Rekeyed deadbolt, now it is hard to turn

[Guppy]

I rekeyed a KW1 deadbolt and now it works but there is considerable resistance when turning it. The pins I used are doomed on both ends. The pins that came out were flat on one end. Could the pins be a problem?

[mseifert]

I am not an expert but if the pin extend out the of the core even the slight bit it will cause brag.. Also if you wiped all the grease/oil out you may consider a little lube

[74TR6]

My guess is that one of the pins you installed is a bit too long. Pull the core and check each pin; they can not extend above the core by any amount. Have had the same problem when I rekeyed a KW1 too quickly; found one pin that needed to be dropped one step. Problem solved Is your pin set .003" or .005" increments?

[billdeserthills]

If your lock is dragging because a pin is too high there should be impressioning marks upon your key, should be easy to see

[Guppy]

My guess is that one of the pins you installed is a bit too long. Pull the core and check each pin; they can not extend above the core by any amount. Have had the same problem when I rekeyed a KW1 too quickly; found one pin that needed to be dropped one step. Problem solved Is your pin set .003" or .005" increments?

Sorry, I dont follow you. My lock is KW1 with 5 pins. I believe they increment .024" between each step.
.171"
.195"
.219"
.240"
.264
.288"

I ordered new set of pins, these are colored (idiot proof).

[74TR6]

Correct on the KW1 pins. There are repin sets for Kwikset locks having only the pins for them. And there are multi lock repin sets that cover Kwikset and a few other brands; cover wide range of pins and increment by .003 or .005. Did not know from which type set you were working. One set I use covers .175 to .360 in steps of .005 with chart for Kwikset; another, smaller set is Kwikset having only the pins you listed.

Have you checked the current pins? First guess is a pin that is a bit tall in the core; as mentioned, you may see marks to help locate it. Is the key you are using an original or a recently cut duplicate?

[GWiens2001]

Also, it is fairly safe to assume you removed the lock. Did you remove the bolt?

Quick check - does the key work normally if you have the door open? (I am checking to see if the bolt is binding in the strike). The above answers of a likely too-long key pin (or key that is not cut deeply enough) is the most likely cause, but if the key works smoothly when the door is open, then you should look at the bolt. If the lock still binds when the door is open, then it is not the bolt.

Gordon

[RumballSolutions]

Also, it is fairly safe to assume you removed the lock. Did you remove the bolt?

Quick check - does the key work normally if you have the door open? (I am checking to see if the bolt is binding in the strike). The above answers of a likely too-long key pin (or key that is not cut deeply enough) is the most likely cause, but if the key works smoothly when the door is open, then you should look at the bolt. If the lock still binds when the door is open, then it is not the bolt.

Gordon

Unless the two halves of the deadbolt are misaligned or the mounting screws have been over tightened......both of these can cause tailpiece binding and make the key feel "sticky" with the door open or closed.

[ltdbjd]

This is an issue with the cheaper locks. You have listed the standard KW pin lengths, but due to differing tolerances that occur during manufacturing the lock, these could be too long or to short. It's not uncommon. The domed vs flat edge of the pins doesn't have anything to do with the issue.

You'll need to pull the plug and take a close look at it. Run a pick across the top of the pins. If you feel the pick lift over a pin, it's too long. If you feel it dip down, the pin is too short. If you have a good eye, you can hold the plug up to the light as look across the top of the pins. You may be able to see the issue.

If you do a lot of this, you can purchase a plug holder. When you rotate the plug in the holder, you'll notice any issues with the pins

If you don't have other sized pins, or can't get any from a local locksmith, you'll have to improvise. Bear in mind some people don't like these ideas. But if it's all you have, and it works, then I say go for it.

If the pin is too long, you can use a fine toothed file and file it down. As you run the file across the top of the plug, you'll see it mark a pin that's too high.

If it's too short, you can use a bottom pin turned upside down as a top pin (so the pointed side points towards the keyway). This allows the sloped side to ride up the edge of the chamber when it rotates. Or you can file down the plug slightly around that chamber, but if you file too much, it will be the same as the pin being too long and the lock will be trash.

[Squelchtone]

Not sure why this is in Ask Beginner Hobby Lockpicking Questions, moving it to This Old Lock.

Squelchtone

[tpark]

1) take the cylinder out, and make sure that that's where the friction problem is - if it's an existing installation, things like overlength tailpieces and inaccuracies in the mounting holes can cause problems. Sometimes you can reposition the lock slightly, retighten, and it's good. If the core is stiff, and you've got the cylinder out, pull the plug out and look for overheight pins. Of course, if it's dragging, turn it a bit, give it a slight tap with a screwdriver handle, and file the marks, same as if you were impressioning. Sometimes loosening the screws and pushing the lock up or down can make the lock work smoothly if the core is OK.

[woodfamily]

If you didn't feel drag when you reassembled the cylinder into the cylinder housing then it could be the cylinder cap being too tight. Loosen it off a space.