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by pcm81 » 6 Aug 2016 19:10
I am trying to learn how to cut keys using a key duplicator, in fully manual mode and a set of space and depth keys. I get acceptable results, but not great. I end up with many uneven "tails" between the cuts which i have to manually trim off. In some cases i am making a pretty radical biting, however all of it is within MACS. Should I be expecting to have to manually trim off tails that sometimes form between the cuts or am i doing something wrong, technique wise?
The space and depth keys i have for schlage have a flat at the bottom of each cut, should i be tracing out just the flat or also the ramps to the left and the right of the flat with the tip of the guide? I am using Hudson BW-598 with stock blade.
Even though, the couple keys i cut so far are functional, I am just trying to make sure not to pick up any bad habits.
What level of precision should i expect from a set-up like mine? Most of the cuts are within 1-3 thousandths at the cut itself, but the ramps between the cuts look ugly. Any technique advice or should i simply expect to need to go over the ramps by hand to smooth them out after the key is cut?
I basically cut all spaces to the shallowest cut and then progress to deeper cuts on the spaces that need be cut deeper.
Thanks ahead.
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pcm81
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by GWiens2001 » 6 Aug 2016 19:14
It takes practice.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by pcm81 » 6 Aug 2016 19:30
GWiens2001 wrote:It takes practice.
Gordon
That's why i got 50 SC1 and 50x KW1 blanks  Just want to make sure not to pick up bad habits on the way...
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pcm81
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by Michelin Man » 4 Nov 2016 4:47
Hope it's not too late to reply here.
Using space and depth keys with a single angle cutter can be done. If you can align the key opposite to how you normally do you can remove the straight up angles (I think they're called hookers) by cutting them the other way and having the angled part of the cutter give you a 'ramp' for the pins to slide past. Either that or just mount it in the jaw and do it manually.
For example the Foley Belsaw model 200 comes with 3 different cutters, but the 2 I will talk about is the duplication cutter and code cutter. The duplication cutter has a flat side and an angled cutter side. The code cutter has a V shaped cutter and basically will cut both angles when you rock the key back and forth in the correct cut.
HPC also make a dual angle cutter conversion kit for the Speedex series and similar designs such as the 008, KEIL, Cole and etc.
So basically a dual angle cutter will be easier to use for using space and depth keys.
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Michelin Man
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by GWiens2001 » 28 Dec 2016 20:07
 Here in the United States, "hookers" means something slightly different. It is a slang term for a prostitute.  Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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GWiens2001
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by tpark » 28 Dec 2016 20:47
If you cut the flat parts on the bottom of the cuts, then carefully file the ramps, you can get good results. For the factory cut look, if you have depth keys with full ramps (i,e. they're only cut on odd or even depths) it's easy, since the cutter is guided through the whole cut. I only have duplication type cutters on my machines, but I've had good luck making keys with them.
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by tpark » 18 Jan 2017 9:43
err, "spaces" - I reread what I wrote, and what I meant to say was if you have depth keys that have a cut for alternate pins (i.e. pins 1,3,5 or 2,4,6) you can use the ramp to join to the next pin.
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