Is there a trick to this BEST padlock?

[Eazy123]

Wow, that's really seen some elements! Was it difficult for you to get open?

Also, I'm assuming you made those keys yourself? Was it a pain for you without being able to see the upper shear line? I ask because I did the same last weekend with two keys that I made for a Corbin Russwin IC, but the upper shearline on those rotate out so it was easy to see it and make a control key for it.

[tpark]

Wow, that's really seen some elements! Was it difficult for you to get open?

Also, I'm assuming you made those keys yourself? Was it a pain for you without being able to see the upper shear line? I ask because I did the same last weekend with two keys that I made for a Corbin Russwin IC, but the upper shearline on those rotate out so it was easy to see it and make a control key for it.

Actually I didn't spend all that much time on it, I had a number of locks, so I just had to find one where all the pins moved freely.
The seller said they were from a navy ship - salt water is very harsh on everything, so it's not surprising that they were gummed up. I chose a likely candidate, and applied a liberal amount of WD-40. After getting one core out, I dumped the core into a decoding block and measured the pins. I then cut keys for both shear lines and control keys. Some cores came right out, others required a liberal amount of lubrication and numerous operations with both operating keys before the control key would turn - I'm sure I was clearing out the grime in the lock. To pull some of the cores where I could turn the control key, but not pull the core, I used a combination of penetrating oil and a hammer and vice grips. There were a few which seemed totally impossible to me - one of them the pins were seized to the point where I couldn't lift one with a 25 thou hook, and some of them would operate, but the control sleeve wouldn't budge. I sent the duds off to a locksmith/hobbyist who offered to have a go at getting the cores out.

I cut the keys myself using the information decoded from the core, so I didn't need to see the shear line.

[Eazy123]

Oh, you have a decoding block. Would you say it's a necessity for someone who would only use it a couple of times? I'd like to make keys for this one when I finally get it but I can't see doing so very often.

[tpark]

Oh, you have a decoding block. Would you say it's a necessity for someone who would only use it a couple of times? I'd like to make keys for this one when I finally get it but I can't see doing so very often.

The issue with decoding the core is that you need additional supplies/tools if you want to put it back together. If you have it picked to control, you may be able to figure out the stack height at control by probing the pins through the holes at the bottom, and make a control key using that information. The old cores are riveted together, so you can't disassemble them, even if you have it picked. To put the pins back in, you need new springs (since driving the pins out squashes the springs) and new caps. To cap the core, you need a capping block to set the caps properly. I like the LAB Annex, it does a good job. It is a combination decoding block/capping tool. I think the cost of the equipment is prohibitive if you're only doing this as a hobby - it might be better to keep the core out as a souvenir for picking practice, and purchase a combinated core and keys. You can search on eBay for sfic cores, or sometimes these show up as trade items on message boards like this one.

[Eazy123]

Thanks for the info. What's the difference between the annex and this (which I've seen for $85)?

https://www.lockpickshop.com/LT340.html

Also couldn't one remove one cap at a time, dump the pins and decode that way?

[tpark]

Thanks for the info. What's the difference between the annex and this (which I've seen for $85)?

https://www.lockpickshop.com/LT340.html

Also couldn't one remove one cap at a time, dump the pins and decode that way?

That looks like it would work, and it's cheaper than the Annex. I don't have that tool, so I don't know how well it really works. Yes, you can do one cap at a time, I've done that too - just do one at a time, that way there's less risk of mixing up pins. I have a Pro-Lok padlock drill jig which has been fine, but all my IC stuff is either A1 or LAB. I only suggest the annex because I have it and can vouch for it working well. The A1 core decoding tool works well, but my A1 capping tool doesn''t seat the caps as nicely as the Annex, but it works. Perhaps other forum users have the Pro-Lok IC tool and can give you better feedback.

[GWiens2001]

I can vouch for the Annex.

Gordon

[Eazy123]

Thanks guys. I'd like to learn decoding and working with more IC cores down the line so maybe I'll ask for the annex for my birthday in a couple of months. I still have a few locks to pick and master in the meantime.

[JSwistak]

I recently was able to get a used Lab annex on eBay for $69.00. I like Lab annex much better than the pro-lock LT340 dump tool.

[Eazy123]

I recently was able to get a used Lab annex on eBay for $69.00. I like Lab annex much better than the pro-lock LT340 dump tool.

Holy cow, what was wrong with it?!

[Eazy123]

Ok, I'm checking back in on this in hopes there might be some other advice. I have to have spent over a couple of dozen hours on this since my last try - a shade over 9 hours this weekend alone. I've SPP'd, raked, used regular tension tools, IC tension tools (even modified one of them to fit better in the keyway), used TOK, BOK, heavy tension, light tension...

These pins bind, but I can't even really feel when I set one because they're so mushy. And if I turn the plug counterclockwise afterwards to reset, I hear like 4-5 pins drop so they get up there, I just get zero click or plug rotation like with all of my other locks. I'm not drilling out the control lug - I can't quit, lol - but this is driving me insane!!!

[JSwistak]

I recently was able to get a used Lab annex on eBay for $69.00. I like Lab annex much better than the pro-lock LT340 dump tool.

Holy cow, what was wrong with it?!

Nothing it is in very good condition, I think the reason it went so cheap, the seller did not have a very good title or description. I kinda found it by accident and scooped it up.

[RedE]

I recently was able to get a used Lab annex on eBay for $69.00. I like Lab annex much better than the pro-lock LT340 dump tool.

Holy cow, what was wrong with it?!

Nothing it is in very good condition, I think the reason it went so cheap, the seller did not have a very good title or description. I kinda found it by accident and scooped it up.

$69 is a very good deal for an Annex. Think I paid about $150 for mine a ways back. It's not really like they wear out unless you manage to crack it. eBay sellers do seem to miss out on sales by mislabeling their items. I've seen a silca bravo go for $175 and a Best key combinator go for $99... way under their market value IMO.