeserthills]

Top dial is ilco unican, bottom is amesc

Neither seams to have a point where it pushes in any more then any other point

And yes, someone thought that removing the bolts would get the safe open, the bolts have been missing for as long as my boss has leased this space, so theres no finding them, just replacing them...

Then both dials have been replaced at some time in the past, I would think
you do mean the bottom dial says 'Amsec'??

The top dial is simply a 'spyproof' model